I reload .30-06 on a Dillon 550B, so at least I have some experience in doing what you're contemplating...
I'm far from an expert, but I have played around with this particular problem over the last year or so.
There is an ongoing debate between full-length resizing vs. neck sizing for bolt-actions. Is full length resizing necessary? Generally not. The action has enough mechanical advantage that it can chamber something that would make a semi-auto fail to chamber. However, a lot of shooters are getting better accuracy with full-length resizing, in bolt-actions.
There is another point to the debate which is brass life. Proponents of neck sizing say it makes your brass last longer. Maybe, as long as you're not shooting maximum loads. If you're doing that, brass life tends to be shorter no matter what you do for resizing. The other side to this is, if you resize a couple thousandths smaller than
your rifle's headspace, you minimize stretch during firing and this increases brass life, even if you full-length resize.
What do I do? I full-length resize for all my .30-06 rifles. The Garand requires it, and the #1 and bolt-action's accuracy and brass life have not suffered. For the Garand, I crimp lightly and for the other rifles I have this backed off so it does nothing at station #4. I use a cartridge headspace gauge to set up the resizing die and check the results against it. For the Garand, I'm resizing to SAAMI minimum. For the bolt-action and #1, 0.002" to 0.003" less than measured fired cartridge shoulder distance (between the steps on the headspace gauge.)
As I'm not trying to reload once-fired brass from machine guns, I haven't found the need for small base dies with the Garand. However, I do use a Sinclair primer pocket cutter to uniform new Nosler and Winchester brass. This, together with making sure the 550B shellplate is not loose, ensures the "below flush" primer seating depth that I want.
As far as a loading sequence goes, I tumble the brass first, then lube, resize/deprime/reprime and toss in a bin. When I get 100 ready, I clean off excess lube, check length with a COL gauge and toss in two bins (ready / needs to be trimmed.) I then run the overlength ones through a Hornady case trimmer and inside/outside chamfer with a hand tool. Then these go into the "ready" bin.
Working from the ready bin, I insert brass in station 1 of the 550B and index before pulling the lever. (This way I just skip the resizing die and I don't have to remove/reinstall it.) The rest of the loading operation is progressive.
While it isn't absolutely necessary to "break out" lube cleaning and checking for length/trimming, I find this works better for me. There are many variations on reloading bottleneck cartridges on progressive presses, and the 550B is flexible enough to work quite well with almost any routine.