I'm real close to buying a 1911, but I see many post refering to making adjustments. Is this something that all 1911 require on a regular basis. Say every 500 rounds. I have a Beretta 92S that has run flawlessley for the last 11 years / 1500+ rounds.
1911 Adjusting
- Thread starter aeroscout
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M2 Carbine
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I've got a number of 1911 pistols and clones (Kimbers).
One a GI Remington 1911A1 I bought in the early 60's ($17).
The only "adjusting" I've ever done is replace the recoil spring after a few years and replaced a couple worn out sears and disconnectors in the GI pistol.
I've also got a Rock Island Armory 1911 that came with several bad springs that had to be replaced.
"1911tuner" is an expert on the 1911 and could probably give you the expected "life" on the 1911 parts and what to look for.
One a GI Remington 1911A1 I bought in the early 60's ($17).
The only "adjusting" I've ever done is replace the recoil spring after a few years and replaced a couple worn out sears and disconnectors in the GI pistol.
I've also got a Rock Island Armory 1911 that came with several bad springs that had to be replaced.
"1911tuner" is an expert on the 1911 and could probably give you the expected "life" on the 1911 parts and what to look for.
Aeroscout:
Older 1911 style pistols made by Colt and U.S.G.I. contractors worked fine, and didn’t need any “adjustments,†but more recent production by some makers do have problems because of their attempts to use so-called modern technology and materials to make certain parts where such materials and methods shouldn’t be used. The situation is compounded by a lack of truly experienced assemblers who understand how to correctly assemble the pistol, and management that is unwilling to give them the necessary time too do it right.
While it would be wrong to condemn all guns and makers, the fact is that because of its design the old 1911 cannot be made as it should be for a price most buyers want to pay. The flat out truth is that if you want to have a truly well made and reliable 1911 you are going to have to pay a premium – either for the gun as originally made, or having an ordinary one rebuilt to the guns original specifications. In saying this I mean the quality of the parts, and the skills of an experienced gunsmith, not the particular cosmetic appearance or “looks†the gun has.
Other handguns being currently offered – Glock’s, Beretta’s SIG’s, Ruger’s etc. – don’t, for the most part, have the problems associated with current 1911 style pistols because they are designed to take advantage of newer manufacturing technologies.
Older 1911 style pistols made by Colt and U.S.G.I. contractors worked fine, and didn’t need any “adjustments,†but more recent production by some makers do have problems because of their attempts to use so-called modern technology and materials to make certain parts where such materials and methods shouldn’t be used. The situation is compounded by a lack of truly experienced assemblers who understand how to correctly assemble the pistol, and management that is unwilling to give them the necessary time too do it right.
While it would be wrong to condemn all guns and makers, the fact is that because of its design the old 1911 cannot be made as it should be for a price most buyers want to pay. The flat out truth is that if you want to have a truly well made and reliable 1911 you are going to have to pay a premium – either for the gun as originally made, or having an ordinary one rebuilt to the guns original specifications. In saying this I mean the quality of the parts, and the skills of an experienced gunsmith, not the particular cosmetic appearance or “looks†the gun has.
Other handguns being currently offered – Glock’s, Beretta’s SIG’s, Ruger’s etc. – don’t, for the most part, have the problems associated with current 1911 style pistols because they are designed to take advantage of newer manufacturing technologies.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Adjusting the 1911
"Adjusting" is a pretty vague term. Adjustments on the 1911
can range from tuning/tensioning the extractor to hand-fitting
the barrel...It depends on what needs adjusting, if anything.
As Fuff noted...if the gun is right to start with, and has good small parts in it, you'll probaby go broke trying to buy and shoot enough ammo in it
to knock it out of whack or break it... discounting reasonable periodic maintenance, that is.
Springs get tired and need to be replaced at some point...but unless the gun is fired a lot, good springs will outlive you. Cleaning and a drop of oil in key areas is part of the program. Malfunctions with the pistol are most
often traced to the magazine or the ammo...assuming that everything else is in spec. Extractors can and do cause problems, but a good extractor
is usually something that can be tuned once and forgotten for years, other than periodic removal for cleaning. Most recent production 1911s and
variants don't come with good extractors...Fact of life these days...Ditto
for magazine springs.
The other problem of late is in the use of what I call "Near Steel" in the
production of small parts within the gun...including the critical trigger /fire control group parts. One thing that I do know...MIM is here to stay unless
the manufacturers cave in to our demands for better parts...which isn't likely, even if we accept higher retail prices. Profit is the driving force,
followed by sales volume. Pricey guns don't sell in high numbers...Another
fact of life. If it weren't true, the custom builders and high-end smiths
couldn't meet the demand.
