Hey guys, I just got an old 1851 Uberti, in mint condition, possibly unfired. I took it to the range this weekend, and as I went to load my .375 Hornady balls on top of 20g Pyro P, they literally fell in the cylinder without any resistance! They are snug in the barrel (I pressed a few at the muzzle just as a check). Is it normal that the cylinder would have that much of a size difference? I can't believe it is warped out of size...it looks pristine everywhere. Just worried that a too-large ball will spray shavings as it enters the barrel,. Thanks, Hez
1851 Colt "Problem"
- Thread starter Hezekiah
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You might want to try a .380 size ball. It should not just drop in. You want a thin ring of lead shaved off when you seat it in the chamber. That will give you a good tight seal. Too loose and the ball can move forward in adjacent chambers when the gun is fired. Its also good insurance against chain fires (with a correctly sized ball, I personally use a wad between the ball and powder) along with proper size caps to minimize the chance of that.
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robert garner
Member
I had the exact same problem with mine! found a .385 mold on E-bay,problem solved.The ball is shaved going into the chamber, then swaged going into the barell,no it wont spit shavings atcha.
Does your rifling appear to be exceptionally deep too? Hang on your gonna enjoy the ride.
robert
Does your rifling appear to be exceptionally deep too? Hang on your gonna enjoy the ride.
robert
Fingers McGee
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The Log Cabin Sport Shop http://www.logcabinonline.com/index1.html
arcticap
Member
Track of the Wolf in Elk River, Minnesota, $9/100 + shipping for hand cast:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/TableList.aspx?catID=2&subID=25&styleID=58
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/TableList.aspx?catID=2&subID=25&styleID=58
Chawbaccer
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Should be able to get a single cavity Lee mold for around 20 bucks
Get the DOUBLE cavity LEE mold for a couple bucks more. I have cast thousands of .454 balls with my LEE DC mold. I have been waiting for over a year for a 6 cavity custom gang mold for the .454. Get the LEE .380 Double cavity mold. Part number 90423 try any of the mail order reloading suppliers like Mid south, Nachez, Midway, etc
DMF38
Member
I used to buy the .380 Speer balls and they fit perfectly, shaving the ring of lead. The .375 Hornady's were too small. Now I cast my own, and I find that the .375 Lee mould works just right. The .380 Lee was a little too tight. I cast the balls with pure lead of course. My gun is also an 1851 Uberti.
Shoot The Moon
Member
I run my Uberti 51 on RB cast in a Lee double cavity mold, for exactly the reason you stated. I get a ring of lead shaved every time now.
Zombiphobia
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you didn't mention the caliber of the gun... that might help.
Allison
Member
Not long ago I picked up a .36 cal. brass frame Leech and Rigdon type revolver. Date code is XX7 which, I think, means 1971 and it's also stamped with what looks like the end of a gun barrel with the letter U inside so maybe it's a Uberti. As far as I can tell it's never been fired and is made as well or better than my new Ubertis. There is a serial number on the frame but no corresponding number on the barrel. Did Uberti only stamp the frame back then or do I have a replacement barrel?
The chambers on this gun also measure exactly .380" (barrel grooves at .370") which kind of rules out using a .380" ball as I won't get any lead shaving. I see where Track of the Wolf offers a .389" ball and was wondering if this is too large and would be difficult to ram into the chamber? Also, would the ball (at .380") be too large for the barrel. Looking forward to shooting this one and would appreciate any advice.
The chambers on this gun also measure exactly .380" (barrel grooves at .370") which kind of rules out using a .380" ball as I won't get any lead shaving. I see where Track of the Wolf offers a .389" ball and was wondering if this is too large and would be difficult to ram into the chamber? Also, would the ball (at .380") be too large for the barrel. Looking forward to shooting this one and would appreciate any advice.
Allison - You'll get a better response if you start a new thread with your questions rather than adding them to the end of a thread about someone else's gun. That's called hijacking and isn't generally appreciated. Many people who have read this thread and believe it's finished will not return to it, and so will miss your question. You'll lose some valuable advice as a result.
Uberti's marking practices have varied considerably over the years. In addition, some people have been known to add or remove serial numbers on their guns. The lack or presence of a serial number on the barrel assembly can't be taken to mean the barrel was or was not the factory installed barrel.
Where did you take the chamber diameter measurement? Chamber mouths are occasionally chamfered to ease swaging the ball into the chamber, so if you just measured the chamber mouth you may not be getting the correct number. You need to swage an oversize ball down into the chamber and then push it back out from the nipple hole, then measure the swaged ball diameter to get a true picture. A .380 chamber is very unusual.
If the chambers are truly .380 then you will need to use .389 balls. They should not be too difficult to load if they're soft lead; alloyed lead will not work in this case. Also, the large difference between the chamber and groove diameters means soft lead is a must. If it were my gun I'd get a new cylinder.
Uberti's marking practices have varied considerably over the years. In addition, some people have been known to add or remove serial numbers on their guns. The lack or presence of a serial number on the barrel assembly can't be taken to mean the barrel was or was not the factory installed barrel.
Where did you take the chamber diameter measurement? Chamber mouths are occasionally chamfered to ease swaging the ball into the chamber, so if you just measured the chamber mouth you may not be getting the correct number. You need to swage an oversize ball down into the chamber and then push it back out from the nipple hole, then measure the swaged ball diameter to get a true picture. A .380 chamber is very unusual.
If the chambers are truly .380 then you will need to use .389 balls. They should not be too difficult to load if they're soft lead; alloyed lead will not work in this case. Also, the large difference between the chamber and groove diameters means soft lead is a must. If it were my gun I'd get a new cylinder.
Allison
Member
Mykeal:
Sorry about that. Wasn't thinking. Thanks for the heads up.
I measured the chambers with a .380" gage pin. It went in about
1/4" then started to seize up. The chambers are chamfered about
.020" deep. Is it possible to get a cylinder without the engraving?
I'll try your ball swaging method. Thanks.
Sorry about that. Wasn't thinking. Thanks for the heads up.
I measured the chambers with a .380" gage pin. It went in about
1/4" then started to seize up. The chambers are chamfered about
.020" deep. Is it possible to get a cylinder without the engraving?
I'll try your ball swaging method. Thanks.
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