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acman

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Hello everyone I will be getting a Ruger blackhawk in .357 magnum here in a few days, would have been sooner but unexpected shipping delays occurred. Anyway I want to start reloading for it, I have experience reloading shotgun shells but not anything else. I would also like to reload for my .223 but not to often for it. What brand and model of reloader should I get and where at? I have a 150 dollar budget roughly, can anything decent be had at that price? Thanks.
 
For a $150 budget, your options are quite limited - a set of decent dies alone is probably $50 or so. I started with a single stage press, but that got old really fast. Unless you're loading only a handful at a time, so will you. After just a few months, I bought a Dillon 550 I still have and use after nearly 30 years.
 
A Lee single stage is a good idea if on a budget, even if not on a budget it's always a good idea to have one. I have a Lee single stage and a Dillon RL550B progressive.
 
The Lee Challenger kit and a set of dies will keep you right at your $150 limit and you will have everything you need to load .357 mag.

Setup that primes on the press:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/42...ge-press-anniversary-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Setup that uses a hand primer:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/12...k-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding


Dies:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/41...et-38-special-357-magnum?cm_vc=ProductFinding


I would also pick up some dial or digital calipers. Cheap and very handy. I use a set of the HF digital calipers all the time.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dial-caliper-66541.html


For starters, if you ever have a .357 Mag case that is too long, you can scrap it, but eventually you may need a trimmer of some kind, especially if you start reloading rifle.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476992/lee-case-trimmer-cutter-and-lock-stud?cm_vc=ProductFinding

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/31...d-shellholder-357-magnum?cm_vc=ProductFinding

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/79...case-trimmer-handgun-set?cm_vc=ProductFinding
 
Welcome to the forum and thanks for asking our advice. What I would do

Aside from eye protection and manuals, you only need three things (physically) to load good ammo.

Press because fingers are not strong enough to form metal
Dies because fingers are neither strong enough nor accurate enough to form metal to SAAMI specs
Scale (or calibrated dippers) because eyeballs are not accurate enough to measure out gunpowder

Everything else can be done without, substituted for or improvised until you can afford to buy good quality gear.

But there are a few accessories to make you safe. The three items above can make dangerous ammo or safe ammo with equal ease.

1 Manual(s) Lots of manuals. Borrow from the Library, Buy from used book stores. Age does not matter at this point. You are interested in the early chapters of the manuals, not the loading data. Read the instructions for the fundamentals. "ABCs of Reloading" and the Lyman Reloading Manuals are always mentioned. Lee's "Modern Reloading", too. The early chapters of almost all manuals are devoted to the "How-To" steps, but each author/set of editors write or with different "voices" and emphasize different parts of the loading procedures. Expose yourself to a variety to get a well-rounded overview. At least one must be of recent vintage (at least new as the powder you intend to use).

Load recipes are available from the internet, but be wary of casual sources. Rely on the web sites of the powder manufacturers, bullet makers and loading equipment makers. Compare any casual source recipes to those more authoritative sources. ALWAYS get data from at least two authoritative sources to guard against (the rare, but possible) typographical errors.

2 safety glasses No explanation needed here, hopefully. Wear then EVERY TIME you load, ALL THE TIME especially when working with primers. Use your shooting glasses if you must, but get a set you keep permanently with your loading gear so you will never be tempted to do without.

3 Press Get one that mounts to a bench. Hand-helds are good, but mounted solid is easier to use. Does not have to bolted to the "center of the earth" (I used one bolted to a 2x6 board wedged in an end-table drawer for a long time) but held steady is convenient. I still use that same 2x6, but now it's clamped in a folding, portable workbench. (You generally get what you pay for, but even the cheap ones will work for decades.) Presses come in three basic types, single stage, turret and progressive. Simpler is easier to learn on, but there is little difference in the learning curve between single stage and turret. Progressive is more complex.

4 Dies with shell holder Tungsten Carbide (for straight-walled cases, primarily pistols)

5 powder/bullet scale (you will want to weigh your powder charges, for assurance and safety.)

6 priming tool (or use the one that may or may not come as part of or with the press)

7 Calipers to measure the dimensions of your ammunition and components.

Now you are set up to be safe

Optional items that make life easier

8 A way to mete powder faster/more conveniently than weighing each and every charge. Homemade scoop or Lee powder dipper are cheaper than a powder thrower and in my opinion, just as good, but marginally slower.

9 Powder trickler (an empty rifle casing twirled between your fingers or a chemist's spatula or even a butterknife can do). For making small adjustments in powder charge in the scale. The spatula can remove as well as add, but the twirled casing so SOOO easy.

10 Funnel for getting the powder into the cartridge case without spillage. Use your fingers, a folded/rolled paper if necessary.

11 loading block to hold one box's worth of cartridge cases. Get two, they are cheap. Move the shells from one to the other as you progress through a box of ammo and (primary function) keep you from knocking over a case (or a bunch) already charged with powder. Also, with a batch of cases charged with powder, you can visually check multiple powder levels simultaneously-a safety feature.

