I just used MS photo editor to do a little balancing. Dropped the red down a little, too --incandescent lighting?. You might also bring in more main lighting from the upper left.
I'm not generally one for doctoring photos, being of the "get the best pic you can through the lens in the first place" school of thought.
But sometimes...
Also, the camera seemed to prefer focusing on the near objects better. Can you focus on the preferred object, lock the focus, then move the view to encompass the whole scene? (More light would help this situation.)
With the resolutions available today, it sometimes pays to take a long shot to get everything in focus, then "enlarge" and crop it suitably --an old time chemical camera trick. Note in Schmackey's photo that the S&W lettering is sharp as a tack but the near billboard lettering and the far safety lever are starting to get blurred. More lighting, and consequently more lens stopping, would have helped here. (No offense, very nice otherwise.)
Closeups require the most rigid camera platform possible, which is sometimes a problem with a handheld camera unless you prop it against something. I recently got a $100 Casio Camera just for grins, but it is an ergonomic disaster in terms of holding the camera steady while pressing the shutter button. When I finally got things more or less right, I got the undoctored pics in the right thumbnails. (Far right is a barbecue lighter --a "Barbecue Gun," if you prefer.
) Also bear in mind that simple cameras (digital or otherwise) are set up for fixed-focus of, say, two feet to 10-15 feet. Landscapes aren't going to come out too well, nor are closeups. Usually.
Second pic: CFL desk lamp from upper left, about two foot distance. Third pic: four foot distande, just natural light from a window, no fill except from random reflections from general objects in the room (which is why natural lighting is usually so good.) Both cropped.
Do you have or can you jury-rig a light box?