I've got a Model 19 that I use for fun at the range (I find shooting DA revolvers improves my trigger pull on semi's). I mostly shoot .38spl wadcutters with it, but every once in a while will touch off some .357s. Of course, that leaves me with a carbon ring. It occurs to me that a possible solution would be to load some wadcutters into a .357 case. Obviously, one would need to increase the charge a bit due to the larger volume. Has anyone done this? More importantly, has anyone got any published data for it?
.357 wadcutter load?
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ArchAngelCD
Member.
I agree 100%. It's done a lot and it works very well.
As a side note, if you carry a spent .357 Magnum case in your range bag you don't have to worry about carbon rings. On the rare occasions you decide to shoot full magnum loads all you need to do is tap the spent case into each charge hole which will remove any ring that might be there. Chamfering the case mouth makes it even easier to remove the ring.
Now for the real problem, where are the pictures of that Model 19 of yours?
Jesse Heywood
Member
And if you look, the reloading manuals show .357 magnum loads for the 148 gr WC. Most are warmer than the 38 spl. Follow Walkalong's advice on the loads. I have had good results pushing as high as 1,200 fps, but most shooters like them slow.
Thanks guys!
A'A'CD, I have a slightly flared .357 case that I use as my carbon scraper... but not having the rings in the first place would be even nicer!
As for pics, it's just a well-used one from 1982, missing some bluing (holster wear from previous owner). It is now sporting, however, the first set of grips that I've ever tried to make. Maybe I'll try to get a snap or two after all...
Thanks again, fellas.
A'A'CD, I have a slightly flared .357 case that I use as my carbon scraper... but not having the rings in the first place would be even nicer!
As for pics, it's just a well-used one from 1982, missing some bluing (holster wear from previous owner). It is now sporting, however, the first set of grips that I've ever tried to make. Maybe I'll try to get a snap or two after all...
Thanks again, fellas.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
Not every gun has to be showroom new for it to be interesting. All of my guns are shooters and I still like to show them off! lol
stu1ritter
Member
If you are shooting commercial hardcast wadcutters, like the Magnus I shoot, according to Terry at Magnus they are good to 1100-1150 fps. YMMV.
Stu
Stu
Taroman
Member
Tried several different wadcutters in my 357s.
The load I finally settled on is the Hornady 148 HBWC over 3.6 grains of 231 in .357 brass. Federal primers.
Chrono'd these at 788 FPS,
On the 25 yard line, I can hold the 10 ring 90+ percent of my shots.
The load I finally settled on is the Hornady 148 HBWC over 3.6 grains of 231 in .357 brass. Federal primers.
Chrono'd these at 788 FPS,
On the 25 yard line, I can hold the 10 ring 90+ percent of my shots.
Bad Flynch
Member
Over the years. I have tried many WCs in both .38s and .357s. And I have tried those in both caliber cases, where I could. This included extensive tests with a Ransom Rest.
You can load WCs in either case and the longer case may or may not prevent the lead ring; it may simply move it forward. The longer cases do not necessarily improve groups, either. The problematic lead ring will go away with a brush chucked on a drill.
In general, HBWCs out-shot DEWCs and SEWCs. HBWCs have some power and velocity limitations and hot loads may spread your revolver's barrel forcing cone' it has been done.
Different revolvers have liked different brands of HBWCs. My Pythons like the Remington factory 148gr bullet and my Smiths generally prefer the Hornadys. I have not had good luck with the Speer bullets, but some have. Winchester's HBWCs shot well in my Smiths, but are not generally available now.
The best powders have been Bullseye and PB, by far. .357 cases take a little extra powder, on the order of 0.3gr.
Use the softest, mildest primer you can get: small Remington or Federal. RWS would probably be good, too, but are hard to find and expensive.
Seat your HBWCs to flush with the case mouth and crimp heavily. I know that everybody does not like that, but Ransom Rest testing proved it to me. Look at factory fodder in this same loads; they all have heavy roll crimps. Some of that is for feed ramps in the few autoloaders, but it also increases start pressure and makes the powder burn better. An ordinary crimp die will simply not do; I use a Redding Pro Crimp and the Lee FCD works next best.
You can load WCs in either case and the longer case may or may not prevent the lead ring; it may simply move it forward. The longer cases do not necessarily improve groups, either. The problematic lead ring will go away with a brush chucked on a drill.
In general, HBWCs out-shot DEWCs and SEWCs. HBWCs have some power and velocity limitations and hot loads may spread your revolver's barrel forcing cone' it has been done.
Different revolvers have liked different brands of HBWCs. My Pythons like the Remington factory 148gr bullet and my Smiths generally prefer the Hornadys. I have not had good luck with the Speer bullets, but some have. Winchester's HBWCs shot well in my Smiths, but are not generally available now.
The best powders have been Bullseye and PB, by far. .357 cases take a little extra powder, on the order of 0.3gr.
Use the softest, mildest primer you can get: small Remington or Federal. RWS would probably be good, too, but are hard to find and expensive.
Seat your HBWCs to flush with the case mouth and crimp heavily. I know that everybody does not like that, but Ransom Rest testing proved it to me. Look at factory fodder in this same loads; they all have heavy roll crimps. Some of that is for feed ramps in the few autoloaders, but it also increases start pressure and makes the powder burn better. An ordinary crimp die will simply not do; I use a Redding Pro Crimp and the Lee FCD works next best.
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