Stock Repair

I would use clear epoxy, but wood glue would work.

Just trial fit the piece and make sure it will fit back in all the way before you put the glue on it.

It should not compromise the stock, as the glue joint will be stronger then it was before.

rc

I've done quite well with eurethane glue (gorilla glue or like) on stocks that have been broken from heavy recoil. I'm sure it would work fine for your repair. Careful to moisten the repair area first and use small amount of glue as it expands quite a bit. I believe the newer gorilla glues will not foam as much as the older lot.

I've not had a stock repaired with this adhesive returned to me due to bonding failure.

I'd use Elmer's wood glue, I've used that in the past and never had a problem with it, just make sure the piece fits properly, and just before the glue sets, be sure to have a damp cloth to remove the excess glue.

One small point (probably not needed by OP, but let's put it here for someone who might come across the thread later) is that their wood glue -- which I remember as being called "carpenter's glue" -- is NOT their white glue! White glue is weak and remains water-soluble; not suitable here at all.

The best product to use is Acraglass but carpenters glue should work. Test fit first with a clamp, then glue it up.

Ditto on Elmers Carpenters glue the yellow stuff, is what I was referring.

I treat the clamping area with wax paper folded over itself three times after wiping off excess glue from outside. Has always worked well for me.

Epoxy. NOTHING else. Period.

Epoxy with maybe some wood flour mixed in to reset the sliver with.

I usually use clear epoxy. I like using it because it's clear, glossy, and is much more tolerant to gun oil and solvents than standard wood glue. I also holds really well. I once repaired a butt stock that had split badly, and the expoxy repair I made on that firearm has held up for many years, and it's impossible to identify where it had split.

GS

Nothing but Acraglas. It is formulated for wood repairs.
As an aside, I made that mistake on my first gun, also a Savage M24. To prevent that mistake in the future, I always keep a small flashlight on my bench to look and make sure I have the screwdriver in the slot.

I've done wood work of all type for many years. Looking at that piece, I doubt you are going to get sightless patch. Either take off the recoil pad and gouge out some wood, of find something close you can use to make some sawdust with. If you know the stain type, mix it, the sawdust and woodglue together prior to setting the piece back in, this will create a stronger bond and alow you to refinish the area very close to original. Once you have it set and clamped, allow to dry for 24 hrs. Sand the area around at least a 1/2" on all sides. Smooth with 400 grit. Now, and this is important, apply a wet rag to let the grain rise, leave it about 20 mins, then knock it down with 600-800 grit. Let dry again for 24 hours. You should now be able restain, let it cure and then apply top coat for protection. It takes a bit more work doing it this way but I've been able to make invisible patches, and have them hold, on all types of wood for all types of usage. Good luck, kb

Given the size I would not know how to do a sightless repair. Sightless is very hard anyway for me. Whether I use flour or a dutchman. I use a sightless per foot measure .... like 10ft/sightless repair