30/40 Krag neck break.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
221
Location
Midwest
Attached photo shows a problem. It shot fine and no real recoil or lack of function. Noticed the broken case and that was only cartridge fired that trip to the range.

Other than maybe a gas seal, which should not be necessary at the pedestrian speed this was supposed to go, any suggestions on how to avoid this in future? If I have several more of these would they be safe to try if I start the bullets forward a little with the inertial hammer as if to pull them?

Brass is Winchester, not used more than three times. WLR primer. Unique powder nine grains. Bullet is .310 for 30/30, 170 grains from Oregon Cast. These worked earlier with eight grains Unique but were very slow, maybe 1200 fps or about the same as .22LR. This one was a little faster but not much.
 

Attachments

  • Busted neck.jpg
    Busted neck.jpg
    52.7 KB · Views: 74
The brass seems to get brittle from work hardening. I have had the same in 223 rem. My guess is, dies size the neck down more than needed. Then the expander opens the neck back up, over working the brass.
th_FCBrass1997.jpg
[/URL][/IMG] Or its bad brass when new??
 
Bullet is tight to neck.

I would guess I don't have a loose enough seat for the bullet to start going. You may also have had similar difficulty, if they sat for twelve years before shooting them. Both our rifles may have tight tolerances for the throat.

Did that .223 case come out easy? I mean the neck part mostly.

I worked on my rifle quite some time before I got the fragment out, and it is obvious that it tried to start down the throat before there became a jam and the bullet finally released and went on down the bore.
 
My broken neck ejected with the body from a bolt action. Had the same in an auto. But sometimes, the next cartridge loading, pick up the neck, causing a misfire. I have had the neck come off when the expander pulls up out of the full length sized case. Make sure you lube the inside of the case neck before sizing with standard dies. Another fix might be to anneal the brass to make it softer. The 3th fix may be to use a Lee Collet neck sizing die, if they make one for your cartridge. I have never used one. A Lyman "M" die can be used to open the insided of the neck before seating a cast lead bullet, but has nothing to do with the cracked necks. IMO.
 
I would not move or pull the bullets, because i feel its not the cause of the cracked neck. If accuracy is poor, the brass may have sized the bullet on seating, making the diameter below .310" But the lead would have to be very soft. Lyman lists 8 to 12 gr of Unique with a 173 gr cast gas check bullet. Maximum velocity around 1500 fps.
 
Last edited:
I'm assuming that the fabric was added when you were trying to pull the separated neck?
You might try coloring the case neck of one of your unfired rounds with a Sharpie and then chambering it carefully to see if the fit is overly tight. If it is, try sizing your bullets to .309 and then check again.
Were the cases trimmed or checked for length before loading?
What type of barrel is this, an original Krag? Remington? Custom? What kind of shape is it in?
Were you using any case fillers such as Dacron or Cream of Wheat?
Were your chamber and bore really clean and free of lube?

I know you've already removed the broken neck portion, but here's my advice for others that might have this problem.
If I don't have a broken case extractor that'll work, I've sometimes had good luck removing problems such as yours with an oversized bore brush inserted from the rear. The back angled wire from the brush will often grip the remaining brass well enough to pull it out if you give the cleaning rod a quick jerk backwards after inserting it.
For badly stuck pieces, a little molten CerroSafe alloy usually works wonders.
Whatever you do, go slow, use your head and avoid using tools hard enough to mar barrel steel. I've seen a lot of barrels ruined by overzealous removal attempts.
 
Cloth was pushed down bore.

I ran bore brush up and down a lot before I shoved bed ticking cloth in. I could feel the tight spot at the throat even though I could not see the neck fragment. I knew it was there, but played with my imagination how it might have went down bore as gilding metal. Bullet fired to point of aim as well as any I've shot through the bore. Cloth caught neck fragment and shoved it out the first time past, from the muzzle. The bed ticking cloth was not part of the load, just a patch that is not very slick.

Barrel is a Flaig from PA, not original Krag of 1898, and seems solid enough. Bore is good looking but brush was getting a few pieces of lead out, some of which may have adhered to the brass fragment. Action and lock up is all okay, probably better than most Krags. This should not be a very high pressure operation. It was the only load I've ever made and shot in the rifle that did not have a slightly extended primer with very rounded edges, indicative of low pressure and no movement back toward the headspace on all but this firing. The fractured brass looked like a normal primer situation flush with cartridge head and no signs of high pressure. I looked bolt over and it looks fine, but these are a one lug operation and I do not intend on trying to stress it unduly.

I do not have a swage die for .309. The bullets come at .310 and usually go in a 30/30, also not a high pressure application. I shot a few of these with eight grains of Unique, and they showed promise, besides not taking much for resources. I have Lee device and ran length cutter, did not get much of anything off any of the brass. The resizing is set to do necks and not push back shoulder much , which is rounded. I suspect break point was where brass was worked to, and the pressure rush had a spot between to try to mushroom but the neck had no spot anything could go on past. The brass neck fragment has an obvious squeezed area where it went forward into throat (after it broke free from rest of case!) and experienced a constriction, the lead bullet gave way and went on out the bore when this whole business caught the throat. I would suspect there is freebore at the shoulder but the actual neck and throat at end of chamber is tight. The dies I have are ancient and I have not changed them much for adjustments, they more or less have been with the Krag for fifty years plus.

