1866 Uberti in .38 Special

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RWMC

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I have been intrested in buying an Uberti Model 1866 rifle. It has a 20" octagon barrel and is chambered for in .38 Special. I realize with the brass frame of these firearms that one should only use standard velocity, lead bullet rounds. Do most Cowboy Action Shooters reload .38 spl. with black powder, or do they just use mild, target velocity smokeless powder loads? Do any of you own or have fired an Uberti 1866? Do they have any common problems ( besides the price! )? I plan on just using it for hunting small game and for informal targets out to 200 yards max. Thanks all for your input!
 
I have one in 44-40. Its a fun rifle. I reload cowboy ammo with smokeless powder. I just got finished loading a lot of 45 Colt using Trail Boss, which is a smokeless powder that is shaped like a Cheerio, and takes up more space in your case, but still not as much space as black powder.

Trail Boss worked well, but no better than Unique or W231.
 
They are fine rifles. You can use them just fine with smokeless powder. If you're buying ammo, any standard .38 special round will work -- no +P, please. The problem isn't the brass frame -- the frame is plenty strong. The problem is the toggle link action, which doesn't really lock up the way that more modern designs do. As a result, a high pressure round can conceivably blow the bolt straight out the back of the receiver. Even with safety glasses on, that's a bad thing.

I have an 1866 in 44-40 that I load primarily with black powder, but most cowboy shooters use smokeless. Good choices are the Trail Boss mentioned by Lone Gunman, or HP38, Hodgdon's Clay's, etc.

As for common problems, there are two. The first is that there is a little tab on the back of the loading gate (aka, the "ladle"). That tab acts as a cartridge stop. On a lot of these guns, the tab breaks off, which allows cartridges to get pushed out of the mag tube get behind the gate. At that point, the gun jams up and has to be disassembled, and you'll need a new loading gate. If you are concerned about this possibility (cowboy competitors are, because it will ruin a match), then you can replace the factory ladle with an aftermarket one that is stronger. Or, you can weld the back of the tab to strengthen it. Personally, I wouldn't bother, if I was you. If yours breaks, get it fixed. The part is only about $10.

The other problem is that the mag tubes can get rust in them, and that will bind up the follower. To prevent this, be sure to clean your mag tube periodically. You have to remove the plug at the muzzle end of the tube to do so, and it can be VERY hard to remove it the first time without buggering it up, so be careful. It has a long, then slot that no screwdriver will fit just right. Some guys use the (non-sharpened) side of a hacksaw blade and get a good fit. I used a stiff putty knife on mine. If you can't get it to budge, trying soaking it in Kroil for a while.

That's brings up one more thought. Uberti uses a fairly soft steel for their screws, and they apparently have a gorilla with an impact wrench who tightens them at the factory. Far too many guys bugger up screws trying to disassemble their 1866 and 1873 rifles for the first time. Get a good set of hollow ground gunsmith screwdrivers and go slow. If you do bugger one up, you can get replacements cheaply from VTI Gun Parts.
 
If you buy the rifle and stick with factory loaded cartridges buy the ones labled as "Cowboy Action Loads".
These are mild and plenty safe in an Uberti brass frame rifle.
If you handload, stick with loads designed for the .38 long colt.
4 grains of Alliant Unique or Winchester 231 under a 140-160 grain lead bullet is a safe and effective handload for this type of rifle.

You can loosen and stretch the frame of one of these rifles using overpowered loads but as stated, if you get to this point you will also be having problems with the toggle links by this stage.
 
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