22-250 blown primers!

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Is this rifle fairly new to you?,.Have you had good luck loading for it in the past?,and have you noticed things like flattened primers,and loose pockets leading up to this?,or did it just happen over night .I wonder if you may have a copper fouled barrel,but I figure accuracy going sour would be the first warning sign of this happening..
 
No way of gauging primer pressure seating, just "normal" feel and fully seated. I don't have access to crono. primers are Western I think because my 9mm I use cci. I don't have original box, I store in different container.
It takes a noticeable difference in seating pressure to have it be the cause. Is it the same batch of powder and primer as first load? I think all the other replies have it covered. If everything checks out, back down and rework load.
 
Is this rifle fairly new to you?,.Have you had good luck loading for it in the past?,and have you noticed things like flattened primers,and loose pockets leading up to this?,or did it just happen over night .I wonder if you may have a copper fouled barrel,but I figure accuracy going sour would be the first warning sign of this happening..
No i have had this gun for 35 yrs. Been loading this same gun the whole time. I was having trouble before but it was all old cases. New cases still blowing out the primers. Cleaned bore out not long ago.
 
Powder lots very as much as 5%. So it's just possible that you have a hotter lot than before causing all the problems. Your other lot may have been on the low side which could cause a 10% change. Drop your charge back and re-work the load and be done. But if the old lot was causing problems too, need to look in the cause. New brass can cause it, less volume, thicker necks.......
 
Powder lots very as much as 5%. So it's just possible that you have a hotter lot than before causing all the problems. Your other lot may have been on the low side which could cause a 10% change. Drop your charge back and re-work the load and be done. But if the old lot was causing problems too, need to look in the cause. New brass can cause it, less volume, thicker necks.......
I just did the water test, filled both an old and a new case and the new one is bigger. If I did it right, I weighed them with water and new is.4760 oz.,old is .4630 oz. I never heard or tried this but there it is.
 
The primers are gone before you open the bolt or fall out after?

Compare a sized case with a fired case.
Shoulder to head length.

I would drop down to lowest published starting load, maybe lower and see if still happening.
 
The primers are gone before you open the bolt or fall out after?

Compare a sized case with a fired case.
Shoulder to head length.

I would drop down to lowest published starting load, maybe lower and see if still happening.
Primers are gone when I open the bolt. I went below lowest data load but read that going below is not good either. I think I read that on this forum from years back. So I'm not doing that. As it is I went to 32.0 which is .5 below Speer's load for 4064 and had the same problem. I did take it to a local GS who I had never been to since I don't know anybody here, and he didn't see anything wrong with the gun,chamber, bolt. I am going to buy some factory stuff and see what happens.
 
Carbon?

Never tried or used, but maybe worth a try. http://www.boretech.com/products/c4-carbon-remover

Had carbon build up in my old 40x, took a lot of scrubbing to remover with #9 and a brush. But there was NO increase in pressure that i could see on fired brass.

The carbon ring can be felt when running a tight patch into the bore. It seemed to be right at or a little past the throat/leade area.
 
Do you have a .22-250 'go' and 'no go' gauge?

Could you have a headspace issue? Primers shouldn't have room to completely back out.

I'm betting you can close the bolt on a no-go gauge.

I strongly suggest you check headspace before you fire that rifle again.
 
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If you've been loading for this rifle for a long time with no problems,and now all kinds of crazy stuff is happening,there's got to be something that has changed.I would get the headspace checked to be safe,but that wouldn't likely have changed.I have a custom 25-06 that did something very similar to what you're experiencing.I bought 100 rounds of new Remington brass because I had been using old 30-06 brass that was necked down and the rifle wasn't as accurate as I thought it should be.I was getting pressure signs at a mild powder weight.Primers were backing out and flat,hard extraction and on the second loading of the new brass,I got a head separation.I went right away and ordered a field and a go gauge,and the bolt would close on the field.I had recently bought a lathe and got the hang of using it enough to take enough off the action face to true it up and was able to take enough off the barrel shoulder to make it so the bolt would barely close on the go gauge.I have been nothing but amazed with this rifle,it has became a real shooter.Accuracy is great,going from 1.5 inches at 100 to .5's and .6's regularly.And it had no pressure signs at all when I bumped the throttle open,right up to max loads with no problems at all.You may have had this problem all along,and it is just now starting to really show up with the brass change.
 
