Hunting Arrow

Status
Not open for further replies.

brainwake

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2011
Messages
474
Location
Oklahoma
So I am new to archery. I bought a bow...just got the 60 lb...I am not Rambo so no need to get a 70 lb...anyways...The pro shop set me up and they had my bow turned all the way down. But I have been shooting and it is very easy, so I turned my bow up some. I figure I am running around 56 pounds and it is pretty comfortable for me.

so...the pro shop set me up with some arrows. They recommended the Carbon Express Predator 2. And that is what I have been practicing with. They seem fine...but what do I know...I am inexperienced and I know it... But I was on the Carbon Express site and was trying to see what size my field tips where..I noticed that they said this arrow was designed for people shooting 30-50 pounds. And since I am over that now, I was thinking I should probably change arrows.

Can anyone make some recommendations? I don't necessarily have to load up on the most expensive arrows, but I do want to make sure I am using a good one for hunting.
 
Personally, iffin I was not going to turn the bow up anymore, I'd shoot 'em with no worries, if they still flew correctly. Don't understand why a bow shop would sell you arrows they knew were at the bottom of the bow's shooting weight when there are other options out there that would have covered your 50-60 lbs weight adjustment.
 
I am trying to learn how to tune my bow myself. I just don't have a lot of faith in the pro shop at the moment. I starting looking into the Easton Archery Guide to Arrow Tuning. But I don't want to go through all that trouble if I am not really using the correct arrow.

One thing that lead me down this path was that my arrow rest came loose and I started researching how to get it back in tune. Low and behold....there is a lot to tuning a bow. It looks like it involves taking shots through paper and analyzing the tears, then making adjustments from there.

Does it make sense to go through all of that before deciding to change arrows? I am still pretty new and just trying to learn without falling prey to the mass advertising to think that I need the most expensive stuff on the market.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf
 
You need to confirm these arrows are suitable to your bow poundage before shooting again. If they are too light or the spine is not stiff enough it is like dry firing it.
 
oh and another thing, I did the worksheet on Carbon express...it has you add and take points away and you come up with an adjusted bow weight. My chart came up with a +9. So my adjusted weight actually is around 65 pounds....which further leads me to think I might need to change arrows.


However...looking at the selection chart on Carbon Express's site...I do see the model of arrow in my group.

PT6075 <-- This is what I have
CR350
TR6075
HE350
MMP350
MAX350

So maybe I have answered my own question? I should just choose from these arrows?
 
Last edited:
What's your draw length? Or if you know it the arrow length? From that and the poundage you can determine whether you are under\over spined or not.
 
I will double check those numbers when I get home. I think I am 29.5 draw and the arrow length was 30. and my adjusted poundage was 65. Bow set to 56.
 
okay working off of zdc775 comments I have this info from the spine calculator I found on google

Use arrows with
actual spine
deflection of:
.330-370"


0.331" <-- My arrow spine.

So it looks like I am in the clear..but on the low end...
 
Unless your cammed really hard with that weight and length then a .330 spine is great. Lower is better (or stiffer at least) with regards to arrow spine. As an example I shoot GoldTip 7595 Hunter XT's at 29" with 125 grain tips and 20 grain FOC weights with a 63lb draw weight and medium cams. Thats a .340 spined arrow and I'm technically overspined.
 
Last edited:
good to know. Thanks zdc1775

So knowing all of this..would you stay with the predator 2?

Maybe I just need to go ahead and try the paper turning process.
 
Unless your cammed really hard with that weight and length then a .330 spine is great. Lower is better (or stiffer at least) with regards to arrow spine. As an example I shoot GoldTip 7595 Hunter XT's at 29" with 125 grain tips and 20 grain FOC weights with a 63lb draw weight and medium cams. Thats a .340 spined arrow and I'm technically overspined.
This. What bow do you have? As was stated, if it's hard cammed then I would change arrows if you're going to continue to increase draw weight. If not, I'd just stick with what you've got
 
If it was me I would paper tune and walk back tune before I changed my arrows.

Regarding the Predator 2's I have heard mixed reviews about them but as long as you are checking them and they are working for you them I don't see any reason to change.
 
I have the following three bows,
1) Bowtech Tomkat
2) Mathews Drenalin
3) Bowtech Admiral

All of them are 60 - 70# bows and I have them all set up on the upper end.

When I started out I was also persuaded to go with the 6075's which I did. This was when I purchased the Tomkat and was just finding out if I could actually handle the repeated pulling of practice. Due to having surgery on both elbows I had no idea if I would be able too.

Well that worry didn't last long at all. I was shooting 50 - 100 shots per session in no time.

This was back in 05 - 06 if I remember right. Now after all that time and adding the other two bows I still have close to a half dozen of the original dozen arrows I purchased with the Tomkat.

I am shooting them at 29" with a 28 - 29" draw length and running all my bows at 68 - 70#. I doubt seriously your going to have any issues with them at the lower draw weight your using. I do however commend you for doing the research to find out. This is something that most do not do even hard core veterans. I see it all the time where folks are shooting lighter spine arrows simply to get faster speeds.