So... we buy the gun and either send it off for an upgrade...do the upgrade ourselves...or just shoot it until someting breaks or fails, and we..either
send it off to be fixed or fix it ourselves. Except for a few critical areas,
DIY upgrades aren't that hard to do, and most tinkerers have good results
with most pistols...Others open a can of worms and wind up sending it away for repairs and adjustments.
Do a search on "Ken's Drop-In Trigger Job" for an example of what can go wrong. There are other stories in the same catregory that went perfectly.
It all depends on how close the gun and the parts kit is to spec...
Luck!
Tuner
"Adjusting" is a pretty vague term. Adjustments on the 1911
can range from tuning/tensioning the extractor to hand-fitting
the barrel...It depends on what needs adjusting, if anything.
As Fuff noted...if the gun is right to start with, and has good small parts in it, you'll probaby go broke trying to buy and shoot enough ammo in it
to knock it out of whack or break it... discounting reasonable periodic maintenance, that is.
Springs get tired and need to be replaced at some point...but unless the gun is fired a lot, good springs will outlive you. Cleaning and a drop of oil in key areas is part of the program. Malfunctions with the pistol are most
often traced to the magazine or the ammo...assuming that everything else is in spec. Extractors can and do cause problems, but a good extractor
is usually something that can be tuned once and forgotten for years, other than periodic removal for cleaning. Most recent production 1911s and
variants don't come with good extractors...Fact of life these days...Ditto
for magazine springs.
The other problem of late is in the use of what I call "Near Steel" in the
production of small parts within the gun...including the critical trigger /fire control group parts. One thing that I do know...MIM is here to stay unless
the manufacturers cave in to our demands for better parts...which isn't likely, even if we accept higher retail prices. Profit is the driving force,
followed by sales volume. Pricey guns don't sell in high numbers...Another
fact of life. If it weren't true, the custom builders and high-end smiths
couldn't meet the demand.
So... we buy the gun and either send it off for an upgrade...do the upgrade ourselves...or just shoot it until someting breaks or fails, and we..either
send it off to be fixed or fix it ourselves. Except for a few critical areas,
DIY upgrades aren't that hard to do, and most tinkerers have good results
with most pistols...Others open a can of worms and wind up sending it away for repairs and adjustments.
Do a search on "Ken's Drop-In Trigger Job" for an example of what can go wrong. There are other stories in the same catregory that went perfectly.
It all depends on how close the gun and the parts kit is to spec...
Luck!
Tuner
spartacus2002
Member
I know everyone's mileage will vary, but I have a Springfield Armory Loaded 1911 and it has run like a champ out of the box with nearly every type of ammo I've tried (except truncated Hungarian ammo). Needed no tuning to be reliable and accurate.
Magazines are a different matter. A bad magazine can cause FTFs and FTEs and have you you thinking it's an extractor issue.
Magazines are a different matter. A bad magazine can cause FTFs and FTEs and have you you thinking it's an extractor issue.
99.5% of statistics are made up on the spot, but I still say that less than 2% of gun owners will ever come close to wearing a gun to the point that it needs ANY attention at all other than a little cleaning and a little oil.
My 'low mileage' 1911 has over 26K rounds through it, my 'high mileage' revolver has over 32K through it. The 1911 ejector is a little loose and could stand some attention and the rear sight will drift with some decent pressure, the revolver has almost .002" of endshake. Both are NEARING the point where they need to see the Dr. Unless you plan to put THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS more rounds through a gun it really won't matter what 1911 you pick as long as it is a reasonably made gun. Rock Island and up should be fine if you only shoot 1500 rounds in 10 years, sheesh man some of us shoot 1500 in one day and 4000+ in a month is no stranger to me.
I had 65K rounds through a mostly stock Springfield 'GI' 1911 and sold it, the day I sold it I could still shoot 3" at 25 yards with it and it was completely and totally reliable.
My 'low mileage' 1911 has over 26K rounds through it, my 'high mileage' revolver has over 32K through it. The 1911 ejector is a little loose and could stand some attention and the rear sight will drift with some decent pressure, the revolver has almost .002" of endshake. Both are NEARING the point where they need to see the Dr. Unless you plan to put THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS more rounds through a gun it really won't matter what 1911 you pick as long as it is a reasonably made gun. Rock Island and up should be fine if you only shoot 1500 rounds in 10 years, sheesh man some of us shoot 1500 in one day and 4000+ in a month is no stranger to me.
I had 65K rounds through a mostly stock Springfield 'GI' 1911 and sold it, the day I sold it I could still shoot 3" at 25 yards with it and it was completely and totally reliable.
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