Walker and pyrodex pellets

No, but I've seen those things come shooting out and go down range, starting small fires. They sure looked cool streaking through the air for about 25-30 yards before dropping down. They just plain do not appeal to me.

There was a thread about blowing cylinders on Walker clones, had more to do with the bullet than the charge but I would tend to stick to black powder with my Walker repro's.
That is just me, your mileage may vary.

Yeah I would stick with loose black powder (what the gun was designed to use) or loose black powder substitute. Besides that, around here pyrodex pellets are expensive! Why do you want to use them anyway? Just curious.

Measuring loose black powder is pretty easy. I Acquired some pellets with a Ruger Old Army purchase, but have never even tried using them. They seem like more trouble than they are worth to me, but if I can get them to come out as flaming balls of fire then maybe they do have a use.

Uggh, Pyrodex, the scourge of the black powder buyer! Best used as fertilizer, not in your guns.

Wow. Roman Candles!!!!

The limited experience I've had with the Pyro pellets in my Remingtons tells me the pellets seem to have more power & recoil than the equivalent 30grs of black powder. There was a sharper kick with the pellets. I did not have 100% reliability of ignition with the pellets. Also I felt that I had to crunch the pellets to get better ignition.

Slight skirting of OP question but I have tried Pyrodex pistol pellets in my Uberti Rem'58 and Colt'60. I use Remington #10 caps for the Uberti nipples and have 100% reliable ignition of the pellets for an entire can of them.

They are more expensive than loose Pyro P and Goex, but somewhat more convenient.

If that floats your canoe, try 'em, you'll like it. I would not use two and I would not crush the pellets...I'm a pretty conservative guy.

Good luck,

FH

I agree with Harry, I have used the pellets and never had any problems, the gun went bang and the bullet went where I wanted it to. They are a bit pricy at about 18 cents each but I don't think I would use two in any pistol.

To repost an answer from 1997 CAS-L: " File a small notch in the business end of the latch spring so there is a
small "step" that engages the loading lever. (Frank Leaman suggested this
approach years ago.)
Tex, SASS #4"
Frank Leaman is a genius and card shark/magician. I've met him.(Now deceased)
I've done this on both of my Uberti Walkers and neither has dropped a latch in about 5 matches I have shot them in since. The "step" is pretty touchy. If you make it too deep the latch won't come down at all and if there is too little step the fix won't work. The business end of the spring is rounded and you take a little off the upper end (toward the barrel) so when the spring snaps in place as the lever is lifted there is a more abrupt lip that it has to climb over for the rammer to come down. I bought an extra spring from Uberti before I got out the file.
Another suggestion is to lighten your loads to lessen recoil. If you insist on shooting heavy loads (50-55grs FFFg) if you are lucky all you will get is a crushed wedge that opens up the gap. You'll think your gun is really blasting but all you are getting is lost power blowing out the cylinder gap. New wedges will be in order. If you are unlucky, you will get the cylinder pin backing out of the frame or stretching of the wedge cutout. Lots of $$$ to fix. Drop the load down to 35-45grs.
Another way to reduce the recoil is to change to FFg powder. It is slower but has a smoother pressure peak.
A third suggestion is to hold the gun more firmly to prevent barrel lift from recoil. I'm not sure what effect that will actually have. If you DON'T grip the gun firmly the barrel tips right down due to the weight.
My Walker load is 44grs of FFg+lube wad+.454RB+grease on top. It's called a .44-44.