Rare Marlin MR-7 30-06 barrel float question?

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p5200

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I've been checking everywhere and usually, the responses I've gotten was to shoot it first which, when not sure I can understand that advice. I figured if anyone would know it would be you smiths. I bought this used and it looks and functions great. All I really want to know is, did these rifles come from the factory with free floated barrels all the way back to the barrel lug on the sides of the barrel channel or, just so far back. Mine is floated enough for a dollar bill although barely, back to 2 or 3" from the lug and it seems that it is the sides of the barrel channel are the limiting factor. I fired about 20 rounds yesterday just from 50yds. to scope in and get an idea about it's capabilities. Once it started to group, I shot a 4rnd. group and a 3rnd group and each were a little over .5" CTC. Should I remove just enough would from the sides of the channel back to the lug so there's no contact and try again at both 50 and 100yds? I gave about 1 minute between rounds fired for cool down. I'm pretty positive, the barrel does not touch the bottom of the channel just at the sides. Since the areas that catch the dollar bill are dark almost black that there may have been some swelling over time/hunting conditions since this model was only manufactured from 1996-1999. Thanks for all info and suggestions. :)
 
Honestly, I wouldn't mess with it. It's probably shooting about as well it's capable of.
 
Dude - don't be silly. Don't touch that damn rifle. The chance you will improve anything is slim to utterly non-existent. Most all of us would give our left one for an inexpensive rifle that shot that good. (or, an expensive one, for that matter...)

'sides, I think yer just braggin'... I know I would be.
 
In general a free float barrel should be glass bedded just like you describe.

The action and the chamber area of the barrel are glassed, and the rest of the barrel is free floated.

Generally speaking, unless you pillar bed the action, there is not enough surface area on the bottom of the receiver & recoil lug to prevent crushing the stock when the action screws are tightened. The bedding under the chamber area of the barrel provide the necessary action support at the front.

Just make sure there is no side to side or bottom barrel contact foreword of the major chamber dia of the barrel.

rc
 
Not bragging or anything just curious cause it seems I remember reading somewhere, about a couple people who got about the same results and got better by relieving the sides touching the barrel. Of course, I can't remember where I saw it at so many forums and such a short memory any more. :D But, I don't think I'll touch it other than load testing and action screw torques plus, I finally get the Cataract removed from my shooting eye the 7th of August I'll sure be glad of that! :) Right now I have it torqued to 35"lbs. on both screws since it doesn't have pillars. Thanks for all the advice folks! :)
 
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