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Thanks! I'll consider fixing this cylinder a little project of mine. If it improves accuracy, I'll ream my other cylnders. I'm thinking about ordering this reamer: https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/bore-barrel-tools/reamers-cutters/revolver-cylinder-throating-reamers/?sku=513000001 Will...

Oh, when I use roundballs I put over the ball. This time however I was using only Kaido slugs.

Factory cones and Remington #10.

I bought the cylinder at a significant discount from a local gun store that was withdrawing from black powder business. So they won't deal with that. Can I mail to EMF (importer of Pietta) directly?

I put grease in the dedicated grease grooves. I didn't use any filler because that bullet takes enough space in the chamber already.

Also It seems that in newer Piettas they beefed up that spot behind bolt notch or it is sloppy machining. I can't tell.

Thanks. I need to ream at most 0.7" so that I can reliably seat a bullet not worrying about sparks going along the scratch.

I used significantly oversized bullet .456 with lube and tight fitting caps. Just like I've been doing for last 6 years with no chainfires. And it so just happens, the chamber that chainfired was the one with that deep scratch inside.

The chambers in 1858 are tapered so I'll need a professional gunsmith look into it. Anyways, chamber walls are on the thinner side in 1858 remington, how much can they be reamed while still being strong enough? Feedback highly appreciated.

Today I experienced my very first chainfire using a new Pietta cylinder. Both I and gun are fine but the cause of chainfire is worth making public to hopefully warn others. The reason was directly me (for not checking all chambers thoroughly before firing) and indirectly Pietta for passing...

It is JB-welded. You can't really fit it over the pin because it would block the hand slot.

Only the very top of the chamber is reamed ("chamber mouth"). It doesn't shave a lead ring, it swaggs the bullet.

I don't have an issue with the shim itself but that it is JB-Welded. I'll look into how it can be drilled and taped.

See post above, it is a genuine ASP cylinder. It has reamed chamber mouths just as any ASP would. Cylinder length is 2.048" and frame opening is 2.062". Shim is ~.014".

More pics:

The timing is OK. No issue there. It is EUROARMS imported ASP revolver. Guys, it is a $99 revolver, I don't know if there is a point in putting amy more work to it. The gunsmith's fee would probably be more than what the gun is worth in the first place.

How did you attach the shim to the brass? Glue or something else? Anyways, did the shim remain attached to the frame after dozens of shots? My worry is that repetetive hits to the shim will cause the JB weld underneath to get crushed and then shim will simply fall off at one point.

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Hello, I can get this beauty at absurd price but there is a but. The reason for a low price is enormous end shake this revolver used to have. It was 'fixed' by glueing a proper width shim to the end of the frame thus reducing the end shake. It seems that JB Weld was used. See: As of now...

I wouldn't trust a muzzle-loader loaded for longer than few days. I did my best trying to degrease the cylinder before loading (with acetone) and then sealing the nipples but still 1st shot was extremaly underpowered. The moisture must have either defeated my counter measures or the grease from...