30/06 crimped primers

[swg1]

After you deactivate any live primers with some WD-40, you can use this to deprime.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013Z93VS?tag=proreviewb-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1&keywords=Depriming Tool

Probably want to get one for 223 as well. Makes a nice set, good for all your crimped primer woes.

 

[Blue68f100]

WD40 will not kill a primer. You have to have a solvent that will dissolve the sealer on them and put the primer compound back into solution. In this liquid state it's safe. As soon as it dries out it's an explosive again.

Primers are one tough critter.

Primers are designed to go off on impact, anvil pinching the compound. Depriming a live round is removing the anvil away from the compound in tyhe opposite direction. Use a universal deprimer when doing this for safety. So if by some rare accourance you do set one off the pressure is not contained so the gases can escape. Using a regular die there is no easy escape for the gases, unless you use a caliber that is larger.

I've never had one go off doing it. Just go slow. Primers are designed to go off on impact.

 

[swg1]

That is good info and much appreciated. I stand corrected.

This makes me curious to test this now.

WD40 will not kill a primer. You have to have a solvent that will dissolve the sealer on them and put the primer compound back into solution. In this liquid state it's safe. As soon as it dries out it's an explosive again.

Primers are one tough critter.

Primers are designed to go off on impact, anvil pinching the compound. Depriming a live round is removing the anvil away from the compound in tyhe opposite direction. Use a universal deprimer when doing this for safety. So if by some rare accourance you do set one off the pressure is not contained so the gases can escape. Using a regular die there is no easy escape for the gases, unless you use a caliber that is larger.

I've never had one go off doing it. Just go slow. Primers are designed to go off on impact.

 

[Swampman]

...Depriming a live round is removing the anvil away from the compound in tyhe opposite direction...

While I agree with most of your post, the above statement regarding movement of the anvil in relation to the priming compound is incorrect.

When the decapping pin contacts the anvil it pushes it directly against the pellet of priming compound. That's why it's so important to use slow steady pressure when removing live primers, especially from heavily crimped military brass.

 

[illinoisburt]

I have decapped, swaged, and reloaded a fair amount of those Korean 30-06 brass. It's really not that difficult. My suggestion to make the process as smooth as possible is #1 use a lube pad and old fashion case lube. Brush the inside of the case necks with a small amount as well. This will greatly reduce the resistance to resizing and allow more of the leverage to be concentrated on the primers. Speaking of, for these I have the recapping pin extend a full 1/4" out of the die. The primer cup is ring staked and sealed as well. They actually stretch a bit first then pull out. Haven't broken any of the standard thin Lyman decapping pins in my dies with a Lee classis turret on these as yet. They do need to be swaged and trimmed before reloading. It's decent brass, much heavier than commercial Remington or Winchester.