10-22 help!

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Gary,

To you does it sound like he's using a VQ part to bypass the slide release and just pull back on the slide?

Jack,
Can you confirm? When the slide is locked back, do you have to press the slide release to let the bolt chamber, or can you just pull back on the bolt when it's locked in place and it goes without pressing the slide release?
 
Yeah, that's not what a 10/22 is supposed to do. A stock model is supposed to lock back when you pull the slide back and press and hold the slide lock/release. It is only supposed to release when you pull back on the slide and slide press the lock/release.

Now there's an aftermarket part by VQ that allows you to just pull back on the slide and it will release without pressing the slide lock/release.

Gary's right though, you need to have that missing spring installed before you can go any further.
 
I took the gun to a smith and showed him that I needed a spring (B37) he told me I don't think you need one if you did you would not be able to push the button in! anyway I told him to take a look at it and call me before you do anything.
 
I took the gun to a guy that is pretending to be a smith and showed him that I needed a spring (B37) Since he apparently doesn't have a clue, he told me I don't think you need one if you did you would not be able to push the button in!....
Click to expand...

There! I fixed it for you. :D Lol! The gun was designed withthe spring and, while there have been many improvements and modifications developed outside the factory, no one has yet to prove that it doesn't need that spring.
 
Also tear it down and clean it, lube with CLP or Eexxox and try different ammo preferably cci mini-mags. I bet it will fire no problem.
 
Would someone who knows a 10/22 and lives close to thus guy hook him up? If you were near me we would be shooting it already.
 
way i see it the chamber is buggered up and needs polishing the ejector is bent slightly, and the trigger housing has been tampered with and is missing parts. send me the trigger housing and barrel and i will fix them for you but you need to pay shipping im cheap but im not free LOL
 
I wish I was nearby to help too even though I'm not actually a gunsmith. As said above if I was nearby, we'd already be shooting by now. I have a feeling with this so-called "gunsmith" he is going to be in a bigger mess than when he started, or be out of pocket a ton of money while the guy keeps replacing parts until it works.

Want to sell the rifle? I'd buy it.
 
UPDATE!

just got off the phone with the guy he said he got it to fire 4 out of 5 times with his ammo! and 3 out of 5 with my ammo. He took a look at the firing pin and told me who ever worked on it before had put loctight on it! anyway I'm picking it up and I'm just in 20.00 not to bad!.
 
he said he got it to fire 4 out of 5 times with his ammo! and 3 out of 5 with my ammo.
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Is that before he fixed it, or after.

If after he fixed it, that isn't near good enough.

A 10/22 should run reliably almost forever without a fail to feed, or a fail to fire.

rc
 
I'm looking at the top view (post #57) of the trigger group again and am wondering where's the mag catch spring?
Click to expand...

Considering that the spring is actually inside the trigger group housing itself there is no way to determine it is missing from that photo. Look at the third photo in post #59. If the spring was not in place gravity would be pulling the magazine catch down into the group.
 
Somebody here needs to make a 10-22 gunsmithing video for those that need it.:) I bet it would be a big seller these days.:D I am not a pro gunsmith but usually can figure out my own troubles and make things work safely. I see those that should not even crack an egg in the morning for breakfast claim to be a gunsmith and am just totally dumbfounded.:banghead:
 
This TAUGHT me one thing.........DONT BUY GUNS ON THE USED RACK! I;l still keep it when I get the rod to clean the bore I'l take it apart again maybe that time I can find another brand of ammo! anyway looking to buy a Henry or a new 10 22.
 
Re: The Dirty Chamber

Jack, I had a Ruger Mk 1 22 with a horrible chamber, and I did as rc recommended, but I chucked a short rod with a new 22 bore brush into a cordless drill, and using Hoppes #9 & assorted stuff like JB Bore Paste & patches, I shined that bugger up and cleaned all manner of almost welded-on crud from it. If your chamber is not pitted, try that - when you can access the chamber from the rear it is a very simple process.
 
Monday I will pick up my 10 25! as you guys know I took it to a gunsmith to fix the problem after I tryed so many times. This taught me NEVER BUY USED GUNS!!! the problem was the extractor was rubbing on the bolt and some of the parts were put back in the wrong place and the mag. needed more tension - SO NOW LIFE IS GOOD NOW.
 
jack44 said:
Monday I will pick up my 10 25! as you guys know I took it to a gunsmith to fix the problem after I tryed so many times. This taught me NEVER BUY USED GUNS!!! the problem was the extractor was rubbing on the bolt and some of the parts were put back in the wrong place and the mag. needed more tension - SO NOW LIFE IS GOOD NOW.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't go so far as to say "NEVER BUY USED GUNS". Just know a little bit more about what it is you're looking at buying and, if you can't test fire it beforehand, see what kind of guarantee the seller has. Or, if you know the seller and the history, that's good too.

There are lots of little pieces of advice about buying used...but these top the list for me.

At any rate, if the 10-22 shoots like a charm after you're done, think of all the things you learned about it that you wouldn't have, otherwise! And for $20, not too bad of an experience, apart from the aggrevation.

:)
 
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