1911: why retract so much to take down?

[Caliper_Mi]

So, I recently acquired a M57 Yugo Tokarev pistol. For those unfamiliar with the design, it borrows heavily from Brownings 1911. Single stack, single action, sliding trigger, link-pin barrel, barrel bushing, etc.

What gets me though is that the take down is so much simpler... Simply unclip a retainer on the right side of the pistol, move the slide back a hair to remove spring tension from the take down pin and push the slide stop lever/take down pin out. From there the slide comes off the front easy as pie. I seriously can do this in just seconds. (visual aid. not my video though: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWWrpZhwhc8 )

Comparing this to my 1911, the Tokarev disassembly beats the heck out of fighting with the barrel bushing at the front end, or the shortcut of pulling the take down pin first while holding the slide halfway back.

All this got me thinking though; why is the take down notch so far forward in a 1911? Is there any reason the take down notch couldn't be positioned further rearwards? Say, just 1/8" forward of where the slide stop is with the slide in battery? Without a retaining clip like the Tokarev, I wouldn't want the take down notch exposed in battery for fear of it getting pushed out accidentally, but it seems like there is a lot of room to improve and make take down easier than the original design.

Any thoughts?

 

[JDGray]

100yrs ago, people were stronger, and it was a piece of cake for them

 

[2wheels]

Eh, taking my 1911s apart doesn't bother me. Never thought much about "improving" them.

 

[1911Tuner]

Assduming no FLGR or a barrel bushing to tight that it requires a wrench to move it...a 1911 can be field stripped in 10-12 seconds. Don't really see how much easier it could be.

 

[gathert]

If you have an original 1911 like I do, take down is a breeze. It doesnt have a 1000 lb recoil spring like the ones today do that require a wrench just to get it off and not kill your hands. Its as simple as push in the barrel button with a finger, and off the bushing comes.

 

[gunnysmith]

Blasphemy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Caliper_Mi]

Mine is a Para GI Expert. No FLGR. It is basically a GI spec with three dot sights and a rounded hammer. Don't know the rating on the recoil spring though.

The biggest struggle is always getting the barrel button back in without the slide moving back and having a third hand to put in the bushing and turn it.

 

[EddieNFL]

What's a barrel button? Recoil spring plug, maybe?

Here's what I do: Install the barrel, bushing, recoil spring and guide. Mate the slide to the frame and install the slide stop. Engage the safety, slide the recoil spring plug into position and hold with my thumb. Turn the bushing into position with my second hand.

Take s a lot less time than typing all this...and only two hands.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

Just think, on the SIG-Sauer P-series pistols, you have to retract the slide all the way back until it actually locks! The horror!

 

[Zach S]

I don't see the issue, 1911s are a breeze to field strip.

The biggest struggle is always getting the barrel button back in without the slide moving back and having a third hand to put in the bushing and turn it.

Its called a "recoil spring plug." Sounds to me like you're trying to put it back in with the safety off.

It doesnt have a 1000 lb recoil spring like the ones today do that require a wrench just to get it off and not kill your hands.

Its not the recoil spring that's the problem, its the spring plug for the FLGR, and I replace the FLGR and matching plug with the correct parts.

 

[Shadow 7D]

I actually like the M57 tokarev's FLGR, seem someone like the op designed it, it's hinged and pops right off, out of the bottom of the slide. But putting it back together can be a handful.

And I believe that the Tokarev was more influenced by the 1908, than the 1911

 

[batex]

This is what concerns you? Really? Wow.

 

[DaveShooter]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Proven for over 100-yrs. Let it be!!!!!

 

[Caliper_Mi]

Just think, on the SIG-Sauer P-series pistols, you have to retract the slide all the way back until it actually locks! The horror!

If the slide stop and takedown pin are not the same part, I like that design too. My PF9 works that way and it is just fine. Lock slide, pull pin, unlock and remove slide...

Sorry about the vocabulary malfunction...

Batex: This is not all that concerns me, but something that came to mind. I've got the day off and wanted to know if there is some reason I shouldn't consider adding a second take down notch.

 

[1911Tuner]

Quote:

> I've got the day off and wanted to know if there is some reason I shouldn't consider adding a second take down notch. <

Ya won't know 'til ya try, but if it turns out to have an adverse effect on the gun's function...like the slidestop walking out while the slide is in motion...you've made a permanent alteration that can't be easily undone.

Why fix it if it ain't broke?

Looking at the muzzle end...Depress spring plug. Turn bushing clockwise to release the plug and remove spring tension. Pull slide to takedown position. Remove slidestop. Remove slide.

 

[bbuddtec]

"If it tastes so good, then youuu eeeat it, Klink!"
-General Burkhalter-

 

[4thPointOfContact]

A few years ago, I had a Very well fitted barrel bushing on a 1911. In the years that I owned it, I don't think I Ever separated the bushing from the barrel. The only way I took apart my 1911 was with the slide stop lever.