I can pass on another tidbit of knowledge as well. Once you get you bow dialed in, you might look into the 400 series of the Easton FMJ. Especially if you plan on hunting. Hands down these have been the best arrows I have used, and believe me between me and my hunting bud we have spent some hard cash on trying out different ones. You will get a heavier arrow to start with, but it will be smaller in diameter. This equates to better penetration and even at the lower speeds you will have no worries driving them through a white tail. His wife pulls 45# an uses the 400's and has no issues with shooting through bucks and into 3-5" of dirt behind them.

I'll throw this out for you as well, as again we have spent hundreds on different broadheads to find something that works each and every time regardless. For best overall spin test and on target accuracy equal to field points hands down get you some Razortricks by Slick Trick. I have not found anything to compare to them and neither has my bud and he has close to a grand tied up in testing different heads.

Hope this helps.

Oh and if you follow the link below my sig, and then peruse the other albums you will find one on archery. In there you will see some groups I have shot with the same arrows your using as well as the Bass Pro Shop version made by them. one last thing, is to tune you bow at all ranges startign up close and working your way back to 30 or 40yds. Move you sights in tiny increments and you will catch on quick.

Two other web sites you might find helpful, well three,
Archerytalk,
Broadheadtalk
Huntersfriend

If you can't find the answers your looking for at those three your pretty much SOL.
 
Last edited:
Be very careful shooting carbon fiber arrows which are either not splined or sized correctly for your equipment try to visit the link I posted below or just google carbon arrows breaking. I saw this happen once and check my arrows prior to use since by flexing them. I would not wish it on anyone.

Good Luck and shoot straight.

https://www.google.com/search?q=car...v&sa=X&ei=IXDYUv73Kc2-sQT284HwBw&ved=0CDwQsAQ
 
Oh great, now I'm afraid to shoot carbon arrows after following that link. I don't know if I could flex it enough times to be confident after seeing that!
 
The lesson from that link is don't shoot grossly under-splined or damaged arrows.
And here is my PSA of the Day: Flex your arrows before every shot and discard them at the first sign of splitting or cracking.
 
And here is my PSA of the Day: Flex your arrows before every shot and discard them at the first sign of splitting or cracking.


Kinda the same thing we did 50 years ago when all we had was cedar arrows. Again, I think the OP is safe to shoot the arrows he has.
 
might be a little old school but i still use aluminum xx75s I like the added weight for penetration and dont shoot past 25 yards so am not that conserned with trajectory.
 
After shooting several different brands of Carbon Arrows I have settled on Easton Axes hands down with no Questions asked. Easton has been building Arrows for years they have them in different spline weight that will fill every need. Don't take my word check them out you won't be dissatisfied.
Flip
 
I wouldn't be concerned about shooting the Carbon Express arrows. I have found them to be really tough and they shoot great. According to the Carbon Express arrow chart the PT 6075 can be used with a 58-63 pound bow with a 30 inch arrow. The same 30 inch arrow will also work for a 64 -69 pound bow. If you're shooting 100 grain points they should be good. Just remember that if you use 125 grain points it reduces the spine of the arrow. Watch the arrow when it exits the bow. If you can't see it wobble and it's shooting good groups you're good to go.
 
might be a little old school but i still use aluminum xx75s I like the added weight for penetration and dont shoot past 25 yards so am not that conserned with trajectory.
Just because you shoot carbon doesn't mean you can't still be heavy. My current arrows are right at 465 grains and my bow only shoots them at about 250-260fps but I'm still good out to about 35-40 yards depending on the deer.

By comparison if I were to swap out just the shaft to xx75's the weight would increase between 2.9 and 142 grains depending on which spline I bought.
 
Last edited:
I would first suggest you get on Archery forums if you want the most help. Alot of guys on archerytalk.com are experienced bow smiths. As far as arrows go, there are endless amounts of arrows you can chose from. My favorite arrows by far are Easton x-10's. Will cost you 300/dozen though. But I would say just do some research. Carbon express is pretty renowned for their maximas, but I like beeman, goldtip, easton, and trophy ridge all better.
 
Just because you shoot carbon doesn't mean you can't still be heavy. My current arrows are right at 465 grains and my bow only shoots them at about 250-260fps but I'm still good out to about 35-40 yards depending on the deer.

By comparison if I were to swap out just the shaft to xx75's the weight would increase between 2.9 and 142 grains depending on which spline I bought

I thought the biggest advantage to them is for the same spline there lighter. If not why spend the premium price over aluminum? Ive shot both out of my compound before i went to a crossbow and never seen one any more accurate then the other. Carbon might be a bit more durable but when they take a bad hit there toast and aluminum can many times be straightened if they bend. I guess to me ive killed alot of deer with compounds and crossbows with aluminum arrows and never once misssed an oportunity to put back straps on the table because i used aluminum. i did try carbon when the first came to market but just didnt see the big hoopla that surounded them.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top