Welcome to the forum and thanks for asking our advice. What I would do
Aside from eye protection and manuals, you only need three things (physically) to load good ammo.
Press because fingers are not strong enough to form metal
Dies because fingers are neither strong enough nor accurate enough to form metal to SAAMI specs
Scale (or calibrated dippers) because eyeballs are not accurate enough to measure out gunpowder
Everything else can be done without, substituted for or improvised until you can afford to buy good quality gear.
But there are a few accessories to make you safe. The three items above can make dangerous ammo or safe ammo with equal ease.
1 Manual(s) Lots of manuals. Borrow from the Library, Buy from used book stores. Age does not matter at this point. You are interested in the early chapters of the manuals, not the loading data. Read the instructions for the fundamentals. "ABCs of Reloading" and the Lyman Reloading Manuals are always mentioned. Lee's "Modern Reloading", too. The early chapters of almost all manuals are devoted to the "How-To" steps, but each author/set of editors write or with different "voices" and emphasize different parts of the loading procedures. Expose yourself to a variety to get a well-rounded overview. At least one must be of recent vintage (at least new as the powder you intend to use).
Load recipes are available from the internet, but be wary of casual sources. Rely on the web sites of the powder manufacturers, bullet makers and loading equipment makers. Compare any casual source recipes to those more authoritative sources. ALWAYS get data from at least two authoritative sources to guard against (the rare, but possible) typographical errors.
2 safety glasses No explanation needed here, hopefully. Wear then EVERY TIME you load, ALL THE TIME especially when working with primers. Use your shooting glasses if you must, but get a set you keep permanently with your loading gear so you will never be tempted to do without.
3 Press Get one that mounts to a bench. Hand-helds are good, but mounted solid is easier to use. Does not have to bolted to the "center of the earth" (I used one bolted to a 2x6 board wedged in an end-table drawer for a long time) but held steady is convenient. I still use that same 2x6, but now it's clamped in a folding, portable workbench. (You generally get what you pay for, but even the cheap ones will work for decades.) Presses come in three basic types, single stage, turret and progressive. Simpler is easier to learn on, but there is little difference in the learning curve between single stage and turret. Progressive is more complex.
4 Dies with shell holder Tungsten Carbide (for straight-walled cases, primarily pistols)
5 powder/bullet scale (you will want to weigh your powder charges, for assurance and safety.)
6 priming tool (or use the one that may or may not come as part of or with the press)
7 Calipers to measure the dimensions of your ammunition and components.
Now you are set up to be safe
Optional items that make life easier
8 A way to mete powder faster/more conveniently than weighing each and every charge. Homemade scoop or Lee powder dipper are cheaper than a powder thrower and in my opinion, just as good, but marginally slower.
9 Powder trickler (an empty rifle casing twirled between your fingers or a chemist's spatula or even a butterknife can do). For making small adjustments in powder charge in the scale. The spatula can remove as well as add, but the twirled casing so SOOO easy.
10 Funnel for getting the powder into the cartridge case without spillage. Use your fingers, a folded/rolled paper if necessary.
11 loading block to hold one box's worth of cartridge cases. Get two, they are cheap. Move the shells from one to the other as you progress through a box of ammo and (primary function) keep you from knocking over a case (or a bunch) already charged with powder. Also, with a batch of cases charged with powder, you can visually check multiple powder levels simultaneously-a safety feature.
12 If loading cartridges which need lubrication, a lube pad and some rags (or a supply of paper towels) is a good idea, but you can get away with a spray lube or applying a solid lube (Imperial Die Wax) with your fingers if you are so inclined.
13 bullet puller
other stuff, these are mostly valuable for rifle cartridges.
Deburring tool - if you don't get the Lyman trimmer and it's tools, get a Lyman or RCBS type deburr tool.
Case lube - Imperial Die Wax, finger applied for rifle cases. Hornady 1-Shot for pistol cases.
Caliper (mentioned above, but here is more detail) - Dial or vernier, but get one that is accurate to 0.001". Harbor Freight tools sell some for as little as $15-$20, MidwayUSA sells them pretty cheap too. I recommend the mechanical type, not the digital. Digitals are no more accurate, perhaps a little less and they won't work without good batteries. That can be a hassle when you want to use it NOW!
You really need something to keep track of case stretching/trimming and, to some degree, OAL length of your loaded ammo. A caliper does both jobs very well, but you may not need it until after you have some brass that has gone through multiple loadings.
OAL and Case Length Gage system - You can get by without these but, if you want them, get the Hornady tools for best versatility But you MUST have a caliper to use them on!
17. Brass cleaner. (tumbler) If you want pretty brass. I went without one for decades. Now I have one. My brass is prettier, but shoots just the same. Wiping down is all I ever used to do. Now I vibrate them clean. A vibratory or rotating case cleaner/tumbler will do - There is little practical difference in any of them. And use either walnut or cob media, both work fine, there is no practical difference at all.
IF you want shiny brass use any inexpensive auto polish - add a cap full at a time when you need it - instead of the much more expensive branded types. It's all the same stuff anyway. Nu-Finish is very popular. Avoid any polish that includes ammonia, which weakens brass.
Lost Sheep