10/22 Trigger

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Newbie22

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Hello All,

My first night at the range with my 10/22 was a blast. My only complaint was that the factory trigger was much heavier than I expected. Since I'm only going to use this gun for target shooting, I'd like to find a lighter trigger. Does anyone know of, or themselves own, a nice target trigger? I'm looking for something in the 3.5 lbs range. It's not for any crazy 100 yard bench rest competitions or anything, just indoor 25 yards maximum target shooting.

*edit:

Thanks to everyone who took the time to write up such thorough responses to my post. It's always nice to have clear concise information.

At this point, I'm caught between the different routes I can go with this thing. At first I was leaning towards Volquartsen, since their stuff has the best reviews. But Power Custom seems to be just as good, while costing a little less, and (like everything these days) I'm working on a budget. Now, I also have the Rimfire Technologies option that Red Cent put forward to consider.

What are your thoughts on the different brands? Also, how much do I really need to replace? Most of what I've read indicates that replacing just the hammer will give a vast improvement over the original trigger weight. Do I really need to go buy a hammer, a sear, a disconnect and a trigger?

Thanks Again,
Newbie
 
Last edited:
I saw a DIY video on the web for your factory trigger so before you spend your money GOOGLE 10/22 trigger job and check it out. I am gonna do mine when time permits it wasnt all that complicated mostly involving a little filing and a lot of polishing. From what i've seen in catalogues triggers can be a little pricey or quite expensive.
Good luck
T
 
I droped some Power Custom parts in my 10/22 and it was a big improvement over stock. A good trigger guy could do as good or better just working on the stock parts. Cost me about 60 bucks in parts to get a pretty good safe trigger.
 
For "the best", check out Tony Kidd's stuff at coolguyguns.com. He's got single stage and double stage triggers and they can be adjusted down to 3 oz.

Rimfire Technologies offers a drop in hammer and adjustable sear kit that many over at RimfireCentral swear by.

My latest build I buffed and polished a factory plastic trigger group rather quickly to about a 4 lb pull. My other two have a factory trigger tuned to 2.5 lbs and a Kidd at 8oz/8oz.

There are tons of options in a 10/22 trigger. It's all about how much you're willing to spend, how much work you want to do yourself, and what you want to end up with.
 
I put a Volquartsen target hammer in mine, it dropped from over 7lbs. to 3lbs. without changing any springs. It was a easy install, just seach youtube for video instructions.
I think Midway has them on sale now.
 
I put a Volquartsen target hammer in mine, it dropped from over 7lbs. to 3lbs. without changing any springs.
Click to expand...

I was just about to ask about installing a drop in hammer. To me, they seem like the most cost effective method. What other pros and cons are there to this method?

For "the best", check out Tony Kidd's stuff at coolguyguns.com
Click to expand...

As cool as the stuff Kidd offers is, I'm not looking for that kind of high end job for two reasons. One, its way above my price range. I was hoping to make this upgrade for under $100 (that is doable, right?). Two, I'll never utilize that kind of precision. the only range near me is 50 feet, so that's the distance I target shoot.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, keep 'em coming!
 
IMO it's a mistake to do your own trigger work unless you have experience, while some minor polishing is ok it is very easy to cause more problems then it's worth. I took the CPC route simply he has done thousands plus I wanted the bolt work the combination makes it smoother and more accurate.

The drop in triggers work great however most are more expensive then what Randy charged me for trigger and bolt.


It all comes down to what you can afford and what your needs are. I added bull barrel,Boyd stock and bolt/ trigger work cost around $500 including gun an expensive 10/22 however some spend more, the one I have is a keeper making 50 yard one hole groups with ease.
 
I just put in a Volquartsen target hammer in my 10/22 and it was a no brainer, and I would recommend this before modifying the existing trigger. This is my second Ruger 10/22 and the second Volquartsen target hammer I have installed and it was very simple to do. If you want to spend more you can buy the Volquartsen target hammer, sear and trigger set or the Power Custom set with adjustable pre-travel.

Please note you have read advice above from send it out and let a professional work on it, to do it yourself and this depends on YOUR mechanical ability and experience. If you have a tool box and your own power tools, if you own a hammer and know how to drive a nail, if you change your own oil and have ever put a set of points in a 54 Chevy you can change the parts in a Ruger 10/22. ;)

NOTE: On my first 10/22 I tricked it completely out and I replaced the the hammer & sear, stock and installed a heavy barrel. This time I kept it simple and just replaced the hammer, the trigger has a little take up before let off so if you want to improve this I would go with the Power Custom parts with the adjustable sear. The new Ruger 10/22 went Glock on us and has a plastic trigger housing and trigger so think about how much money you want to spend to have the trigger break like a glass rod.

Below pictorial instructions for replacing the hammer on the 10/22 plus much more. (nothing on working on a 54 Chevy) :D

http://ruger22.com/newpages/sear.htm

Below Midway trigger parts for the 10/22

http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?pageNum=1&tabId=8&categoryId=12919&categoryString=649***20766***9142***11647***

NOTICE: No Ruger 10/22 or 54 Chevys were killed or injured during the making of this posting. :rolleyes:
 
If you can disassemble a 10-22 trigger group and put it back together, buy an adjustable sear.

