1942 German Mauser (98) from WWII capture, Numbers Matching

[GunnyUSMC]

Blue
Don’t fill in the area around the ends of the recoil lug. It’s a part that has a flat disc that screws on to hold it in place.
Here’s what it should look like on both sides.


Here’s a pic of what the front of your stock should look like.


What you are missing is the front fore arm of the stock that is forward of the rear barrel band. The bayonet lug, witch is still attached in the pic. The front barrel band, the band retaining spring and the cleaning rod.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Here’s some pics of a duffel cut repair I didn’t last year on a Carcano stock. The fore end was original, but I had to replace the wood that was lost from the saw cut.
These types of repairs run $100 to $200 depending on the stock and model of gun.

 

[Blue68f100]

Thanks for posting the photos of what I'm missing and the pillar block. It looks like my did filled those in with Linseed oil too. Something else to cleanup on my end.

I followed your thread when you did that repair, was very informative. If I decide to scrounge the parts up at least I know what I'm against now.

 

[Blue68f100]

Got the reinforcing fiberglass epoxied in this afternoon. 2-3 layers of 6oz matting using West System 105/206 epoxy. This epoxy drys clear if no air bubbles are trapped. I've used a lot of this epoxy rebuilding my boat, 11 1/2 gallons. This is left over from that project. The tape is covering up the SN.

 

[Blue68f100]

I cleaned it up this morning, had some high spots as expected.



What was used to seal up the wood next to the barrel? Was this Lacquer, urethane, linseed oil or other? I'm thinking about just mixing up some more epoxy, then go back and kill the gloss. Epoxy will take most any chemical you want to throw at it, and is good to ~400F.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

I cleaned it up this morning, had some high spots as expected.

View attachment 1019973

What was used to seal up the wood next to the barrel? Was this Lacquer, urethane, linseed oil or other? I'm thinking about just mixing up some more epoxy, then go back and kill the gloss. Epoxy will take most any chemical you want to throw at it, and is good to ~400F.

Most laminated k98 stocks left the factory with no finish. I have found photos of German soldiers putting melted candle wax on the stocks, most likely beeswax. In the book The Forgotten Soldier (written by a German soldier) talked about using axel grease to coat their rifles on the Russian Front to protect them from the snow.
After a repair, I just rub in a thin coat of BLO on the inside of the handguard.
For the outside of the stock, bone it first. If you feel any small fibers sticking up, do a light Oil Scrub finish. This is done by dipping some 0000 steel wool in BLO (you want it wet) and do a light scrub on the stock. Then let it sit for 30 minutes and wipe it dry. Allow the stock to sit for 24 hours then hand rub in a thin coat of BLO. You want to rub until your hand gets very warm. This is called a polish coat. Let sit for 30 minutes and wipe it dry. Now let the stock sit for 48 hours. Next use a dry paper towel to rub a few spots on the stock. If oil comes off the stock, let it dry for another 24 hours, ant test with the paper towel again. When you rub the stock and no oil comes off, apply a coat of Tom’s 1/3 mix Military stock wax. If you don’t have any, just use some paste wax. Let it sit for 30 minutes and buff with a dry cloth.
The reason you want the stock to be dry before applying any type of wax is, the wax will turn milky if the oil has not cured.

 

[Blue68f100]

Your boning process is similar to whats done in leather craft. I've done it for years to smooth/slick out edges. In leather they use a piece of plastic and water. Normally nylon is used, but it does not really matter what is used as long as it's smooth since leather is soft. Now days they have a Gum solution to aide in the process instead of using water.

Thanks for the info on how to finish it out. I will be assembling it in the next couple of days. A good thing to do inside my shop when where reaching near 100F with heat index near 107F. I run a dehumidifier inside my shop to keep my tools from rusting. And have a small exhaust fan for when it's needed. I mainly use it to bring in fresh air by opening the outside air vent on with my window unit (AC/heat).

 

[Blue68f100]

Finished it up and it's back together. Finished came out nice. It's a lot nicer than it was.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Finished it up and it's back together. Finished came out nice. It's a lot nicer than it was.
View attachment 1021982 View attachment 1021983

Keep a lookout for a broken, red glue, k98 stock. You just need the front end. When you get it, I could walk you through the repair or maybe even do the repair for you.

 

[Blue68f100]

Will keep that in mind. Living out in the country does not give much chance to running into one. And the pandemic has most every thing a miss.