Smith 686-6 won't reliably set off primers.

That gunsmith was either incompetent or dishonest

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He was incompetent

If he was dishonest he would have tightened the strain screw AND the firing pin...thus making you think he fixed the problem with the more expensive repair.

This way he just looks like he doesn't know what he is doing. (which is accurate)

It would be the last time I ever used that gunsmith.

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Some "gunsmiths" commonly back off the strain screw as part of their "Custom Action Job"!!

The fact of the matter is, it is not a trigger pull adjustment screw, and if backed off far enough will cause mis-fires, and can even cause the hammer to lock up tighter then a gnats pattotie.

rc

I think anyone who shoots needs to find a reliable gunsmith in their area. Like anything, the more a gun is shot the more likely you are to need adjustments from time to time. Good gunsmiths take pride in their reputation and workmanship.

needs to find a reliable gunsmith in their area.

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That is sometimes far easier said then done when it comes to revolver work.

In this area, it seems everyone with a claw hammer & punch set is beating together AR-15 parts kits and calling themselves gunsmiths!

rc

First make sure you have a factory standard mainspring and thet the mainspring strain screw is fully tightened into the frame. I would also suggest that you install either an Apex or Cylinder & Slide extra long firing pin. If you are reloading and using CCI primers then stop and switch to Federal primers - CCI primers have the hardest primer cups and Federals the softest.

That is sometimes far easier said then done when it comes to revolver work.

In this area, it seems everyone with a claw hammer & punch set is beating together AR-15 parts kits and calling themselves gunsmiths!

rc

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The problem is that the known good ones are all stacked up with so much work that it's literally months just to get some simple work done.

Which is why I'm more than happy to use my lifetime of metal working skills and learn some gun specific skills to do my own work. So far I've had MOSTLY good success other than on one part, which turned out to be easily replaced. But I tend to jump into the deep end of the pool with an anchor attached

For most other folks if they are at all handy and are willing to do the research before digging into the gun and go carefully and ask I suspect that much of their own minor work can be done without risk.

For you guys wondering, what these guys are calling a "strain screw" or tension screw is located at the bottom of the front grip strap. Gunsmith should have caught it, it depends a little on what grips or stocks are on the gun.
Did you ask him what was wrong or did you tell him you needed a new hammer? These old crabby gunsmiths are a proddy bunch. He might have just give you what you asked for.

Just FWIW, the strain screw is NOT, repeat NOT, intended to adjust the trigger pull. Its purpose is to allow strain to be taken off the mainspring and hammer when taking the gun down. If the mainspring is not relaxed before removing the sideplate, too much strain is placed on one side of the hammer stud and it can break.

Jim

it depends a little on what grips or stocks are on the gun.

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Well, it seems to me if the "gunsmith" charged him $50 bucks for a new firing pin?

He had to take the grips off.
To get the side plate off.
To get the old firing pin out.
To put a new firing pin in.

Maybe he just plum forgot to tighten the strain screw after he put it back together?
Or maybe he didn't do anything except write the bill for $50 bucks.

rc

I guess if you have to take the hammer out to press the roll pin out. Unless its one of the new ones w/ frame mounted firing pin, in which case who cares.
Told you they were cranky.

Seems to me to be a lot of gunsmith bashing when no one knows all the facts.
First was the firing pin hammer mounted or frame mounted?
Most smiths have a minimum charge of one hour shop rate. The gun was to be logged in, the repair performed, then logged out.

Backing off the strain screw a quarter or half turn, or even shortening the screw has been common practice with S&W shooters for many years.

send it to S&W or try a Wolff spring kit....http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=3&mID=58

my 686-6 is all factory and i have never had any light strikes......

Quote:

>Backing off the strain screw a quarter or half turn, or even shortening the screw has been common practice with S&W shooters for many years. <

Just because it's common practice doesn't make it the right practice. Neither is grinding off the nose to shorten it.

The strain screw isn't there to adjust the trigger pull.

Point of order here and for future reference S&W pays for postage to and from the factory for warranty repairs,all you have to do is call and they will send you a prepaid UPS or FedEx label.

Walkalong...even going with a lighter rebound spring has its limits. No problem until you start doing some fast DA drills and your finger outruns the trigger...and locks the gun up until you stop and completely release the trigger to let everything reset. A non-issue on the range, but in a bad situation, it could get a body killed.

World-class champion wheelgun speedster Jerry Mickulek installs heavier rebound springs in some of his revolvers for that very reason.

