Want to swage .223 primer pockets

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Bullseye

Bullseye

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Thinking of buying a RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo-2 - 9481
Is this the one for .223 and 5.56x45mm cases. I have an RCBS Rockchucker.
I know they have weak rods by reputation but I'd like to try my hand at making up some ammo in this cartridge and all the brass I come across has to be swaged. THANKS

BOUGHT ONE ( see post #9 )
 
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A helpful tip: adjust the die WAY down far into the press, so that it stops before the handle cams over. Camover is when the rod gets bent. Once I started doing them that way I didn't have to straighten the rod anymore. I use a RS3 and since you have a Rockchucker the problem would be even worse.

I have taken to getting the case started on the rod and the swage button started in the pocket and then 'bouncing' the handle just a bit. For ones that are really hard to pop off of the button I do them again.
 
I disagree the rods are weak.
I also disagree the die should be set at less then full cam-over.

It has to cam over to fully swage the primer pocket.


The rods get bent because of operator error.

To prevent it?
Cases must be sorted by headstamp.

And the rod adjusted to just support the case from the inside, while the primer pocket is being swaged from the outside.

If you have it adjusted to support cases with thinner case heads?
And then keep trying to use it at the same setting on cases with thicker case heads?

The rod will get bent at full cam-over.

As there is no where else for it to go.

Sort the brass, set the rod for them, and Bee Happy.

rc
 
I have to agree with RC on this as well. I just started using this tool a few months ago, and I sort my brass, and I haven"t had any issues using it with full cam over. So far, I think it's a pretty well made tool, I haven't bent the rod as yet and I've used it on a Rock Chucker, an RS, haven't tried it on the RS5 yet.

From what I understand, RCBS has made some improvements to the design, they strengthened the rod, claiming it is more than twice as strong as the original design.

GS
 
I have the original design, I bought in 1970.
I bent a rod early on using mixed GI 30-06.

The RCBS guy on the phone told me why, and sent me a new rod.

I have never bent another rod since in 45 years!

Sort the brass, and adjust the rod for each head stamp / case head thickness!

If it feels like extra pressure?
It is.

Stop, and regroup.

PS: Use case sizing lube on the primer pockets too.
You are moving brass where it don't want to go!!!

Rc
 
It has to cam over to fully swage the primer pocket.
Click to expand...

I can 100% promise you this is not true. I have done thousands of 300 blackout and 308 with the die adjusted to bottom out before the handle cams over.

What about press designs that don't cam over? How would you be able to swage at all on them if camming over is required? Different strokes for different folks, but I promise you this method works best for me.
 
I've used it for many years and never had a problem. Just do as stated above. I also ream the pocket with a single twist of the reamer 1st.
 
I have both the RCBS setup and the CH4D setup and the CH4D is miles above the RCBS design IMHO. Watch the videos of both in operation on you tube. I like it better than a friends Super Swage 600 as well.:neener: It is easier to operate and faster once it is set up. If you buy one get the combo with the ram prime. You can always use a plan B primer tool.
 
I have used the RCBS swagger on 1000s of 223 in a lee press no cam over used it twice in a rock chucked bent pin. Adjust it properly still may bend or...... Dont cam over and NO problems. Good luck
 
I already bought it but thanks, I paid $36.68 shipped. I'll just make sure I sort brass and adjust. They say a little lube helps on the base that goes into the pocket and I'll be careful.
RCBS has been good to deal with when I bust a die part and they are fast at shipping so I'll plod along and get good at this.
 
Done 1000's of brass myself and first was very disappointed. Make good note of RC's ps and use lube. I used a qtip and put a little imperial lube on the nipple every 7 or 8 cases. You'll know when to apply more.
 
Im swaggin now

I got my RCBS primer pocket swager tool - 2 #9481 today and got right to it. Set up was easy enough and I did 64 out of 114 that I have to swage. I know it is working, but before I press in any primers, I only have 1 concern. I have two slightly different headstamps from once fired 5.56 ammo.

The image shows two pockets after I swaged.
The one on the left is almost identical but has No 14 and the one on the right has No 15 stamped on it.
The No 14 pockets have 4 sections while the No 15 have a complete ring that I am swaging. I am sure they are working by the way I can now push onto the nipple by hand.
The issue is that the No 14 have sharp edges that extend out above the pocket. Some worse than others.
Is this a big deal with the sharp edges? Should I just chuck those or load em up once and not mess with them next time?
 
I usually chamfer them lightly after swaging; makes the new primers easier to seat. Hit it briefly with a chamfer tool chucked in a cordless drill immediately after taking them off the swage. That includes both the ring crimp and the 4-stab crimp style. It is a little more work per round but I plan to re-prime them many times so I figure it pays off. It's probably not a necessity so YMMV.
 
Ifishsum:
I usually chamfer them lightly after swaging
Click to expand...

I did and it took off the rough edges and the primers went in nicely, just right. loading them now. Thanks all!
 
After years of trying different types of tools to remove military crimps I took the plunge and bought the Dillon Super Swage for $100. Expensive but it does work and haven't found a way to brake it.
 
The CH4D swage die will keep up with the Dillon tool and it is about $35 to your door.

I saw this thread too late, the RCBS swage die is about the worst solution on the market. It works, but it is slow and clunky as can be. You will never get above plodding pace. :/
 
I had both of them. My RCBS was version 1. I think the CH4D is a better design,

Sold them both as I find it easier to just ream the darn crimps out of there.
 
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