12 If loading cartridges which need lubrication, a lube pad and some rags (or a supply of paper towels) is a good idea, but you can get away with a spray lube or applying a solid lube (Imperial Die Wax) with your fingers if you are so inclined.

13 bullet puller

other stuff, these are mostly valuable for rifle cartridges.

Deburring tool - if you don't get the Lyman trimmer and it's tools, get a Lyman or RCBS type deburr tool.

Case lube - Imperial Die Wax, finger applied for rifle cases. Hornady 1-Shot for pistol cases.

Caliper (mentioned above, but here is more detail) - Dial or vernier, but get one that is accurate to 0.001". Harbor Freight tools sell some for as little as $15-$20, MidwayUSA sells them pretty cheap too. I recommend the mechanical type, not the digital. Digitals are no more accurate, perhaps a little less and they won't work without good batteries. That can be a hassle when you want to use it NOW!

You really need something to keep track of case stretching/trimming and, to some degree, OAL length of your loaded ammo. A caliper does both jobs very well, but you may not need it until after you have some brass that has gone through multiple loadings.

OAL and Case Length Gage system - You can get by without these but, if you want them, get the Hornady tools for best versatility But you MUST have a caliper to use them on!

17. Brass cleaner. (tumbler) If you want pretty brass. I went without one for decades. Now I have one. My brass is prettier, but shoots just the same. Wiping down is all I ever used to do. Now I vibrate them clean. A vibratory or rotating case cleaner/tumbler will do - There is little practical difference in any of them. And use either walnut or cob media, both work fine, there is no practical difference at all.

IF you want shiny brass use any inexpensive auto polish - add a cap full at a time when you need it - instead of the much more expensive branded types. It's all the same stuff anyway. Nu-Finish is very popular. Avoid any polish that includes ammonia, which weakens brass.

Lost Sheep
 
although i still use my single stage, i upgraded within a month or two to a turret press. I like it so much better. for what it's worth i don't think it's that much more for a lee turret kit vs the s.s. kits. I started as a new reloader this time last year and have gone to invest in a lot of equipment through trial and error. although i love reloading, the process can be painful. sometimes speed of production = $$. it all depends on the reloader and how much they plan on shooting/storing...
 
Some excellent advice above to get you started. I really like that listed Amazon price on that Lee Turret. (I only have one press....the Lee Loadmaster progressive and need a press that can be used as single.)

The only real snag currently is powder availability, but buy your other stuff in prep for when the powder drought ends.
 
Before you buy equipment, get some texts and/or manuals. The ABCs of Reloading, Lyman's 49th edition Reloading manual, and Hornady's reloading manual. The ABCs will tell you nearly everything involved in reloading and the two manuals have excellent "How To" sections.

Personally, I don't like kits, and would rather research and buy equipment as I need it. But, I too would suggest Lee equipment for starters. I've used one of these quite a bit (before I got a dedicated reloading area, I would reload at the kitchen table using this Lee hand press).http://www.titanreloading.com/kits/lee-breech-lock-hand-press-kit. A set of dies will run about $30.00 from Lee (but ferget a Lee factory crimp die for handgun cartridges, just learn to adjust your dies and you won't need one).

If you don't have the time here's a decent kit http://www.titanreloading.com/kits/lee-breech-lock-challenger-50th-anniversary-kit. Other tools you need may be lurking in your tool box (micrometers, countersinks, etc.).

But remember; go slow, double check everything, and have fun!
 
You can use the Classic Turret as a single stage by removing the indexing rod (a 3 second job). As I post this Amazon has the Lee Classic Turret for $92.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision...1417273707&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+classic+turret
...or go to FS Reloading and save $20

https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-turret-press-90496.html

I do think the The Lee Challenger 50th Anniversary kit that Walkalong suggested is a better way to start..again you can save $17 at FS Reloading

https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-breech-lock-challenger-50th-anniversary-kit-90050.html
 
That is a better deal, and they are including the Lee Precision Value Trim with it as well.
 
look around and find the best deal. save on shipping and buy from one source. midway is having a $20 off $100 and also offer $15 off for new customers. (not valid to combine promos and on sale items which is a bummer) Not only that they offer special birthday pricing... i get about 90% of my reloading equipment from them. Titan reloading is where I got my classic turret kit about this time last year.

kits they offer
http://www.titanreloading.com/kits

classic turret kit for $189
http://www.titanreloading.com/kits/lee-classic-cast-turret-press-kit
 
trigga said:
look around and find the best deal.

Titan reloading is where I got my classic turret kit about this time last year.

kits they offer
http://www.titanreloading.com/kits

classic turret kit for $189
http://www.titanreloading.com/kits/l...rret-press-kit
I agree, compare everything you're interested in and also account for shipping.

Not to belabor the point, But FS has consistently better prices on Lee equipment. While their Classic Turret Kit is only $1 less, their Classic Cast SS is 10% less and their Shell Holder assortment pack is 30% less expensive
 
Yea, when I recommend equipment, I just use an easy quick link. It is the would be purchaser that needs to do their due diligence on pricing.

It always helps them when members suggest different sources, as many new reloaders do not know all the places to look. Heck, I don't know them all. :)
 
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