1911 Slide stop problem

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uneasy_rider

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I have a Kimber 10mm Eclipse. The factory slide stop was unusable, and caused the slide to lock back after every couple of shots.

I replaced this with a Wilson 38 super slide stop. This works better, though I am still having the slide lock back on me about one out of every 15 to 20 rounds.

When I look at the slide stop I can see a little bit of copper from the cartridges rubbed off on it, so I am thinking maybe the cartridges are bumping the stop up, causing it to lock before the magazine is empty.

Will filing off a little of the contact area on the slide stop fix this problem?
 
Might try the Gunsmithing and Repairs Section.

Don't know, I can't see your pistol from here.

Given that a Wilson .38 Auto slide stop is readily available I'd say try filing and see. Likely enough there are slide stops out there that will work better than the two used so far - but I don't know which ones. Often the .38 Auto slide stop will stick in more than slide stops for a larger cartridge. It's a given that if nothing is done the slide will continue to lock back as it currently does.. Many people will look at things - even take the slide off - and change either the slide stop or the bullet.
 
Will filing off a little of the contact area on the slide stop fix this problem?
Probably so. Take off a little at a time, and concentrate on making the angles into curves. Leave the underside that contacts the mag follower alone. Touch up with cold blue, and try it out. If the contact marks reappear, apply a little more file work and repeat as necessary.

Remember it is easier to take metal off than it is to put it back.
 
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What would be best to use, a small hand file or a Dremel?

I am kind of afraid of using a Dremel, it can take off a lot of metal in a hurry
 
I used an "arkansas" stone on the slide stop of my ultra II. Just take care to maintain the original angles on the faces addressed.
MM
 
I have a Dan Wesson in 10mm, it was having early lockback issues as well. I ended up going from the stock 22lb recoil spring to a 26lb spring to solve the issue. I'd try a new spring before removing any material. It's an easy/cheap thing to try without actually altering the gun.
 
I ended up going from the stock 22lb recoil spring to a 26lb spring to solve the issue.

Wow. Are you not getting some pretty good peening on the barrel lugs? I'd be afraid to go that heavy with the spring.
 
I have a Dan Wesson in 10mm, it was having early lockback issues as well. I ended up going from the stock 22lb recoil spring to a 26lb spring to solve the issue. I'd try a new spring before removing any material. It's an easy/cheap thing to try without actually altering the gun.

I think that is a bad way to fix this problem. The problem is too much metal on the slide stop, and it seems to me the correct fix would be to remove some of it.
 
I had this same problem with my Kimber Custom II... I filed off some from the stock slide stop and it only reduced the frequency of the problem, but never got rid of it. I kept at it and finally I had taken so much off that the slide would not stay back after the last round. I tried switching bullets a couple of times and it helped, but it still happens occasionally. I finally went and replaced thte slide stop with a Wilson slide stop and had to tune that one as well. It has gotten a lot better in terms of the frequency of slide lock backs, but for some reason I can't get it to completely stop. It seems to happen more with my Chip McCormick mags than with my Wilson 47D mags. I may have to contact Kimber about it if I can't find a solution :banghead:. Good luck with yours.
 
Call EGW. As a guess I suspect one of their oversized slide stops will fix the problem.

If it isn't that simple they'll probably make you a suitable slide catch for about the cost of an off-the-shelf replacement.
 
My Springfield Armory .45 was cured by removing the heavy duty shock buffer I had installed. Slow, unsprung, cycling reveals that each bullet rising to the top of the magazine moves the slide stop up, then the rearward travel of the slide and the ramp portion of the stop notch moves it back down to allow the slide to go forward, chambering the round. The buffer prevented slide travel far enough rearward to reset the stop. Not the intended process, but it works with (so far) 100% reliability, so I took 'Tuner's advice about fixing things 'til they're broken. :)
 
I ended up going from the stock 22lb recoil spring to a 26lb spring to solve the issue.
You didn't solve the issue, you covered it up with a band aid and will most likely be causing another issue in the near future.
 
In regards to my using a 26lb recoil spring. I am doing what was recommended by Dan Wesson. I'm shooting a 10mm and using fairly hot reloads. Factory Dan Wesson mags. I tried a 24lb spring first without success. The slide was moving so fast that the top of the slide impacts the ejecting brass causing significant damage to the empty shell.

I'm not claiming to be right, in fact if I did "band-aid" the issue I'd like to make it right. If anyone has another way to slow the slide I'd be interested in hearing how.

Going to a heavier spring was an attempt to slow the slide, the early lockback issue went away at the same time.

I know I could back off my loads a bit to fix this issue, but I don't see much point in having a powerful gun if you have to choke it off...
 
Have you talked to Kimber? I understand they have re-vamped the slide stop and will send you one that has been modified for free or a phone call...
 
I understand they have re-vamped the slide stop and will send you one that has been modified for free or a phone call...

You are absolutely correct. A quick call to the Kimber shop will have you a new slide stop in the mail within a day or so.
 
Have you talked to Kimber? I understand they have re-vamped the slide stop and will send you one that has been modified for free or a phone call...

Good to know! I'll give them a call tomorow. Thanks for the info.
 
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