For we mere mortals, I choose the heaviest of the three springs (15 pound) in the Wolff kit and change it out periodically if the gun is shot much. Ditto for the mainspring.

In my case I went with the 13 lb rebound spring and even then cut a couple of coils off it to futher lighten the trigger.

BUT... I fully recognized from playing with the trigger with the side plate off that this lengthened the time it takes to push the trigger back forward. If it ever becomes a problem I'll go for a bit more preload pressure to obtain a snappier return. But likely it'll never become an issue since I'm SO far from being able to shoot like Jerry And since all my handguns are strictly for range play it's not an issue for defensive reliability.

BC..Ya don't need to run one as fast as Jerry to have the trigger reset cause a stoppage.

Ah! Didn't see that part. That's what I get for bein' in a rush.

I dont fool with the trigger rebound spring, at all. Shortening the main spring tension screw, is well, just don't. If you decide to play with it, you can shave the sides of the main spring, 1/16" each side, 1/8th total, because of tempering, go slow,it has to be smooth, any scratch in surface can cause the spring to crack right there. Like scribing glass before you break it off. Test frequently with hard primers, as you go. Once you get it fine tuned, its only good for that hammer. A different weight hammer will need a different spring. If you hose up a main spring they're like $8. If you decide to go back to full power, put in new spring. If you replace a bobbed hammer, for a horned one, get a new spring too.
If you replace a service hammer for a target get a new spring

Be prepared for it to affect the timing. Its best if all springs are at full power.
and just polish the bearing points, Lube with Gunslick.

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>Be prepared for it to affect the timing.<

Nah. Springs won't affect timing. Time...yes. Timing...no.

Time is a function of speed and distance, while timing is mechanically fixed, and the timed event will occur when it's supposed to...assuming that nothing is badly worn...regardless of how fast or slow the cycle is made.

I had a similar problem with S&W Mod 60. It would misfire 40% of the time. Sent it to S&W TWICE, they changed all parts even remotely relevant for the problem. Also, added back the IL I had had removed. And- the gun still misfired 40% of the time. Adding extended firing pin http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=SWfpins
solved the problem. On the phone, S&W warranty said they only install stock parts.
So, your mileage may vary. Use a gunsmith, but also think for yourself.

"Time is a function of speed and distance,"... Is a damn narrow definition ,that I don't think applies any way.

Quantum Physics and String Theory aside, I don't think I agree.

I hope you can pardon my hillbillyness. I don spell so good.

In fairness to Madcratebuilder, he said the practice was common, and it is. Not that he condoned it. And that is an entirely different thing my apologies.

Quantum physics? It ain't that complicated. It's simple mechanics.

How can springs have an effect on a mechanically fixed event?

Hypothetically...disable all spark advance in a distributor and set the timing to fire the plug at 10 degrees before top dead center. The plug will fire at 10 degrees BTDC whether the engine is idling or at redline.

How long it takes the pistol to move from the bottom of the cylinder to the top is speed to distance. Time.

In slow-motion by the numbers. (Simplified)

1. Trigger moves. Bolt is pulled into the frame. Hand engages ratchet and begins cylinder rotation.

2. Bolt is released and resets at the appointed place. Cylinder rolls up into battery position. Bolt drops into slot.

3. Hammer breaks. Gun fires.

4. Trigger is released. Hammer and trigger reset.

This, regardless of whether the cycle is in slow-motion or at McGivern speed. Timing.



How quickly the hammer falls is speed to distance. How quickly hammer and trigger reset is speed to distance again. Heavy mainspring reduces the hammer's lock time...but not the timing. Light mainspring increases hammer lock time...but not the timing.

The hammer will break at the appointed place in the cycle regardless of the mainspring's tension and rate. Timing.

Rebound spring resets the trigger from full rearward to full forward. Hammer resets from full forward to full rearward. Heavy rebound spring resets it more quickly. Speed to distance.

Rebound/reset will begin when the trigger is released...regardless of the rebound spring's tension and rate. Timing.

How long reset takes...assuming instant release by the trigger finger...is speed to distance. Time.

Spring rates affect time, but not timing.

Like the linkdown timing in a 1911 pistol. The link determines where it begins and ends, regardless of how fast the slide moves.

Linkdown starts at about 1/10th inch of slide/barrel travel rearward. At 1/4th inch, it's over. You can remove the recoil spring and fire the gun...and that event will occur at the same place. Timing.