Wanted: a Quickload pressure curve chart for 30-30

Hi,
I am curious about pressure curve for my 16" barreled 30-30 that I had chopped from 20".

Would like to get a chart like the following out to 16", for a typical 30-30 factory load with 170gr projectile. You are free to make up whatever velocity and powder values to get a representative pressure.



I would like one for the Remington 170 gr Core-Lokt® Centerfire round or similar typical factory round.

30-30 Win.
170gr
2200 FPS

Tried to download and run the quickload demonstration version, but can not get it to work for the life of me!!! :banghead:

Thanks!

Thanks!
Ha, ha.
My go to load is 28gr of 3031 with a 170gr cast boolit!
So, I will see pressures a little bit smaller than what you posted.

Thanks for the graph! Just what I needed!

The 16" will be for a Marlin 336 Suppressor host!

The suppressor adds another 8" of length, so I had the barrel cut down and threaded to help with the added length and weight of the suppressor.
Most of the powder is burned off before 16" anyways. I may lose some velocity, but not much.

This will be an amazing host, no ejection port noise like on AR platforms.



I was asking about pressures for this reason:

I chopped my 336 barrel and got around to carefully notching the relief slot in the barrel to allow space for the barrel band screw.

When it was all said and done, I had to cut into the barrel about .070".

I did some calculations to determine how much barrel wall I have left under the barrel band screw and here is what I get:

Barrel thickness at notch location = .675"
Bore size = .311" (well, that is what I size my cast bullets at)

So, I subtract the two numbers and get .364".

I then divide by 2 and get the wall thickness of the barrel wall at where the barrel band is and it is .182". Now, I subtract my .070" slot cut and get .112". So, I for sure have more that 1/10" (.100+) of barrel wall thickness underneath the barrel band screw.

I did the same calculation for the factory slot and get a measurement of about .075" - .085" wall thickness, so I am better than factory, but.......I am not sure, maybe my shorter barrel might run at higher pressure and is .112" ok?

So bottom line, am I still ok with a little less than 1/8" (.110"-.115" ish) of barrel thickness under there??

Well, according to Peter's graph, the barrel band at my location will only see like 2000 PSI more and my slot is thicker by .030"-.04" and should account for the higher pressure.

I also checked the fore arm barrel band screw location. The relief is .090", the barrel is .690" thick there and the wall thickness of the barrel is .100" thick. This is 4.5" closer TOWARD the chamber. So, I have been shooting all along with a similar notch in the barrel with no problems. The only difference is my notch widens by about .050" toward the top compared to the factory notches, but this is in the thick part of the barrel.

Walkalong said:

The same powders that work well in a 20" barreled .30-30 will work well in a 16" barreled one.

I don't want a 16" barreled hunting rifle because of muzzle noise/blast (Some people differ with that), but it makes sense to do it for a suppressor.

Click to expand...

Agreed on the short barrel. I would never do it as it makes it really loud. I have a Model 94 Winchester that will stay stock 20" barrel. However, this Marlin 336 will be shot suppressed 99% of the time. I just don't shoot non-suppressed much anymore, its is a lot easier on my sensitive ears.

However, check this out...those were the days...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5JP-sR3aJw

Marlin 336 suppressor host

Here is the rifle set up for a suppressor, cut the barrel, mag tube, spring, cut 3/4" off forearm, and notched the barrel for the barrel band screw .070" deep for .112" barrel thickness left in the barrel band screw location. Should be plenty thick in that location to hold the pressure. Barrel threaded 5/8x24.


Some pictures of my handy work. My slot is ugly, but functional. Once the barrel band is on, no one can see it anyways. Again, the thinnest part of the barrel at that slot point is .112", the slot for the forearm screw makes the barrel .100" thick at that point closer to the chamber. So my slot is not the weakest point, rather the factory forearm slot, which seems plenty strong enough. I am not worried anymore about this.

See my ugly slot!

Sideview of my ugly slot!


Picture of my slot compared to the factory one. My slot is .050" wider at the biggest width (in the thick barrel portion), but not as deep as factory slot. The factory slot left .076" barrel and mine leaves .112" barrel thickness, since I am in a thicker portion of the barrel and didn't go as deep. However I am a little wider. The screw was hitting the sides a lot, so I had to widen the slot accordingly.



Cant wait until my paperwork for my suppressor is approved!

Jesse Heywood said:

I will recommend smoothing out your slot and rounding all the corners on your slot. You don't want to have a crack develop.

Click to expand...

Done as part of shaping the slot!