.17 HMR Accuracy Questions/Suggestions...

[TeamRush]

If this subject has been beat to death, sorry about starting over.
I didn't see any recent threads on the .17 Rimfire, so I though I'd ask questions...

I recently came into some CHEAPER versions of the .17 HMR and .17 Mach2 rifles, and I'm wondering if anyone has taken the time to try and accurize them....

One is the Marlin model 917VR in .17 HMR.
It's synthetic stock, medium weight barrel. Nothing really special...

Before ever firing the first shot, I reduced the trigger weight by about 2/3,
Cleaned several layers of crap out of the barrel down to bare metal,
And cleaned/lubed the action.
(The usual stuff you do before breaking in a barrel)

I then broke in the barrel, about 10 rounds with cleaning between each round,
Then about 20 rounds, fired 2, then cleaned, fired 2 again...

The barrel 'Came In' about like I expected, but my bore scope is larger than .17 Cal, so I really couldn't inspect to see if the tool marks and such has been burnished in properly...

I was wondering if any of you have had a enough experience with .17 rifles to tell me what else I need to be doing to make a .17 cal shoot better...

I'm not really happy with the groups yet, and it's not really coming in like the Ruger and Savage rifles are...
It's had about 150 rounds through it, and I brush/swab the bore after about every 10 rounds so the barrel doesn't foul...

Should I be cleaning this rifle more often?
IS there something I'm missing with the .17 HMR that I should (or shouldn't) be doing?
Anyone got any ideas on how to make this rifle shoot better (besides trading it)?

 

[loadedround]

Hopefully I can answer some of your questions from my experience. On a whim I purchased a new Savage 17HRM at an auction. I had to correct the horrible trigger pull which was an easy job, and glass bedded the action since its heavy barrel was already free floating and mounted a decent scope. Much to be surprise this rifle shot sub 1/2" groups at 100 yds and and just slightly larger at 150 yds. All shooting was with Hornady HP ammo. Mine's a keeper, and the only complaint is the price of the 17HMR ammo.

 

[rangerruck]

you've cleaned to much for now; also that is a heavy bbl marlin, they only do pencil bbls, and heavy bbls; You may have a diff idea of what a heavy bbl is, but that is it. I would also channel out the stock some more , whether you think it needs it or not, IT NEEDS IT!. also make sure it has the bbl lug up front, sometimes these are missing.
now then a couple of things you can do, trash the stock and get a laminate or wood one, that would be first. if you do not wanna do that, make the lug a permanent fixture in the bottom of the bbl, and shem the inside of the stock, where the reciever fits down into, with aluminum tape, and make it darn , non wiggly , tight.
17's can be a bit curious as to it's settling down time, I find, that you cannot really tell, until you have put at least 500 rounds down the tube.
Lastly, their is currently about 15 diff loads of hmr ammo out there, try them all, keep a record of the lot numbers. I find that overall, either one of the cci products is going to work well, or Winchester Supremes really shine. but a few dudes I know, have great success with feddies or Hornies, so keep trying. If it is not shooting sub moa at 100 yds, then you , or the rifle, still has a problem.
The stock marlin should outshoot everything around it, and usually will run with CZ's, and you normally have to buy a much higher end, quality piece, to beat it. And that includes ruger, which can't shoot well, but is overpriced anyway.

Oh yeah; stop all that damn cleaning, just buy 2 boresnakes, one for wet, and one for dry.
accuracy should not fall off , for about 50 rounds; when it does, take a boresnake, and slop it through wet a couple of times, with hoppes, and some oil on it if you like, damping it on a rag between pulls, 3 pulls is enough. then switch to your dry boresnake, 3 pulls is enough, damping between pulls. then reshoot.

Remember this is marlin with microgroove, that is like baby wave ridges in a kiddie lap pool.
you are very unlikely to get copper fouling anyway, because of less cutting/ bullet deformation.

the dude above, you have got an exceptionally good Savage, especially if it doesn't prefer
the 20 grainers.

 

[TeamRush]

I've been sampling different ammo from everywhere I go...
Winchester, CCI, Federal, Ect.,
Both 17 and 20 grain, hollow point, solid point, ballistic tip...

It's well inside an inch at 100 yards now off bags, but it seems a little 'Flighty', one time you will get an exceptional group, the next time you will get a string up or down instead of a cluster group...

With bullets this small, it's VERY DIFFICULT to make 'One Ragged Hole' with this thing!

Anyway, I have a Savage in .17 Mach II, a Savage light barrel in .17 HMR (which is for sale),
If I run into a Savage with Accutrigger and heavy barrel, I'd consider working with it, but with CRAP trigger and soda straw thin barrel, there really isn't any point!

And I have this Marlin with the medium weight barrel.
(This thicker barrel is a LONG WAY from a 'Bull Barrel', but might be called a 'heavy Barrel' considering the soda straws I've seen on the .17 rifles!)

I'm actually having FUN with this .17 HMR!
I haven't had 'FUN' with a Rimfire since I was in high school... 30 some years ago!

I REALLY like what it does to Crows and Cowbirds!
Just makes them a GORY MESS!
A .223 or .22-250 couldn't mess up the crows any worse!
Kind of made me sick when I saw the results of crow and cowbird popping yesterday...

I've done in the SECOND ground hog with it!
There is no running off! If you hit the ground hog, HE'S DONE FOR!
Saves me LOTS of time at the reloader cranking out .223 or .22-250 rounds also!

I hear you about the cost! MAN, I would expect them to be the same price as .22 LR or .22 WMR rounds...
BUT THEY AIN'T!