The rifle is not very accurate. It does fair with 150 grain jacketed bullets, at the starting load. It would be better described as a carbine. I would like to work up something in these cast bullets that would be consistent, they certainly don't recoil bad at all. I have no interest in loading anything but the starting levels with jacketed bullets.
 
First off, you said you used "Unique " powder in a 30 - 40 Krag load? Thats pistol/revolver powder ! That could be the reason right there son, mixing rifle and pistol powders ain't too good of an idea. Better check your reload book, then get the right powders for the right use! Get out of the revolver/pistol section and into the rifle section of your reload book before you really have some problems.
 
788HAM,

Lots of powders have crossover abilities. Unique is well named as it has been successfully used in rifle, handgun and shotgun reloading. And it is a very established powder for use in cast bullet loads for rifles.
 
Originally Posted by 788Ham
First off, you said you used "Unique " powder in a 30 - 40 Krag load? Thats pistol/revolver powder ! That could be the reason right there son, mixing rifle and pistol powders ain't too good of an idea. Better check your reload book, then get the right powders for the right use! Get out of the revolver/pistol section and into the rifle section of your reload book before you really have some problems.

Was your post meant as a joke? If it was, your condescending use of the term "son" really detracts from the humor.
If the post wasn't meant as a jest, then... I have no words...except to suggest that you read the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, any edition printed after about 1913 should be able to give you the information you need.

Originally Posted by 243winxb
Or its bad brass when new??

This sounds like the most likely explanation to me, at least for the new Winchester 30-40 brass.

I was unable to attach it here, but if you go to:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=688027

About halfway down the page you'll see a photo of 37 Winchester .223 cases that all split/cracked at the neck/shoulder on their FIRST firing right out of the box. All this ammo was fired on the same day out of several different M4s. There were approximately 900 rounds of this ammo (64 grain Winchester .223 Power Point LE) fired that day, most semi, but some full auto and to have 37 cases fail seems to indicate poor quality control to me. Some might blame the failure rate on abuse or maybe one weapon with a bad chamber, but we fired about 1200 rounds of Remington 55 grain ammo that day, through the same weapons, without a SINGLE split neck.
I'll say up front that I always preferred Winchester brass to just about anything but Lapua. My mind has changed in the last couple of years, since I've noticed that recent lots of Winchester ,257 Roberts +P brass don't last as long as my older Winchester .257 +P.
That, along with the .223 cases referenced above has led me to the conclusion that Winchester brass is no longer the premium product that it once was.
 
Last edited:
Bought the brass new unfired.

The failed case was fired only three times. I have twenty of these made and the charge is 8.5 grains of Unique. The brass was new product, not a factory load salvage. I will try the inertia hammer more as they seem real tight. The micrometer says the necks are .003 wider than the jacketed bullets I have been using with no incidents and slightly backed out primers. The difference is about .332 to .335. The cartridges do not cam down hard as they go in rifle. There is probably some jump to the rifling. Seating bullets the feel is not as hard as jacketed, but lead may never be that hard. I have loaded a lot of jacketed bullets but have not done so many cast pills.

The manuals don't say much about dimensions of neck, as headspace is on the rim. I suspect the throat is tight on this rifle, and the chamber is a little freebore near the throat. The brass seems to get worked hard on neck resizing. The cases have not been elongating, especially compared to higher pressure cartridges I've loaded. The brass also seems hard, but the Lapua brass I've used also seems hard but will go 20X in another rifle in 7.62X54R without incident!

Swampman might be right and it is a bad lot of brass. If so I don't have much faith in shooting the rest of these. I would have to say the Winchester brass has not been my favorite over time. Lapua is the best $o far.
 
If it were me I would be contacting Winchester about a bad batch of brass. They should at least replace the unused ones. Hopefully the new ones will fare better.
 
Considering that there's only three load cycles on that brass and that it flat BROKE before a LEAD bullet would pull, I'd say that brass was trash from the factory.

I'm sure glad that we switched to Speer Gold Dots for our .223 duty ammo...
 
Dies are old Pacific.

On another data set for cartridge measurements, the neck size was within normal limits, by several thousandths.

The break does not look fresh when it broke in the inertial hammer, as if the brass is granular and doing something electrolytic. I wonder if the silver Oregon Laser cast bullets are doing something electrical to the brass. In any event it all seems dangerous to me at this point. They do not pull easily with the inertial hammer device. In some way they are sticky.

I was really happy with the idea that I could shoot the old thing for low dollar and with low pressure rounds.

I wonder about the 170 grain Oregon Laser Cast bullets in .310, if they have a good track record.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top