Bull Nutria
Member
do the buckmark models that do not have the picatinny rail have scope mount grooves built into them?? I can't tell from catalog photos???
Bull
Bull
Browning Buckmark 22 pistols?
- Thread starter Bull Nutria
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Bull Nutria
Member
thanks thought i would ask
You can add a rail to any of the Buck Marks. They attach where your original sights attach. You can find one example on this web page. There are many others available. They generally run $25-$30 but I have seen cheaper versions.
I bought a rail for my Buckmark that has an adjustable rear sight on it too, got it from Midway. So I can use either optics or irons.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/79...g-buck-mark-pistol-black?cm_vc=ProductFinding
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/79...g-buck-mark-pistol-black?cm_vc=ProductFinding
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
And you'll forever be fighting to keep the screws tight.
Comrade Mike
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The rail needs to come off to disassemble the gun for cleaning. Are you going to re-loctite it every time?
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Have you owned scoped Buckmarks for 26yrs???
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
You guys have obviously never done it. This is not a problem solved with Loctite. 
The problem is rather convoluted. Firstly, the frame is aluminum and will only withstand so much torque anyway. Secondly, the rear sight base/scope mount is what holds the slide in place and there are only two screws. Unlike 99% of the firearms on the market, the gun won't function without one or the other in place. This is the Buckmark's only downfall. If you try to put enough torque on the screws to keep it secure, slide movement will be restricted. All factory rails that I know of use more than two screws. The best being the full length rail on some models. None of the aftermarket short rails work worth a damn. Only the long-discontinued full length B-Square rail. Again, if you know you're going to mount an optic, save yourself a headache and buy one with a factory rail.
The problem is rather convoluted. Firstly, the frame is aluminum and will only withstand so much torque anyway. Secondly, the rear sight base/scope mount is what holds the slide in place and there are only two screws. Unlike 99% of the firearms on the market, the gun won't function without one or the other in place. This is the Buckmark's only downfall. If you try to put enough torque on the screws to keep it secure, slide movement will be restricted. All factory rails that I know of use more than two screws. The best being the full length rail on some models. None of the aftermarket short rails work worth a damn. Only the long-discontinued full length B-Square rail. Again, if you know you're going to mount an optic, save yourself a headache and buy one with a factory rail.
boricua9mm
Member
No issues here using the Tac Sol rail over the past 8 years or so, but I'm using a mini red dot and not a big ole scope.
For what it's worth, Blue Loctite has held my screws just fine, and I haven't had to reapply it either. I have not found any need to remove the rail completely for cleaning. I leave mine attached to the barrel and I only remove the rear screw. I only give it a detailed cleaning after 2,000 rounds. Back when .22 ammo was everywhere, this was more frequent, but now that it is almost non-existent, those detailed cleanings occur less often. For ongoing/routine maintenance, I simply run a CLP'd bore snake through it, lube it and put it away until next time.
I will say that Tactical Solutions makes quality kit for these Brownings. We're not talking UTG level offerings here.
For what it's worth, Blue Loctite has held my screws just fine, and I haven't had to reapply it either. I have not found any need to remove the rail completely for cleaning. I leave mine attached to the barrel and I only remove the rear screw. I only give it a detailed cleaning after 2,000 rounds. Back when .22 ammo was everywhere, this was more frequent, but now that it is almost non-existent, those detailed cleanings occur less often. For ongoing/routine maintenance, I simply run a CLP'd bore snake through it, lube it and put it away until next time.
I will say that Tactical Solutions makes quality kit for these Brownings. We're not talking UTG level offerings here.
The front screw would go into the steel of the barrel and it certainly will hold torque. I don't know what the rear screw goes into. I could take the gun apart to see but I wouldn't automatically guess aluminum at this point. That point is at the back side of where the recoil of the slide is stopped. It might be aluminum. I can't get a magnet in there to tell without taking the screw out to see what it goes in to. I don't have any Locktite at the moment so I'm not anxious to take it apart.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
The front screw is not the problem. It's the rear that screws into the ALUMINUM frame. If there is more than one front screw, like there is with ALL the factory rails, you can leave the rear screw out.
But you said the "screws" (not the "screw") as in "...enough torque on the screws...'. I clearly said I didn't know about the rear screw. Then you switch gears and talk about the slide not working if you put enough torque on. I thought you couldn't put enough torque on the screws to keep them in place. Which is it?
Jlr2267
Member
For me, blue loktite has worked better in steel-to-steel applications, where the fastener can be torqued more heavily. I've had the rear screw on my Buckmark work loose a handful of times in 20 years (with threadlock).
Edit: I'm also fighting the same issue with a Ruger 22/45 Lite front sight mounted on the aluminum barrel shroud.
Edit: I'm also fighting the same issue with a Ruger 22/45 Lite front sight mounted on the aluminum barrel shroud.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
The rear screw is what causes a problem with the slide. Doesn't matter if it's one or both when there's only two. I'm sorry I don't have it right here in front of me, I'm working from memory. :banghead:
flphotog
Member
A little loctite and they work just fine.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I forgot that the front screw went into the barrel.
That would be a tough one. They were only made for a few years and are highly sought after. I don't know why they stopped making them but it's been several years. Wish I'd bought an extra back then. It wouldn't be very difficult to make them if you had access to a mill. Might be easier to find one of the full length factory rails from the 5.5" Target model.
That would be a tough one. They were only made for a few years and are highly sought after. I don't know why they stopped making them but it's been several years. Wish I'd bought an extra back then. It wouldn't be very difficult to make them if you had access to a mill. Might be easier to find one of the full length factory rails from the 5.5" Target model.
Did you read the thread???
Mine seems to not hit hard enough to fire, (light strike the term???), when the rear screw is loose. I don't want to use thread locker for fear of stripping out the hex from repeated cleanings as needed. The lock washer they provide seems useless. This has been an issue since day 1. Love the gun other than that.
Jlr2267
Member
Use blue loctite and it will help a lot, w/out the problem you describe with stripping the bolt head. The Buckmark can be cleaned well enough without taking it down fully. Mine gets a full strip maybe once per year or less.
Woodsman!
Member
My Buck Mark owners manual says not to take the gun apart, just clean the inside of the barrel and breech face area with a brush.
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