12guage crimps coming undone

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the crimps on my 12guage shells are coming undone after a few days of sitting around

im using winchester AA shells what should i do i keep them from uncrimping i tried using less shot and it still does it

should i put i drop of glue on the center?
 
im using a mec single stage

im the charge bar is for 1 1/8 oz and a 28 which makes it about 19.1 gr of unique

im not too sure on the wads its some that my brother in law had laying around when he gave me the press
 
i hate hearing "gave me....." lol. line up one of the indents to the front when starting the crimp......other thoughts, mebbe wads for the wrong shell length
 
In a friendly way, perhaps we can encourage you to educate yourself more on reloading.

As tlen is pointing out, shotshell loads are VERY specific to each particular combination of hull, wad, powder charge and the weight of the shot charge. For a 1-1/8oz load, you use a specific wad made for 1-1/8oz of shot. Once you select your wad and hull, you use the correct loading chart to choose the powder charge. You don't mix and match.

If the components properly selected, your MEC will make a beautiful crimp every time, and it will hold shut.
 
Sounds like your wad is too long, maybe? How many times have your hulls been loaded? I too use AA hulls but when they have a lot of loads on them they do goofy stuff like not completely close tight, crimp looks good but has a small hole that doesnt close in the center and leaks shot if #8 or smaller. What exactly is the crimp doing when it undoes itself?

Like said before, shotshell loads REQUIRE you to use the EXACT components listed in recipe or you could be inviting disaster.

Do you have an actual shotshell reloading manual? I have a lyman that I really like. Full size hull cutaways, full color, VERY accurate hull descriptions etc.
 
Like others have pointed out, the wads you are using maybe for a lighter shotweight(7/8oz or 1oz).
If there is a number on the wad itself, it may help to identify the wad.

Failing that, I would suggest buying a bag of wads for your intended load weight, that you have loading data for.

If that doesn't solve your issue, then your started on the right track, anyways.
 
ok i know the wads are for the right shot amount i was talking brand

i have four different bags of wads one for 7/8, 1,1 1/8 and 1 1/4

ive read two books on it and i finally got a load holding for more than a week so im reverting the press to what i had it set for that box


im just trying to figure why loads using the same ammount of shot and powder that the wad charge bar and load data i have are coming undone
 
If your hulls are aged, with alot of loadings on them, they might need a firmer crimp. To stop them springing back.

But if your hulls are hardened around the mouth/crimp folds. It might be time to look for some new ones or even once fired, from a local range.

To get you by, for now, you might be able to try using a 1 1/4oz wad for your 1 1/8oz shot load (using powder charge for 1 1/4oz, you can add shot, upto 1 1/4oz, if needed to get the correct level). And then placing an overshot card before crimping.

This will stop shot spilling out, if they spring open slightly. It's not the best situation, as shotshell loading should be followed carefully for every component.

If you have a hollow hole punch about 11/16". You can make the overshot cards from thin scrap cardboard.
 
There is one other thing about the AA Hulls

If the press was set up for those hulls you shouldn't have to adjust the press, and it occurs to me that your powder, if older, may have absorbed some moisture making it take more volume or compress less?

There is one other thing I can think of:

(If I missed this in the thread, forgive me.) AA Win hulls went to a HS version a couple years ago that have a separate base wad. In some loads the wad must seat into this base wad and the only way to do it (and advice I found at one time at Winchesters site) was to hold the seating stroke for a two count with 30 pounds set wad pressure. When I dwell for a second I can watch the ram on my MEC 9000G move down as the wad seats.

I reload a fair number of shells each year to feed my skeet shooting habit (about 10,000 registered targets a year), and this is especially true with AAHS 20 gauge hulls, but the advice I found on the Win site was for a 12 and it worked for me. One symptom of this, besides the blossoming crimp, is occasional wrinkling of the hull between the brass and the shot cup area. You can try this. Costs nothing.

The advice you're receiving is sound - the real problem is that the shot column is too long and reducing the wad height (a different wad), or the powder height (a lighter load or different powder) are really the only two options. Shot sharge is usually not a winner in this one as the wad becomes the edge of the shell fold.

I have found that some recipies published as part of a manufacturers web site or manual simply do not work. The Win AA HS 28 hull with the Win HS 28 wad and Universal Clays as published at Hodgdons site is simply too tall a recipe to close on the hulls. (Newer version of that hull is longer, but you get the idea.)

Started reloading STS Remingtons for some things, but they have their own stories....

Good luck, and be safe! I have no "old and bold" reloader friends...:D
 
where can you find shot to make reloading shell worthwhile anymore? i still have~40-50lbs but its just as cheap to go buy bulk packs for me now
 
where can you find shot to make reloading shell worthwhile anymore?

1858rem,
Shotmakers are wonderful devices for saving dollars, if you have access to a cheap lead supply.
But if your able to reguarly get great deals on bulk shotshells, and they fit your needs. It's hard to beat, cost wise by reloading.
 
Cost Savings?

I quit reloading 12 ga when lead went to $40 a bag. It's down some now - I use Kens Reloading in Michigan, but he's a regional source. Still cheaper for 20/28/410 and I like my stuff better. Shipping lead is always a problem.:banghead:
 
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