25-5

[S.B.]

I recently sent my S&W 4" model 25-5(non-pinned/1980s) back to Smith for some repairs(I had bulged the cylinder with some bad handloads). Last week I was contacted ty a gentleman calling himself "Vito". He was worried about removing my barrel and suggested I go to a 5" barrel. I wasn't for this, I bought this gun because it was a very good length for packing and stated so. He wanted to cut my barrel off and use an easy out to remove the stub, he told me that older S&Ws were always possible to split the frames while removing the barrels? He also stated the cylinder he tried in my gun(not the cylinder that would be installed in my gun) would have a B/C gap out of spec .009"(his reason for wanting to remove the barrel)? I now own S&Ws with more cylinder gap than this, straight from the factory?
I also sent with this gun a standard combat trigger and hammer to be installed with repair(at the same time). He informed me that the cocking notch looked to be out of spec and would probably push off if installed?
This isn't my first experience with S&Ws and not my first experience with haviong one repaired by the factory and I pretty sure this man was the repairman other times?
Sounds to me like he's trying to sell me a new barrel and not install the hammer?
What would the difference be between using an easy out and using a proper fitting jig to remove the barrel(if it even needs to be removed)? Couldn't he use a hard stone to deepen the cocking notch in the hammer?

Puzzled with S&W repair center, Steve

 

[loadedround]

If that were my revolver, then I would want a 2nd or possible 3rd opinion. Why not call S&W back and talk with the dept. mgr. or "Vito's supervisor? It sounds like you are getting a crock of s--t. JMHO

 

[Black Knight]

I'm like loadedround, something doesn't sound right. I would talk to someone else there just so the story gets straight. It seem to me that he should take his B/C gap measurements with the cylinder he is going to put on it not some other one.

 

[Jim Watson]

Sounds spooky to me, but I have several times seen Vito mentioned as the lead gunsmith at S&W.

 

[S.B.]

Thanks, every replier has echoed my sentiments. Something smells rotten, here?
Steve

 

[orionengnr]

Have you posted over on SWForum.com?
I've never heard of anything like this...

 

[David E]

I was told that _I_ snagged the last 5" barrel for my 25-5.

If you have a chance to get a 5", DO IT. It's the ideal length for this gun. Mine cost $200 installed at the factory.

As to the flash gap, Vito is fitting a cylinder to your existing barrel that was originally mated to the cylinder YOU ruined.

I believe when they mate a barrel and cylinder together, the excess is removed from the BARREL, not the cylinder, so the situation Vito describes certainly is plausible.

S&W has too many other guns and customers to try and screw you out of a barrel.

I suppose you could tell him to simply unscrew the barrel and assume the risk of the frame splitting.....

Or, tell Vito to call up Ed Brown for information on how to make a "cerro-safe" barrel removal tool. If he can safely remove your barrel, he should be able to machine the barrel back so he can get one more turn into the frame, closing up the flash gap.

 

[Oro]

A 25-5 is an odd bird. You wrecked the barrel. I am not surprised they don't have a stock 4" barrel for you. You could pay them to modify a 5" bbl to 4", but that would be on your dime. 5" N frames do balance well, but 4" packs some much better. I understand your desire to keep it 4".

Th b/c gap can be adjusted; this is what machinists do. There is no reason it has to "be" a .009" gap. The barrel shoulder can be machined a turn deeper, then the excess taken off the barrel end. That part is indeed nonsense; unless he doesn't know how to do it that way.

if you sent aftermarket or parts form other guns to be installed (the trigger and hammer), it's not unreasonable that they have been worn or will be out of spec in your frame when mounted; that part does not sounds suspect at all. Did you inspect those parts to make sure they had not been fit or altered prior to mailing them in? No, he can't use a stone to deepen the cocking notch as it will cut through the case hardening and leave soft steel which will rapidly wear out of spec.

All in all, what they are saying is sound based on what I read from your story. You may well want to talk to another gunsmith there just to help you understand it better, but I do not see a big deal except I don't understand the .009" gap - I don't understand why there is a cylinder change going on? There were a few details missing in the narrative.

 

[David E]

He said in the OP that he ruined the CYLINDER, not the barrel.

I agree, it wasn't easy to follow.

 

[Oro]

He said in the OP that he ruined the CYLINDER, not the barrel.

I agree, it wasn't easy to follow.

Ok, got it. Thanks.

So they should be able to remove the barrel if they need to turn it back a bit to make the b/c work to spec. That is not too much to ask from the frackin' factory. If they can't do it, others can. Switching to a new barrel isn't necessarily them trying to sell you a new barrel, it's just lazy or ignorant machinists. If "Vito" doesn't now how to do it, then talk to someone older who does.