.223 Jamming maybe a lube issue?

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Branden967

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First off I am new to reloading and I think I have figured this out but I wanted to run it by you guys, because I am second guessing myself.

I loaded up 50 rounds of .223 as a test batch. Off the 50 rounds 3 jammed and stuck really good. The bolt stopped approximately 1/4 of an inch from full closure. I tried the forward assist, didnt move, I tried to charge it again and that didnt move. The only way I could remove the cartridge was to break her open and pry the bolt assembly back. When the cartridge came out it was a milky / white color. The chamber was hot from other rounds. There was any other noticeable abnormalities to the cartridge. The primer was not struck.
When I made them for lube I used Hornadys case lube and fought that getting stuck in the press so I switched to unique and that worked fine. I tumble the rounds very lightly after I made them.

Im not sure If I just didnt tumble them long enough to get all the lube off or if theres another issue?


Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Gun and bullet specs if need.
Gun was a AR-15, rock river upper.
Bullet was a PMC brass with a Hornady's 55gr FMJ and 25.3 grains.
Press is a Hornady LNL progressive.

Thanks.
 
Sounds like the case is not properly sized. Clean the chamber and rd that wouldn't chamber, then check it to see if it will chamber clean.

Lube can cause a rd t not chamber, but I'm pretty sure this is not the case here. When excessive lube is the problem, the chamber will get built up with powder residue, causing it to not chamber.

Hint: If this happens to you again when you need the rifle to function, left hand on the handguard, right hand on the charging handle, give the rifle a couple swift strikes on the ground (butt first).
I should add: Keep the barrel pointed in a safe direction while doing this!
 
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Sounds like the case is not properly sized. Clean the chamber and rd that wouldn't chamber, then check it to see if it will chamber clean.

Lube can cause a rd t not chamber, but I'm pretty sure this is not the case here. When excessive lube is the problem, the chamber will get built up with powder residue, causing it to not chamber.

Hint: If this happens to you again when you need the rifle to function, left hand on the handguard, right hand on the charging handle, give the rifle a couple swift strikes on the ground (butt first).
I should add: Keep the barrel pointed in a safe direction while doing this!
I thought about slamming it on the ground, but I chickened out worrying it might be a hang fire with my head near the tip scared me. Ive also been kicking around the idea of installing a larger charging handle. Mine is hard to get my fat fingers on.
 
I thought about slamming it on the ground, but I chickened out worrying it might be a hang fire with my head near the tip scared me. Ive also been kicking around the idea of installing a larger charging handle. Mine is hard to get my fat fingers on.
If you do it as described, you don't have a whole lot to worry about. The FP doesn't have enough mass to set off a round, no matter how hard you hit the rifle, and unless the bolt is fully engaged, the bolt carrier's position won't allow a hammer strike on the FP.
 
Case not sized properly or the shoulder is slightly bulged from over crimping, which is very easy to do.
 
Case not sized properly or the shoulder is slightly bulged from over crimping, which is very easy to do.
Just a guess, but I bet Mr. Walkalong nailed it (seater die over-crimping). This would explain why only some of the cases are not feeding.
 
I dont think Im over crimping because Im using Hornady's new dimension die (Not a real strong crimp at all.) Which Im not a fan of. Im looking at buying a set of Lee dies.
Im new to reloading but if you over crimp a bottle neck cartridge wouldnt it squash the neck and bulge out? Reason I asked is I had a perfect OAL length at 2.200. The reason I know it was the test batch, I checked everyone of them.
 
I don't know anything about the Hornady new dimension die, but most seater dies will crimp and the crimp varies based on case length. If using the seater die to crimp, all cases must be trimmed to the same length. If it were me, I would not use the crimp feature with the seating die. Back the die out of the press a full turn to 1.5 turns, then reajust the seating stem to proper bullet depth. You don't have to crimp; if you want to anyway, get a crimp die (lee makes a very good one).
 
Also, I would get a case gauge. I've used Wilson and Dillon and like them both. It's a really good tool to have. A lot of people use their chamber as a guage, but I think a guage works better for an AR type rifle.
 
This shoulder is slightly bulged. Doesn't look like much, does it. The cannelure, which is all over the place on Win 55 Gr FMJ's, was too low on this round and the roll crimp on the case mouth had no where to go. The tighter the chamber the worse the problem.

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Perfect, thanks for the info. Im going to order a case gauge. That sounds like easiest solution.
 
