A different break-in question - really!

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zkurtb

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Ok, Ok, I know barrel break-in has been discussed and debated ad nauseum.

This is NOT another should-a-barrel-be-broken-in thread.

Assume for a moment that a standard factory barrel (Rem/Win/Sav/etc) has some burrs and etc and that it will fire better (less fouling, possibly better accuracy) when these get smoothed.

That being the case, for a brand new never fired rifle, would it make sense to pre-polish the bore, say with JB, or perhaps even a mild lapping (starting with 400 or 600 grit) and then polishing, prior to ever firing it? Would this help smooth the bore much like firing it does, but without having to go thru the fire/clean cycles? If so it could save much time and money (a little polish is cheaper than 50 rounds).

I admit it - I'm one of those who can see the benefit of shoot/clean/shoot/clean for a new barrel. IF we can agree this may be a good thing, then why not pre-break-in via mild lapping or polishing? Seems to me that would be easier than the myriad cleanings needed in the "standard" break-in procedures.

And if you were to pre-break-in, how would you go about it? Hand lapping starting with 600 or 800 grit, or just go with something like JB?

As stated, this thread is not another debate on whether break-in makes sense. so please, lets not get into that debate. Just curious, for those who think break-in makes sense, whether it could be accelerated and simplified by first polishing or mild lapping.
 
you aren't the first person I've heard posit that Idea. I've heard of some that actually do it, and I can understand the point but would be worried about the chance of uneven lapping.
 
My rifle builder uses JB on a tight patch and scrubs the barrel about 50 in and out strokes after he has reamed the chamber and pulled the barrel up on the receiver. Then it is cleaned with a good solvent before firing, then clean after each shot. Usually about 8 rounds later you dont get anymore copper out when you clean.
 
I've done it on several factory rifles. It gave me the same result as break-in: it didn't hurt anything, but it didn't really help anything either.
 
My experience is stainless steel barrels benefit the most from some sort of barrel break in period and the results mainly apply to ease and quality of cleaning more than increasing any accuracy potential of the barrel in question.
 
I am going to use the Tubbs "final finish" break in bullets for next rifle. davidtubb.com
for a factory barrel I think it's worth speeding up the process of smoothing out the throat and barrel if you want to be shooting bullseyes right away, but either way you are going to get there just by shooting.
 
Mouthin off

I am in no way an expert on this, but after spending a ton of money on a custom barrel and chambering.. I asked Dan at One Hole Gun Works, "ok, now how do I break it in ?

He printed out the break in instructions from the Barrel Maker.. I did exactly as they stated, and well.... 100yds, group size .264.... I'm good...

I will do what he says....

http://www.riflebarrels.com/support/centerfire_maintenance.htm
 
zkurtb, I have no hesitancy in using Flitz for initial cleaning (scrubbing) of factory barrels. I'd do some serious research before using anything more aggressive.
 
Since time is money in the US of A, and familiarization/execution is key to success in the army, I would tend to think your time and money would be better spent on shooting the weapon to break it in, YMMV. Shoot, shoot, shoot, a man can never shoot enough!
 
Al Thompson said:
I have no hesitancy in using Flitz for initial cleaning (scrubbing) of factory barrels. I'd do some serious research before using anything more aggressive.
^ This...with emphasis on the "Factory Barrel" part.

:)
 
Since time is money in the US of A, and familiarization/execution is key to success in the army, I would tend to think your time and money would be better spent on shooting the weapon to break it in, YMMV. Shoot, shoot, shoot, a man can never shoot enough!

This! ^
 
I thought I was the only person who does that. I always do a fine lapping on new ones. My rifle are all extremely acurate and I didn't have to go through the first patches hanging up on the burrs in the bore. I also thouroughly clean the lug recesses and dip the bolt in either pure acetone or denatured alcohol. It's surprising how much metal shavings come out of those new ones. Usually the chambers are nicely polished on the ones I've bought so I haven't had to do anything to them.
 
I am going to use the Tubbs "final finish" break in bullets for next rifle. davidtubb.com
for a factory barrel I think it's worth speeding up the process of smoothing out the throat and barrel if you want to be shooting bullseyes right away, but either way you are going to get there just by shooting.

How much benefit does Mr. Tubb promise for non-world-class shooters if they use his magic break-in product?

Have a look at the following link - an attempt to objectively quantify various steps to improve accuracy, including the Tubbs fire-lapping system.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/affordable_accuracy.htm
 
From the aforementioned link http://www.riflebarrels.com/support/...aintenance.htm
"For an effective break-in the barrel should be cleaned after every shot for the first 10-12 rounds or until copper fouling stops. Our procedure is to push a cotton patch that is wet with solvent through the barrel. This will remove much of the powder fouling and wet the inside of the barrel with solvent. Next, wet a bronze brush with solvent and stroke the barrel 5-10 times. Follow this by another wet patch and then one dry patch. Now soak the barrel with a strong copper removing solvent until all of the blue mess is removed from the barrel."


This is what prompted my initial question - wouldn't minor lapping with, say 800 grit, and/or bore polishing with JB/Flitz/etc actually be easier and faster to initially smooth the bore than the above-described cleaning process that has to be repeated many times over?

Since time is money in the US of A, and familiarization/execution is key to success in the army, I would tend to think your time and money would be better spent on shooting the weapon to break it in, YMMV. Shoot, shoot, shoot, a man can never shoot enough!

And if initial bore polishing would be faster and easier than the shoot/clean cycles, I'd save time and get to real shooting sooner. And I'd think a little JB or Flitz would save significant $$ over 50-100 rounds of, say, 30-06, plus the cost of cleaning fluids/patches/etc.
 
What bullets do you want to use to break those burrs? Solids will knock them down quick, but most solids are all copper (except cast) and they will leave copper smears on the rougher surfaces. The bitch is that the tooling marks are not even, so the gritty bits will get more stuck in the rough patches. How long before the barrel is down to all steel with nothing stuck anywhere?

On old black barrels I have been known to use Ajax cleanser and low power loads. The cleanser goes down the bore pre-wet with Windex and then a round follows. After about 5 rounds, things get quite shiny - but these are old beater bores. I would not do that to a new gun :(
 
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