lube for Lee molds?

Never ever lube a mold cavity.
The lube will burn out and turn to hard carbon fouling on the molds surfaces.

At most, you can smoke them with a candle flame while breaking them in.
The candle soot will help act as mold release.

I very rarely occasionally touch the hot handle henge with a stick of bees wax or bullet lube.

But thats all.

Don't get nothing but candle soot, or hot lead inside the cavities themselves.

rc

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/76...llet-mold-release-agent-and-lube-6-oz-aerosol


This works well and is inexpensive when you consider how many times you can use it. It is a graphite base I think. Don't put oil or anything wet into your cavities. Me thinks that would prolly not be a good idea.

PS:
You might read the Lee mold instructions too.

Step #1, and #2 under IMPORTANT addresses your question.

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/SC1334.pdf

rc

Like RCmodel, I clean and lightly smoke the mold, preheat it and then quickly touch the hot alignment pins and sprue hinge with a little beeswax or a lube stick. Petroleum based grease will probably end up spreading into the vent fins when the mold is hot, and you'll have a heck of a time casting good bullets if it migrates into the cavity.

I use paraffin wax (the kind for canning) on the alignment pins, sprue plate, sprue plate screw and hinge bolt. If any seeps into the cavities, I wipe it out with a Q-Tip.

If the boolits don't release well, I smoke the cavities with a wood match.

Good Luck

Anti-seize works great. Just a tiny dab is all that you need.

Synthetic two stroke oil works even better. Just touch the very tip of a Q-tip in the oil and dab the warm screw and the back side of the sprue plate. Don't let it get into the cavities.

I use the Bull Shop's Sprue Plate lube.

It works very well, is very slippery and is impervious to the high temps. You only need a drop on the hinge (applied just after filling the mold cavities, to ensure no lube gets into them).... and another on the guide pins. After a hundred bullets or so, you may need to reapply.

Good stuff, but as mentioned, a touch of bullet lube or wax can get you by.

Someone on the Cast Boolits site commented recently that Bull Shop lube looks a lot like the high end Husquevarna 2 cycle chail saw oil.... Who knows..... it was only a couple bucks and one little bottle will last me a life time.

Bull Shop lube is also used as an ingredient in some bullet lube recipes.... I think it's referred to as speed green.

^^^ This or a synthetic 2 stroke oil. Wax can build up and cause problems down the road at least for me. Apply with a Qtip on a hot mold that the sprue has been cut on to pins and bottom of sprue plate. Re lube when needed every 50 - 100 casts.

A fully synthetic two cycle oil will work just as well as bull plate. And it's not in a bottle w/ a round bottom. Applying any type of wax is just a bad idea. It's going to buildup and if it's in a wear surface it won't last long. And smoking molds is not necessary. Find out what's wrong w/ the mold and fix it. You'd be amazed what a toothbrush and comet can do for a mold that won't drop bullets.


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Just clean it and use it - don't even soot it up with a candle. They need to break in and over time release very easily. It is more important to clean it well and get any residual oils, solvents, etc off before you use it.