I'm getting screwed for between $11 and $15 for a 50 box around here!
-------------------------------------------------

Sorry man, I'm old school and MILITARY about cleaning rifles.
I wear out rods, not bend or loose them!

I have a .17 bore snake that I use at the range or when we are varmint plinking, but the idea of a SECOND one to dry things out with hadn't occurred to me yet!
Thanks for that tip!

Digging out that darned bronze/copper brush in those things is a pain!
I use Nylon brushes because my copper solvent removes the bronze on the bore snakes in short order, and working the factory brush out can be a pain!

Anyway, if you guys have any more tips for the rimfires, or anyone else does, I'd sure be glad to hear them!

 

[benzy2]

My 17hmr has always run better dirty. It settles down after 25 or so rounds. Don't know why but it gets better the dirtier it runs. I found it of benefit to secure the front lug to the barrel. Mine was threaded all the way through. I bought a grub screw and screwed it in to make the lug solid with the barrel. Taking out the slack and bedding up to the lug has worked well for me.

 

[Teacher75482]

Just shoot the thing

Mine, Savage with regular barrell and cheap sweet 17 shoots drt on everything I shoot.

Never cleaned the barrel, probably never will. Bought mine a few years back on a whim and have no regrets. Good shooting little gun. Mine likes CCIs best but everything I shoot is accurate enough to hit a squirrel in the eye as far as I care to shoot.

 

[rangerruck]

i BET you really love that mach 2; I am still looking for the savage, made with the synth stock, pencil bbl, in mach 2. Has to be the perfect field hunting rifle, and it must weigh about nothing.

 

[TeamRush]

It's pretty light, and I've taken it hunting once, but it's REALLY hard to find solid bullets for the HM2!
The ballistic tip bullets make a MESS out of squirrels, so I'm a little reluctant to use them hunting.

The HMR is coming in nicely,
Took the advice on getting 'Wet' and 'Dry' bore snakes, and they seem to do a VERY good job of cleaning,
Nearly as good at the rod and lots of elbow grease!

Anyway, I'm having REAL fun with these little 'Stinger' rounds so far! Not having to pick up brass for an hour after shooting is a big PLUS also!

Not having to wear heavy duty hearing protection is a good deal also!

Anymore suggestions or comments?! I'm all 'Ears'!

 

[NCsmitty]

You'll find that the 20gr bullets are less prone to violent fragmentation with their heavier jackets compared to the 17gr.
In my NEF, the 20gr shoots about 50% larger groups than the 17gr ballistic tip Hornady's.
And yes, the HMR's cost too much to start with.

NCsmitty

 

[sbarkowski]

My Savage heavy barrel shoots better when its dirty, maybe your cleaning way too much. Plus the rifling isnt very deep on .17's I'd be careful how I clean and what I use to do it.

 

[rangerruck]

in your mach 2 rifle, get a hold of some, 17 aguila rounds, solid points or hollow points. they are a bit shorter, using a true22lr case, and they only do about 2000 fps from the muzzle. they are usually not as accurate as regular m2 ammo, but generally they are still are pretty near moa accurate , and also generally hunting accurate. The most consistent ammo in the 17 world is eley, they only make m2 ammo though, they are finally getting their act together, on consistent, perfect crimping , with
proper runnout length. No one else does this, that includes on 17 hmr ammo as well, that is why you can get flyers out of nowhere.
If you have the time, when you find an 17hmr ammo you like, CALIPER THOSE BABIES!!!! keep them the same length, and rim thickness, as much as possible.
this will cut out those wild from nowhere flyers.

if you search around a bit on thenet, you can find 17 hmr ammo for 10 bucks or less.

 

[Sunray]

As with any rimfire, you have to try a box of as many brands and bullet weights as you can to find the ammo your rifle shoots best. Then think about spending money on the rifle.

 

[LTR shooter]

Remember this is marlin with microgroove, that is like baby wave ridges in a kiddie lap pool.
you are very unlikely to get copper fouling anyway, because of less cutting/ bullet deformation.

The 17HMR Marlin barrels are not the Micro-Groove variety but utlizes a conventional rifling style.

I have a Marlin 17V. It does shoot pretty well with the original Hornady load. I have it in a laminated thumbhole stock. But it also shot well with the factory wood stock.

When the accuracy of my 17V went to pot a good cleaning , like you would perform on a centerfire rifle , restored the accuracy.

 

[TeamRush]

I'm pretty happy with it so far...
Actually both rifles are working better than I figured they would with all the hype surrounding them.

Usually the more noise, the less you get for your money!

Still looking for a solid head load to use hunting, but I'm taking the .17 HMR out for some ground hog harassment this week, so we'll see what it can do to a 'Whistle Pig'!

 

[rodensouth]

I have a Savage bull barrel .17 hmr and have punched a lot of paper with it. Although it seems counterintuitive, I would definitely agree with an above post that it shoots significantly better "dirty". I was cleaning as I would my other rifles initially, and it would group 1 to 1.5 inch at 100 with multiple ammo types.
One day I put 100 or so rounds through it and had forgotten my cleaning supplies. After 50 rounds it shot much better and now consistently shoots 1/2 inch groups with the hornady. Other ammo opens up to about an inch. I'm not cleaning the barrel until it shoots worse.

 

[Matrix187]

Do these guns really require breaking in? I've shot 340 17 gr Hornady VMAX rounds and it all groups bad at 100 (roughly 3 inches). Im going to try 20 grain XTP's and see if it improves. I have a Savage Classic T 17 hmr /w Mueller 4.5-14 APV.