Trigger pin removal tips?

Remove them left to right, also, there is often a clip or spring end on a groove in the pin just inside the frame.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that gun has to be done "left to right" and re-installed right to left. Also if I'm remembering correctly (and I may not be) I think it's one of those you disassemble inside a freezer bag because the trigger spring likes to go SPROING and vanish into the atmosphere.

A good bench a good bench block,

and then

The harder the pin is to move, use shorter pin punches.

When I have a hard pin to move I start with a punch that is shorter then 1/4 inch, after the pin has moved I move up in length.

The pin in the KAHR K9's I have wroked on are tight from start to finish, Drive from left to right, try to only drive that pin far enough to get the trigger spring and the part that comes out with it free but leave the trigger still captive on the pin.

Then you can work on the trigger bar and it is not that hard to put back together.

You might need a type of drift pin, help me out guys, that has a ball in the end of the drift pin, possibly the pin is a roller type pin? I helped a friend take a trig apart, thats what we needed. Hope this helps.

the pin in question is a solid pin.

The left end may be slightly rounded so a cupped end punch could be used, but I have found for myself that short punches to get it started give me the needed control of the punch, along with the power to make the pin move at first.

Is the pin flush, proud (protrudes) or sunk in the hole? Sunk is easiest since the sides of the hole line the punch up. Proud is a little harder, but it allows a larger diameter punch (a huge bolt with a concave end, in the case of my FN HP) to be used to break the initial friction, or until the pin is flush with the hole.

Flush is hardest. Follow all the tips and tricks posted previously.

I can't say whether lubricants work or not, it may be case-to-case. But they can't hurt, expecially if you have the leisure (and patience) to let them work over time.