No i have had this gun for 35 yrs. Been loading this same gun the whole time. I was having trouble before but it was all old cases. New cases still blowing out the primers. Cleaned bore out not long ago.
I assume by old brass that you mean they had been fired several times.Is it hard to run them thru the sizing die after firing? Do they require a lot more than normal trimming? If your brass has always failed prematurly then I would say you have always had an underlying issue with your rifle,and maybe this new batch of brass is a hair thinner,or softer,and fails the first time..I overheated some brass during my first attempt at annealing,and the primer pockets stretched out,and the primers fell out when I opened the action..I doubt you would anneal new brass though..Do you know who built your Mauser?,and what manufacturer the barrel is from?..I know if you have too much headspace,or oversize chamber it s hard on the brass,but I don't know how it would cause the primers to blow out..Unless you have a real high dollar barrel,and if I was in your shoes I would probably have it rebarreled,before I put of with too much grief from it..
 
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I assume by old brass that you mean they had been fired several times.Is it hard to run them thru the sizing die after firing? Do they require a lot more than normal trimming? If your brass has always failed prematurly then I would say you have always had an underlying issue with your rifle,and maybe this new batch of brass is a hair thinner,or softer,and fails the first time..I overheated some brass during my first attempt at annealing,and the primer pockets stretched out,and the primers fell out when I opened the action..I doubt you would anneal new brass though..Do you know who built your Mauser?,and what manufacturer the barrel is from?..I know if you have too much headspace,or oversize chamber it s hard on the brass,but I don't know how it would cause the primers to blow out..Unless you have a real high dollar barrel,and if I was in your shoes I would probably have it rebarreled,before I put of with too much grief from it..
No the cases started failing recently. Some of the cases I have had for years. I did buy a box to get new cases but that was within the last 4 yrs.I have been shooting more since I retired and I did anneal the older stuff but the old brass was failing in the last year. I have had cases fail over the years with cracked necks,cracking just up from the rim. This was not that often so to me they were just worn out from being reloaded too many times. But now with the primers being blown out with never fired cases is just crazy. I went to a gunsmith here in Springfield and he took a case and put tape the the primer end of the case and said it didn't show any problems with head space. He said it was good that way. I would love to get it back to the guy in NY that built it but I'm 1200 mi away. We'll see, I have some more places here I may take it to . I may try factory ammo first.
 
I know you verify the accuracy of your scales,but it sure does sound like the loading is way too hot..If this issue has only happened with a newly opened jug of powder ,and new box of bullets then maybe the problem is with them..You said you recently cleaned the bore.I wonder if you may have loosened some sort of fouling that may have resolidified in the bore..I don't know if it's even possible for this to happen,but I would clean it out again,it couldnt hurt..Yea definitly try factory ammo..And if you do take it to a Gun Smith I would ask him about rebarreling before you spend any money on your current issue..You say you shoot way more than you used to,and concidering the 22-250 is kinda hard on barrels anyways it may be better just to let him rebarrel it with either a new 22-250 barrel,or it would be a good opertunity to go with a new caliber.
 
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I went to a gunsmith here in Springfield and he took a case and put tape the the primer end of the case and said it didn't show any problems with head space. He said it was good that way.

Tape? Seriously? That was this gunsmiths set of go and no-go gauges? (And he assumed the case was of the proper dimensions? Note that even a factory cartridge will likely be sized a little smaller than spec, to ensure it chambers even in a rifle with minimal headspace. Adding a piece of tape over that might get you to a 'go gauge' length. You really need a "no-go" or "field" gauge to better assess the problems you're seeing...for your own safety. Primers may move in the pocket, after the firing pin moves the case forward, and before the brass expands....but not enough for a primer to back out. That and case separation are classic signs of excessive headspace.)

A no-go gauge is about $25. If you find you have excessive headspace, it is likely all you need to do is set the barrel back a thread or so, and the problems will go away...and your rifle will likely be a better shooter.

I was dealing with the old brass and wanting to keep pressures low. I kept having cases splitting necks or cracks around the bottom . So knowing it was older brass I broke down and bought new brass,Winchester. I started off with the 32.0 grn.Then I still had primers blowing out. I mean blowing out.

Think about this. Low charges...signs of headspace issues...
 