Solve this problem by not crimping.

Not only do you not need to w/ normal neck tension,
but it introduces potential for a whole family of problems.
 
This shoulder is slightly bulged. Doesn't look like much, does it. The cannelure, which is all over the place on Win 55 Gr FMJ's, was too low on this round and the roll crimp on the case mouth had no where to go. The tighter the chamber the worse the problem.


See the fun you get with crimping 223 rounds?:cuss:

I don't crimp 223 rounds . I do have other issues, just this weekend dropped 20 points in rapid fire sitting due to blown primers in Federal brass. That sucked. But no jams due to crimping.

I would like to copy your picture and use it as an example of crimping issues.

This that OK?
 
I would like to copy your picture and use it as an example of crimping issues.

This that OK?
Absolutely. :)

I like to crimp my plinking/blasting/rainy day ammo. I taper crimp those cheap 55 Gr FMJ's now instead of roll crimping. The roll crimp is fine on trimmed cases and bullets with consistent cannelures though.

I also crimp hunting ammo.

I do not crimp anything I load for accuracy using quality bullets. AC
 
I had a simular problem when I did not set the size die up right. As a result, I set the size die up to touch the shell holder when the ram is all the way up then give it another 1/4 turn down.

I alo take a sample of sized brass and make sure they chamber and eject with ease before loading. I take a sample of loaded rounds and check those. Once you have ammo that won't chamber or eject at a match, you'll under stand.
 
I have had some slight belling due to the neck not being chamfered on the inside and the bullet catching then pushing the neck down slightly. This might also have been the problem. Not as likely with boat tail bullets however.
 
I don't think I'm over crimping because I'm using Hornady's new dimension die (Not a real strong crimp at all.) Which I'm not a fan of. Im looking at buying a set of Lee dies.
I'm new to reloading but if you over crimp a bottle neck cartridge wouldn't it squash the neck and bulge out? Reason I asked is I had a perfect OAL length at 2.200. The reason I know it was the test batch, I checked everyone of them.

That's what is happening. As walkalong said, it does NOT take much bulge at the shoulder/case junction to prevent the round from chambering. A tiny amount of extra case length will cause it as will the random location of the cannelure.

As said, you do NOT need to crimp ar-15 rounds. IF you already have proper case neck tension.
 
Perfect, thanks for the info. Im going to order a case gauge. That sounds like easiest solution.

Case gauges for rifle rounds are not chamber gauges. They measure shoulder position relative to the base and the overall length of the case. Other dimensions are cut generously.

A round could fit in the case gauge and yet still not chamber in your rifle due to a bulged shoulder.

Read the case gauge manufacturer's fine print.

Some folks with custom rifles and chambers have the gunsmith cut a special, custom chamber gauge with the same reamer used to cut the rifle's chamber.

Pistol cartridges are a different story, but the pistol's barrel is the best case gauge.
 
Case gauges for rifle rounds are not chamber gauges. They measure shoulder position relative to the base and the overall length of the case. Other dimensions are cut generously.

A round could fit in the case gauge and yet still not chamber in your rifle due to a bulged shoulder.

Read the case gauge manufacturer's fine print.

I did not know that. Thanks.
 
Some folks with custom rifles and chambers have the gunsmith cut a special, custom chamber gauge with the same reamer used to cut the rifle's chamber.


I have reamer cut gages. Gages that were cut with the same reamer as cut the chamber on my match gas guns. I have them in 308, 30-06 and .223.

Call Frank at Compass Lake Engineering. He charged me about $35.00 for my .223 gage.

You can drop a finished cartridge in one of these and if the round is not perfect, you will see it.
 
Are you regularly cleaning the chamber of your rifle with something more than just a bore snake? I had this problem with a few rounds but it went away after I took the chamber brush for AR-15/M-16's and cleaned the dickens out of the chamber as well as the locking lug area. Just one of the many little things to keep up on.
 
Are you regularly cleaning the chamber of your rifle with something more than just a bore snake? I had this problem with a few rounds but it went away after I took the chamber brush for AR-15/M-16's and cleaned the dickens out of the chamber as well as the locking lug area. Just one of the many little things to keep up on.
The chamber was very clean. There were maybe only a 150 rounds threw it before I ran the reloads.

SlamFire1, I like the idea of the gauges cut for my rifle. Can you give more details about Franks contact info?

Did you have to send him your upper?
 
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