11-48?

[joesixpack]

I just inherited a Rem 11-48 shotgun from my grandfather. The gun is over 50 years old, but seems to be in pretty good shape, except for a bit of pitting and rust here and there (NOT, from what I can tell, inside the barrell).

Is this a decent gun? Is there anything I should know about it before I put a few rounds through it? I've never cleaned a shotgun before, so I'm not sure how to disassemble it other than taking the barrell off.

My gramps used to go duck hunting with it (he lived in Louisiana), and I'm wondering if I could do the same (I live in south west WA). Keep in mind, I have never hunted before and don't know the first thing about it, but I live in such a great place to do it that it'd be a shame not to.

I'd appreciate any info. Thanks

 

[Preacherman]

There's a brief history of the 11-48 here. Locally, I've seen a few still in use, and those who have them swear by them. However, more modern gas-operated semi-auto's seem to predominate.

 

[joesixpack]

Now I'm going to look REALLY clueless

There's a brief history of the 11-48 here. Locally, I've seen a few still in use, and those who have them swear by them. However, more modern gas-operated semi-auto's seem to predominate.

This is an AUTOLOADING gun? I thought it was manually operated. Being a lefty, I thought I was going to have a hard time getting off a second shot. That's good to know.

Thanks for the link, Preacherman.

 

[Preacherman]

You can read an interesting thread on the 11-48 here. Contact Remington to request an owner's manual for your shotgun (and, hint - do NOT try to disassemble or clean it without the manual!!!)

 

[Red Tornado]

Great shotgun! I have an 11-48 that I also inherited from my Grandpa, and it was my rabbit/quail/dove gun forever. Still is actually. I like it so much, I bought another one from Dakotasin on THR in 12ga to match it.

My 20 ga went several years between cleaning, because I didn't know how to break down/properly clean it at the time either. Never missed a beat. However, it does need to be cleaned eventually.

I'll see if I can find a manual online, somewhere, but Remington will send you one.
Good shooting,
RT

 

[Fred Fuller]

joe,

They are GREAT guns. Having one left to you by your grandfather makes it all the more special. I have a Sportsman 48 in 12 ga (28" MOD plain barrel), a little later manufacture but mechanically the same, and I like it a lot.

DO get yourself a manual in hand before taking the gun apart for cleaning. I don't see one at Remington's website, they might supply one if you called- I don't know. Do ask Remington about the date of manufacture of your gun when you call, just give them the serial number and they can tell you the year it was made.

If you can't get a manual from Remington, there is a reprint available at http://www.rediscovered-shooting-treasures.com/remington11-48.htm for a few dollars.

A few things about the design-
1) Note the extra 'slot' on the Remington 1100 receiver behind the slot for the bolt handle that likely isn;t there on your 11-48 receiver. It's there to allow the receiver to flex a bit without cracking. A number of 11-48 receivers (mostly guns that were shot A LOT) developed a crack at the back of the bolt handle slot. Gunsmiths would drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it from going any further, and the gun was fine.

2) As a 'long recoil' design (like the Browning Auto-5), the gun depends on both springs and a friction bushing to operate properly. Be sure the friction bushing is in good shape and in its proper place before shooting the gun. Be sure the main operating spring inside the forearm is in good shape too. If the gun was shot a lot, that might need to be replaced. The friction bushing operates on the outside of the magazine tube- that area should be clean and not overly lubricated. Many modern lubricants are too 'slick' to be used here- a very light coat of the same sort of oil used on Browning autos (like single grade auto engine oil) should do to prevent rust.

There is also a bolt return spring that operates in a steel sleeve in the stock. If the bolt is sluggish in returning to battery, this area may need some attention. See the manual for information.

3) Don't let the bolt slam forward if the barrel isn't properly in place. It'll ding the front of the ejection port.

Enjoy the gun, be careful with it as with all firearms,

lpl/nc

 

[Rpriestlyjr]

Take her and shoot away. Just be advised that you should note the choke of the barrel. If it is 'full,' don't shoot steel shot from it. You'll ruin the barrel.
If its 'modified,' have a time with it.
You really don't need to take it apart much. Just removing the barrel will suffice most of the time. But if you want to remove the bolt, trigger group, etc... :

-use a brass punch to push the two pins out of the receiver.

-remove the trigger group (it just comes right out)

-wiggle the bolt a bit and it will come out.
(keep in mind of where the two long doo-hickeyes go)

-scrub it down and put it back togetner

-perform function check and wait for hunting season