2 Chambers on My Vaquero Hard To Extract

[Chicken-Farmer]

My Ruger Montado .357 has 2 chambers that are difficult to extract from. I shoot very mild 38/357 reloads from the revolver. Factory ammo extraction is the same. I have thoroughly cleaned all the chambers, no "crud" rings are present at all. The cases do extract, but often have to be pulled out by hand by twisting the case unlike the other 4 chambers that almost fall into my hand when i start to extract.
Is there a "handyman" method of polishing the chambers that won't damage the revolver? I have heard about the toothpaste method of polishing internals and it might work for this application. Anyone had the same problems and corrected it themselves?

Thanks,

Chicken-Farmer

 

[Deus Machina]

Check for burrs around the rim of the chambers.

Especially is the rounds drop in easier than they extract, a burr or sharp lip is likely to be the most common thing.

If it's there, run the edge of a sharp knife around the rim to smooth it out.

If not, try some toothpaste on a towel wrapped around a dowel, and run that in and out, twist it around.

 

[Prepster]

That sounds unacceptable to me. I'd send it to Ruger and tell them to make it right. They have excellent customer service and I'm sure they'd take care of you.

 

[kanook]

does it happen when you shoot factory loaded or hot loads?

 

[foghornl]

I had a similar issue on my Vaquero...

I got one of the "wool mop" type things to put on the end of cleaning rod, a bunch of FLitz polish, and my battery-power drill. Took about 5 minutes per chamber...now those empties just about drop out.

 

[BCRider]

Before I would buff the chamgers I would want to check VERY carefully for a simple burr along the rear of the chamber. One way to do this is put an empty part way in and wiggle it around. Try to visualize where the pivot point is by looking at the motion to see if you can tell if it's hinging in the wrong spot. Another option is to make up a wire "dental probe" whisker from a paper clip and feel for it catching on any sort of burr on the lip of the opening on those two. This goes for special care on the extractor/star part to make sure the cutaways to allow the rounds to pass into the chambers are dead on even with the chamber. It may be that there's a small extra bit of metal on those on the sticky chambers that just needs a touch of stoning with a round slip stone or fine wetordry sandpaper wrapped around an empty casing.

Either way I would advise against generic fixes. Find the issue and address that one point. If it turns out that it's just the chamber bore is slightly tighter then by all means the mop and Flitz would be a good step. But if it's one small high point then just address that one area.

 

[rcmodel]

Just take a cotton Q-Tip and run it around the chamber mouths.

If there are burs, they will pick up cotton fibers and be real easy to spot.

Another method I would try is to "color" some ammo with a black Magic-Marker.
Then shoot them.

Wherever the marker is scuffed off and shiny brass showing is what is causing the problem.

rc

 

[Chicken-Farmer]

Thanks for the replies

Thanks for all the replies. Now at least i have somewhere to start. I don't think this is an issue that warrants sending the revolver back to Ruger. I just believe that, as some stated, there is a burr or lip causing the two chambers to hang up.
To answer the question, yes the problem happens with factory ammo as well. I haven't shot any "hot" ammo through the revolver. My reloads are 3.5 grains of Bullseye under a 158 gr lead Missouri bullet. I use the same load for 38 and 357 cases.

Chicken-Farmer

 

[raveneap]

On the other hand, I had a SW 586 that I picked up used - appeared to be in 99% condition. I found that a couple charging holes didn't like to drop cartridges. After several attempt to resolve the problem, finally called SW and sent it in for repairs. They advised that two charging holes were "blown"; probably from excessive hand loads. Had to replace the cylinder. Not cheap but it's an excellent gun and I'd gotten a good deal on it. (From my lgs; who's honest as the day is long. When I told them what had happened, they gave me credit on my next purchase to make up for it.) Got it back from SW, smooth as silk, and they returned the original cylinder. That's probably not the problem in your case but I'd be careful what I did to it in case you end up having to send it back for repairs.