One or more of these tips/tricks will show you the way.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220

Adjustablesear-1.gif

The hole on the left side uses a set screw to take up the pretravel (slop) of the trigger.

This shows the sear in relation to the disconnect. This does not show the pretravel (slop) but at the bottom where they meet the factory has left empty space between the mating of the sear and disconnect. The adjustment screw takes all of that out.

Triggerseardisconnect.gif

If you want to do the trigger, it is simple.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122386&highlight=cletus+hungwell

If you do not feel comfortable doing this work, then buy this kit.

http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/Hammer_Sear_Kit_p/rt-hskit.htm


I installed the adj sear, stoned the hammer, and a couple of other tricks you relly don't need, but it gave me a 2# pull with no creep and just enough pretravel for a reliaable reset.


Good luck. contact me anytime for info. If I can't tell you we will find someone.
 
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The KIDD triggers are the freakin' bomb, but they're also crazy expensive. More than a standard carbine costs new generally. If you're serious about it, they're worth the money. Otherwise Power Customs or Volquartsen are both good bets for a solid improvement without spending a fortune. Plus, if your the slightest bit handy you can do parts install yourself.
 
The Power Custom kit will give you a very good trigger without doing anything else. To make it even better drill and tap the trigger guard for a small allen set screw for an over travel screw.
 
One of things I like about the 10/22 is the 500 different options for everything. It's the tinkerer in me.
I put a Volquartsen hammer in mine, and it works great at 25 yards. I don't think it is as light as you want to go, but there are smiths who can do that too.
 
Red Cent said:
If you can disassemble a 10-22 trigger group and put it back together, buy an adjustable sear.

One or more of these tips/tricks will show you the way.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220

Adjustablesear-1.gif

The hole on the left side uses a set screw to take up the pretravel (slop) of the trigger.

This shows the sear in relation to the disconnect. This does not show the pretravel (slop) but at the bottom where they meet the factory has left empty space between the mating of the sear and disconnect. The adjustment screw takes all of that out.

Triggerseardisconnect.gif

If you want to do the trigger, it is simple.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122386&highlight=cletus+hungwell

If you do not feel comfortable doing this work, then buy this kit.

http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/Hammer_Sear_Kit_p/rt-hskit.htm


I installed the adj sear, stoned the hammer, and a couple of other tricks you relly don't need, but it gave me a 2# pull with no creep and just enough pretravel for a reliaable reset.


Good luck. contact me anytime for info. If I can't tell you we will find someone.
Click to expand...
+1

If you want to DIY the trigger group the set screw/sear mod is the way to go. With proper stoning and return spring work you can achieve trigger pull weights as low as 8oz.

The 10/22 parts are cheap enough that it makes a good platform for anyone wanting to learn.
 
Thanks to everyone who took the time to write up such thorough responses to my post. It's always nice to have clear concise information.

At this point, I'm caught between the different routes I can go with this thing. At first I was leaning towards Volquartsen, since their stuff has the best reviews. But Power Custom seems to be just as good, while costing a little less, and (like everything these days) I'm working on a budget. Now, I also have the Rimfire Technologies option that Red Cent put forward to consider.

What are your thoughts on the different brands? Also, how much do I really need to replace? Most of what I've read indicates that replacing just the hammer will give a vast improvement over the original trigger weight. Do I really need to go buy a hammer, a sear, a disconnect and a trigger?

Thanks Again,
Newbie
 
I built up several 10/22's, about 15 years ago. I replaced everything excpet the receiver and bolt. I used the Power Custom trigger, sear, hammer accurizing kits and couldn't be happier. They came with springs and shims to make all the trigger parts work very nicely. Even a slave pin to make installation easier. Very nice quality and they just required very, very minor fitting.

These parts are still going strong in my 10/22 and the others I built for friends.
 
You can do it your self. Buy the components from power custom and do it . Go to rimfire central .com lots and lots of tips.
 
I'll jump on the bandwagon here for the Volquartsen hammer. In my 10/22 it made a huge difference. The trigger pull is light and smooth. Interestingly though, I made this same modification to my Ruger Charger and while it does have a lighter trigger pull than the factory setup it is not as light as the one I put in my 10/22. Granted, the Charger only has around 3K rounds through it so perhaps it will get better with age.

I'll also say that had I known about CT Precision sooner I might have went that route. I called them regarding my trigger group having a little bit of side-to-side play. They actually sent me 4 receiver pins free of charge that were oversized over the stock parts and it now locks up tight.
 
I am a extremely picky person. I have only tried the Volquartsen target hammer and it was a great improvement from the factory trigger. I am very satisfied with it and feel no need to try a different trigger for my needs in a 10/22 and it's not a money issue in my decession. I wouldn't put $200 in a $220 dollar rifle to try and make it shoot as good as a CZ or Savage, I would just buy one to begin with or sell it and then get one.
 
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