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thanks willypete...now im going to be thinking about that next time i change the oil in my truck

im a bit OCD so....its pretty necessary....something like that would drive me crazy, knowing the new stuff was being contaminated by the old stuff

drooling over a lot for the holidays, but i have narrowed things down to either a: Kahr cw9 S&W M&P 15-22 Ruger Deluxe 10/22 or a 9mm 1911 of some manufacture sub $600

someone mentioned bringing a dog and it made me think: are there any products out there for protecting man's-best-friend's hearing?

Hey guys! It has been a while since my last post. I was wondering: What is the ideal substance to remove ALL oil from a firearm? Will this ideal substance then also need removing? I ask because I figure its a bad idea to mix lubes (or in this case, a lube and a CLP) I have been using...

title?

when i want to go cheap (excluding steel cased ammo) i go for federal every time have tried Remington and WWB...had problems with both...Federal has never let me down though i dont own a Glock (yet) and i have heard that Glocks don't like federal ammo since its slightly weak...can cause issues...

Thoughts on the Taurus model 809 9mm pistol? please, let's not turn this into a Taurus bashing thread. Now, I'm not the biggest fan of Taurus pistols...but quite a few people i know have examples, and they are all pleased with their Taurus purchases. anyone here own one of these or have...

i believe the Browning BDA was/is produced through Beretta, for Browning.

9mm/.40/.45 i know "best" is relative but i'm wondering what you guys come up with i made this thread because my next pistol needs to be polymer, to save weight, and i dont like striker fired guns i heard the FNP/FNX pistols had MIM sears...

would the .357 develop more muzzle velocity from the DE since less gas/pressure is lost? or am i misunderstanding how revolvers work? (more powder compared to auto-loader cartridges to compensate for lost pressure from the gap at the forcing cone?) if i am correct, then how would 9mm and...

hey, i really like lever safeties; they give me a little extra peace of mind, and i also enjoy being 'cocked and locked' i am extremely safe with my guns, and i always try to do as much as i can to educate people about gun safety, but having a lever safety on a gun just seems like an added...

what is the standard recoil spring? and should i get a mainspring, or trigger return spring or any other springs? is there anywhere or anyway else to get an extra slide stop cheaper than the $35ish mark?

to the people that are blaming limp-wristing: there is a video of a guy on YouTube shooting a Colt 1911 through a full mag only holding it with the slightest of a grip...intentionally trying to 'limp-wrist' it, AND he claims it hasnt been cleaned in years and is 'covered in rust'...and it...

this is just my humble opinion from personal experience and as always, YMMV, but i dont even notice a big difference between 9mm and .40...this could be that im not recoil sensitive but i am generally more focused on what im shooting at than what im shooting with...if it doesnt make my hand...

if some of these pistols were women... ...i think they would be working the street corners... but to each their own, right?

i guess im wrong but i thought Sigs had Aluminum slide rails... (Sig p226, p228, p220, etc....)

Probably not more than 10,000 rounds i would think that with proper maintenance that any 1911 would be able to handle this with minimal if any part breakage? am i wrong?

im looking for Durability, Reliability so i assume i dont really Need a high end 1911...would a Springer Mil-Spec fit the bill? is there cheaper that would fit the bill? also i dont plan on shooting any hollowpoints

which MIM parts are the most likely to break? Which are least desireable and should be looked out for? does RIA use a lot of MIM? what about the Remington R1...which parts on it are MIM?