1911 trigger problem...

[AdvantagePoint]

First off I would like to say, HI! I'm new around these parts. I'm in love with 1911's and have owned them for 15 years. I never really taken the time till just recently to actually totally take them down. I do gotta say it's a little scary at first but after completely doing it the first time it's not that bad.. So anyway ...to the point here...

I had a Stainless-Steel Springfield 1911 for a while. I Kept on having serious problems with it. I'm not beating up on Springfield or anything because they do make some wonderful firearms. But this one just happened to sneak past quality control( if ya know what I mean..lol) Anyway..So I went to the local Firearms dealer and was lookin for a trade. After inspecting over 30 1911's. I found myself staring down the Taurus PT1911...I do have to say they make a very nice 1911. Polished throat and ramp. Polished disconnect and sear. Even the bottom of the firing pin stop is polished on top of that..barrel slide and frame are all fitted...But anyway! I guess the only thing they didn't look at was "just" the trigger.... So when I completely took this baby down. I noticed the trigger just didn't "fall" out of the frame after taking the magazine release out. It's like the trigger is rubbing against the inside channel...Don't get me wrong.. The pistol works perfectly. 2 inch groups at 25 yards..But I would like the trigger just to be a little smoother..It's almost like the trigger is just barely rubbing the inside of the trigger harness area(I would like to call it). So I'm guess polishing would without a doubt improve this..If so what should I use to polish? and..What surfaces should I be polishing?? ..I would greatly appreciate it if someone would help...Oh and just for some gun porn..I added this picture..In all her glory...

 

[Canuck-IL]

I use 600 grit paper wet w a little oil on the arms of the trigger. Take care not to bow them. For the channels, glue some 400 to the square end of a chopstick and it'll fit nicely...or buy the correct file from Brownell's.
/Bryan

 

[AdvantagePoint]

Sand paper?? Then I guess just buff to a polish I assume??...Thanks for the input by the way..


Any other input anyone??

 

[vetts1911]

I use a course and fine combo stone. The fine side will take the metal down nice and slow on the trigger bow and put a very nice polish on it at the same time. I have done 4 triggers this way. I like the Caspian flat Trik trigger and they have to be fitted. The last three I put in that way and it worked the best.

 

[AdvantagePoint]

Ya I would rather use stone then go to a buffer useing some compound maybe. That's pretty much the way I throated and polished the ramp on my Springfield last time. Just wanted to see what other DYI gunsmiths are doing these days. Any other input would be great as well. Maybe does anyone recommend a trigger over another. Thanks again for the replys

 

[vetts1911]

I like the Caspian Trik trigger and they are very reasonable.

 

[AdvantagePoint]

Ya I just would like to have another trigger on hand...I was thinking about not even touching the stock trigger. Just buy a better one and fit it in.

 

[housedad]

First, check to see that the grooves in the frame that the trigger stirrup rides in are free of burrs and machining marks.
Second, inspect the trigger stirrup for rubbing marks, flatness of the sides and the back, and whether or not it has a twist. Check to make sure the trigger is perpendicular to the stirrup.
Third, inspect the opening where the trigger comes through into the triggerguard. look for burrs, or rub marks. look for rub marks on the trigger itself.
Now measure with a caliper the width or the stirrup and the distance between the grooves in the frame. There should be at least a 4 to 6 thousandths difference. If the stirrup is too wide after making sure it is square and flat sides, replace the trigger.

If all that does not fix the problem, then go ahead and stone away.


There is a tool from Brownells, really just a die, that is used to iron the trigger stirrup back into perfect shape. Pricey, but it works well. No justification for it unless you do a lot of triggers.

Bion

 

[AdvantagePoint]

Ya I figured it would be more complicated then just stoning or sanding with sand paper... LOL.....I really appreciate your response.Makes more sense. I will look into the die. But I'll be careful not to bend or twist anything...thankyou.....if anyone else has any input..keep it rollin...I'm not doing this untill I here from more highroaders here... thankyou again Bion..

 

[housedad]

Here it is: Only consider it if you think your trigger stirrup is screwed up. It might be cheaper in the long run to just buy a new trigger. Brownells has an excellent selection.

I would find that the trigger and stirrup was screwed up in one way or another by mainstream manufacturers. Not with the springfields, kimbers, and other smaller companies. The Auto Ordinance ones seemed like every 10th gun they made (10 years ago) had stirrups that were too wide.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=788&title=1911%20AUTO%20TRIGGER%20STIRRUP%20DIE

 

[AdvantagePoint]

Excellent..Thankyou Bion...

 

[1814rob]

Break the sharp edges and polish the bow with flitz and denim and you will be very happy with the fit if the bow is not twisted, which it should'nt be if it works.

 

[Canuck-IL]

I figured it would be more complicated then just stoning or sanding with sand paper

but it isn't ... assuming an in-spec trigger. If you've got a twisted piece of tinfoil, you can get the shaping block and waste some time and $$ or just get a decent trigger.

Otherwise, paper and oil, Flitz and denim and a little care are more than adequate.
/B

 

[AdvantagePoint]

You're right canuck...I actually did a little research and found a bunch of DIY's and did the same thing..400+600 grit sandpaper and compound..I think I'm going to give that a try..But I'm going to take some measurements before hand..just to check some stuff out...but I apolagize for not taking your idea seriously.

 

[vetts1911]

Just a quick note. You damage the frame it is all over. A trigger is much cheaper to trouble with. Take care with removing metal from the frame and good luck.

 

[AdvantagePoint]

maybe I'll have to post a picture of my work when finished..won't get to it for a couple of days..so stand by..

 

[1911Tuner]

Are you sure that it's the bow that's dragging and not the fingerpiece?

Drop it in backward and see if it falls in and out. If it does...it's not the bow.

Use a sharpie marker to color the fingerpiece on the top and bottom. Run it in and out a few times and look to see if that's where it's dragging.

If that isn't it...slip it back in and look through the channel from the rear to see if light is being blocked on one side. If so...the fingerpiece is crooked.

 

[AdvantagePoint]

I was wondering when you were going to step in tuner...I admire your professionalship..