351 WINCHESTER
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Which brass is better, Rem. or Winny?
22 Hornet brass
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loadedround
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I load both a 22 Hornet and a 22K-Hornet and found very little difference in either manufacturer's brass. Hornet brass is very thin and is prone to neck splits and case head separations. I have found if you first load new cases to a light or starting load and allow the case to fireform to fit your chamber so that it headspaces on both the shoulder and the rim, your cases will give you several more loadings. I would also suggest you get a neck size die and neck size only if you are shooting the Hornets in just one rifle. The neck size die will help case life also. Don't set back that shoulder!
dagger dog
Member
I shoot the Hornet, and have found the flash holes in the Remington brass to retain the slug that was punched out, like the "hanging chad". The Winchester brass has clean flash holes. This is with about 200 rnds Remington and 300 rnds Winchester. But just recently purchased 100 rnds nickle plated Remington and found them to be clean of such problems. I guess I might be a little too critical as I deburr flash holes as part of my initial brass processing.
I can get 4-5 loadings neck sizing only (Lee Collet) with 12.5-13 grains of Lil'Gun powder and 35 and 40 gr V-Max's, have found the Remington 61/2 primers to be the most accurate with CCI Benchrest small rifle a close second.
I can get 4-5 loadings neck sizing only (Lee Collet) with 12.5-13 grains of Lil'Gun powder and 35 and 40 gr V-Max's, have found the Remington 61/2 primers to be the most accurate with CCI Benchrest small rifle a close second.
jjohnson
Member
WW
Yep, I've had problems with Remington brass, too.
Hornet brass isn't all that durable to start with - thin walls and all - but I've had much better results with Winchester brass.
Yep, I've had problems with Remington brass, too.
Hornet brass isn't all that durable to start with - thin walls and all - but I've had much better results with Winchester brass.
GooseGestapo
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I must be doing something different. I get 10-15 loadings from Hornet brass.
I get slightly better accuracy from the W-W, but slightly longer life from the RP.
Heck, I've got some .22Hornet brass that I aquired in the late '70's. Mixed RP and Win.
However, the best Hornet brass I've used is the Sellier&Bellot. It is much more uniform that either the U.S. brands, and has a much smaller flash-hole- requiring a smaller decapping pin as with the .22 and 6mmPPC rounds. I routinely get under 1moa with my Ruger M77/22KBZ with Sierra 40gr HP's over either Hod LilGun or H110. Only match prepped Win will do that. (Neck turned for uniformity, reaming flash-holes and primer pockets, weight sorting (more important with the Hornet than any other cartridge......) ect.
Normally I don't do all the above any more, except with the Hornet. I've got 100 new Winny's that I haven't started on. Maybe some rainy day........
I get slightly better accuracy from the W-W, but slightly longer life from the RP.
Heck, I've got some .22Hornet brass that I aquired in the late '70's. Mixed RP and Win.
However, the best Hornet brass I've used is the Sellier&Bellot. It is much more uniform that either the U.S. brands, and has a much smaller flash-hole- requiring a smaller decapping pin as with the .22 and 6mmPPC rounds. I routinely get under 1moa with my Ruger M77/22KBZ with Sierra 40gr HP's over either Hod LilGun or H110. Only match prepped Win will do that. (Neck turned for uniformity, reaming flash-holes and primer pockets, weight sorting (more important with the Hornet than any other cartridge......) ect.
Normally I don't do all the above any more, except with the Hornet. I've got 100 new Winny's that I haven't started on. Maybe some rainy day........
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