1911 Captive vs Non-captive guide rods

[Sactown]

Can anyone explain to me what are the advantages/disadvantages of a captive versus non-captive guide rod? (is this even the correct term?) I disassembled my STI Trojan and it uses the captive guide rod. I was looking at it and compared it to my Kimber Polymer which is a non captive guide rod. The only difference I could see was that with the Kimber I needed to use a bushing wrench to disassemble the gun. Is the purpose of the captive guide rod so the bushing doesn't get worn when the pistol is being disassembled? (hence tighter fit to the gun) Can I purchase a captive guide rod and replace the non-captive guide rod on my Kimber? Would that be better than using a bushing wrench?

TIA

 

[bountyhunter]

The captive rod/bushing/spring allows the whole set to be taken out and re-installed with the spring and bushing kept on the rod. STI doesn't give the instructions, but you can make a toolout of a paper clip and pull the slide back, reach in from the front and put it in the hole, then take down/ reassemble the gun with the spring held on the rod. It is 10000% easier than fighting it back together when the spring is allowed to release. And as you said, you will never need a bushing wrench again or wear the famous "forehead imprint" that 1911 owners end up with.

I've posted detailed instructions on how to do it, the dimensions to cut the paper clip to, even where to drill a hole if your guide rod doesn't have on. It's on the 1911 forum:

http://www.1911forum.com/forums/

 

[bountyhunter]

To anyone interested in 1911 takedown without a wrench (and without hassles):

"Takedown Hole

I can only speak to the full-sized guns with a single-piece guide rod (full length) as to where the hole goes. My Para and STI use the standard one-piece full length rod. The Para did not come with a hole in the rod, so I drilled one:

I used a 1/16" drill (.062") and drilled about 1.65" back from the muzzle end of the rod vertically (as viewed with the rod in the gun). To check the best place to drill your rod, just move the slide all the way back and mark the underside of the rod with a black pin about 0.1" forward of where the bushing is. The point is to be able to take some paper clip wire (straightened out) and bend a rt angle with about 0.2" of wire up from the long side. Cut the longer side of this "tool" to match the rod end when it is inserted in the hole. To use it you move the slide all the way back and grab it with the right hand. With the left hand, insert the "tool" from the front underside of the rod and insert it up into the hole. Slowly ease the slide forward and the tool will capture the spring/bushing/rod as a captive assembly. Take the slide stop pin out, remove the slide and turn the slide over. Flip the link to the rear and pull the rod assy out to the rear. It goes back in reverse order.

DETAILS ON DIS-ASSEMBLY:

"I find it much easier to use the slide on the frame to compress the spring. I just push the slide back to lock and then wrap my right hand around the gun with two fingers in the ejector port to control the slide. The I release the slide lock and ease the slide forward while I reach in from the front and put the clip tool in. Then I take the slide off and remove the spring/rod assembly. That way is a lot easier on the hands. You need to size the clip tool so it's long enough to insert from the front."

 

[Sactown]

I had figured out the disassembly. You have to remember to place the paper clip on the underside of the guide or otherwise the bushing won't allow the guide rod to be removed. Other than the ease of disassembly are there any other benefits of the captive guide rod?

Bountyhunter,

I've seen your posting on the 1911 forum. Do you know if you could buy the guide rod with the hole drilled? Perhaps a tungsten guide rod with the hole?

TIA.

 

[bountyhunter]

"I had figured out the disassembly. You have to remember to place the paper clip on the underside of the guide or otherwise the bushing won't allow the guide rod to be removed. Other than the ease of disassembly are there any other benefits of the captive guide rod?"

The easy disassembly is pretty much the whole benefit as far as I know. For me, it's worth it's weight in gold.


"Do you know if you could buy the guide rod with the hole drilled? Perhaps a tungsten guide rod with the hole?"

You can get pre-drilled rods at the address below. The steel one is about $16 and drilled all the way through. The tungsten one is about $60 and drilled half-way in (not sure why on that). My personal belief is tungsten is a rip-off that doesn't do anything, but that's just me.

http://www.rushusa.com/html/products/sti/guide-rods.html