I cranked out a small batch with my new Lee OO buckshot mould this afternoon. Like all of their 6-cavity moulds, it takes a while to come up to temperature and cutting the sprues can takes some effort. I found that running with the lead hot and cutting as soon as the puddle solidified on the last cavity made it a LOT easier. Within a few minutes I was banging out six strings of 3 pellets pretty easily. I stopped after a small batch (250 good ones) because the bolt for the sprue plate was coming loose. After they cooled, I tried several ways of separating the pellets and found the best way was to twist them apart by hand. With WW alloy, it was pretty easy - I imagine softer lead might not separate as easily that way. I measured a half dozen with dial calipers and they measured 0.333 and were pretty uniform. I put them into the rubber drum of my Chicago rock tumbler and ran them for 30 minutes without graphite or other additives. They came out SUPER shiny and smooth with little trace where they were joined! You do get a small flat spot where the sprue plate cuts but the other joints are very small. I imagine you could just twist them apart and load them, but they sure are purdy all shined up like that. I can't wait to load some up and give it a try!
Review of Lee OO buckshot mould
- Thread starter Navy_Guns
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USSR
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Too bad Lee doesn't make that mould in single aught size. The slightly smaller size allows you to nest them 3 to a tier using regular shot cups. I use the Lee .319 mould, and they just fit in the shotcup. Their .311 mould would probably be even better.
Don
Don
dogrunner
Member
I use that .311 in .12 in an heirloom antique BP of mine.
Quick hint............run your furnace temp as high as it'l go.........pure lead castings will come out bright and shiny...........the lower range...7 to 8 work good for wheelweights & various alloys but the pure stuff will look and cast a LOT better at the higher temp..
Proved that very thing to myself yesterday with a coffee can now full of bright and shiny Maxi balls that prior to the full temp route neither completely filled out and appeared mottled....
Quick hint............run your furnace temp as high as it'l go.........pure lead castings will come out bright and shiny...........the lower range...7 to 8 work good for wheelweights & various alloys but the pure stuff will look and cast a LOT better at the higher temp..
Proved that very thing to myself yesterday with a coffee can now full of bright and shiny Maxi balls that prior to the full temp route neither completely filled out and appeared mottled....
Lloyd Smale
Member
try casting a bit faster. Just to the point where it about wants to smear lead on top the mold. I use bullshop mold lube on the spruce plate and the top of the mold to keep lead smears from sticking. If you cast faster like that most of the shot will fall apart and not need to have the sticks trimmed.
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