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I know you verify the accuracy of your scales,but it sure does sound like the loading is way too hot..If this issue has only happened with a newly opened jug of powder ,and new box of bullets then maybe the problem is with them..You said you recently cleaned the bore.I wonder if you may have loosened some sort of fouling that may have resolidified in the bore..I don't know if it's even possible for this to happen,but I would clean it out again,it couldnt hurt..Yea definitly try factory ammo..And if you do take it to a Gun Smith I would ask him about rebarreling before you spend any money on your current issue..You say you shoot way more than you used to,and concidering the 22-250 is kinda hard on barrels anyways it may be better just to let him rebarrel it with either a new 22-250 barrel,or it would be a good opertunity to go with a new caliber.
Very good advice thank you. Not that the others aren't just good advice.
 
Tape? Seriously? That was this gunsmiths set of go and no-go gauges? (And he assumed the case was of the proper dimensions? Note that even a factory cartridge will likely be sized a little smaller than spec, to ensure it chambers even in a rifle with minimal headspace. Adding a piece of tape over that might get you to a 'go gauge' length. You really need a "no-go" or "field" gauge to better assess the problems you're seeing...for your own safety. Primers may move in the pocket, after the firing pin moves the case forward, and before the brass expands....but not enough for a primer to back out. That and case separation are classic signs of excessive headspace.)

A no-go gauge is about $25. If you find you have excessive headspace, it is likely all you need to do is set the barrel back a thread or so, and the problems will go away...and your rifle will likely be a better shooter.
I hear you on the tape. I think he just wanted to do a quick check since I had just walked in. Yes I know about the no go gauges. I don't have them but I am planning on getting that looked at. Thanks for your knowledge and time.


Think about this. Low charges...signs of headspace issues...
 
Well an update: Got a call from Bass Pro today that my gun was ready to be picked up. Went to the store and the gunsmith had it in the office waiting for me. I think he said that he took .002 off the barrel and reamed it out and test fired three rounds. The empty cases looked like they just came out of the box. And to top it off the price went from $130. to $65. Can't wait to try it out.
 
Well an update: Got a call from Bass Pro today that my gun was ready to be picked up. Went to the store and the gunsmith had it in the office waiting for me. I think he said that he took .002 off the barrel and reamed it out and test fired three rounds. The empty cases looked like they just came out of the box. And to top it off the price went from $130. to $65. Can't wait to try it out.

I see a happy ending.
 
Well I'm confused now and maybe someone can advise me of what is next. I got the gun back a couple of weeks ago from getting the head space repaired.The gun shoots fine with factory ammo.I have taken every new case and fully resized them. I have trimmed every case with a Lee trimmer to the same length,1.907. Cleaned primer pockets and charged each round with imr4064 34.0 gr. Calibrated scale and checked against another scale.I went yesterday and the first round was a factory rd. and fired fine. Next rd. was a reload which fired bullet exited barrel but primer was gone too.I forgot to say each round that I reloaded was below max length. I don't know if I forgot anything but I'm at a stand still now in knowing where I should go next. It it my dies, is it a bad batch of brass. Should I have someone else check the gun. I don't see it as the gun being it shoots factory ammo with no signs of pressure or anything. I am considering either not reloading anymore or selling the gun. Just very disgusted with everything.What would you do first?
 
Were you reloading the old brass that you reloaded (and fired) when the gun had excessive headspace?

If so, it may well have stretched/damaged that brass beyond usability.

I'd suggest working up a load, from the starting load, in new brass. (The brass from the factory loads you fired, after the headspace was corrected, should be OK.)

If I'm correct about your reloads being with brass that was once fired in the rifle with excessive headspace, I think your reloads using the factory brass, or a new batch of brass, should be fine. Load 10 for a test before you decide on anything drastic.
 
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Were you reloading the old brass that you reloaded (and fired) when the gun had excessive headspace?

If so, it may well have stretched that brass out.

I'd suggest working up a load, from the starting load, in new brass. (The brass from the factory loads you fired, should be OK.)
I just went and looked again because I've been going over and over the situation and it's older brass and once fired new stuff. The new brass has stretched primer pockets (win) and older brass (Rem) either sort of flattened primers or primers blown out.One question going through my little brain is could there be too much neck tension? Also even though I'm below max length (2.350") at 2.343", could I still be too long.I am going to try '243's idea and load 3 rds. at 31.3 and see what happens. So frustrating!
 
Ok guys I'll try new stuff with the 31.3 load and see how it reacts. Thanks for some direction.
 
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