1911 barrel link pin...?
- Thread starter mpthole
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AZ Jeff
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It's not a big deal on a issue grade (not match grade) gun. You can prevent this from happening by staking the barrel lug right next to the hole for the link pin very slightly on both sides with a prick punch. It will create an interference fit that will keep the pin retained.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Hold on, pardner...
Howdy fellas...Not tryin' to hijack the thread, but that might become a
probelm down the road a short piece.
Slop between the link and the pin isn't a problem. The link is hard enough
to tolerate it. The barrel steel isn't. As the pin wobbles back and forth, it
egg-shapes the hole, and if the barrel is riding the link, it happens pretty
fast. Staking around the hole will usually work in a pinch IF...the hole
isn't more than .001 larger than the pin. If it is, the pin will loosen up again
soon.
When the hole gets wallowed out past a certain point, the barrel linkdown timing can be delayed to the point of allowing hard contact between the
locking lugs and the corresponding area in the slide because the barrel can't get out of the way in time for the slide to pass over the top. The
locking lugs get radiused on the top front, and damage is also likely to the slide.
Measure the pin with a micrometer...Don't trust a dial caliper for this...
You need to get a measurement more accurate than a caliper can provide.
Brownells has link pins in .001 increments from .154 to .156 diameter.
I'd order one of each, just in case. They're cheap...about 4 bucks a copy.
Use the next larger size first. It should be a good interference fit...one that
requires a little force to seat. If the .155 pin isn't large enough, go to the .156 size. You may have to slightly bevel the leading end to get it started, and it may take a good bit of force to get it through the lug,
but this is preferable to possibly ruining the lug, or the barrel and slide
if the timing goes haywire.
A stitch in time and all that...
Tuner
Howdy fellas...Not tryin' to hijack the thread, but that might become a
probelm down the road a short piece.
Slop between the link and the pin isn't a problem. The link is hard enough
to tolerate it. The barrel steel isn't. As the pin wobbles back and forth, it
egg-shapes the hole, and if the barrel is riding the link, it happens pretty
fast. Staking around the hole will usually work in a pinch IF...the hole
isn't more than .001 larger than the pin. If it is, the pin will loosen up again
soon.
When the hole gets wallowed out past a certain point, the barrel linkdown timing can be delayed to the point of allowing hard contact between the
locking lugs and the corresponding area in the slide because the barrel can't get out of the way in time for the slide to pass over the top. The
locking lugs get radiused on the top front, and damage is also likely to the slide.
Measure the pin with a micrometer...Don't trust a dial caliper for this...
You need to get a measurement more accurate than a caliper can provide.
Brownells has link pins in .001 increments from .154 to .156 diameter.
I'd order one of each, just in case. They're cheap...about 4 bucks a copy.
Use the next larger size first. It should be a good interference fit...one that
requires a little force to seat. If the .155 pin isn't large enough, go to the .156 size. You may have to slightly bevel the leading end to get it started, and it may take a good bit of force to get it through the lug,
but this is preferable to possibly ruining the lug, or the barrel and slide
if the timing goes haywire.
A stitch in time and all that...
Tuner
AZ Jeff
Member
Good point, Tuner. Thanks for the better, more detailed explanation that I failed to give.
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