.30 .30 reloading advice

[biogenic]

Just got a used marlin 336 and I want to reload since off the shelf ammo is so darn expensive. New to reloading so I need some help on what basics I need and what kind of powder y'all recommend for the .30 .30. I found this link for bullets and such...

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/leverevolution.asp

 

[jfrey]

Each of my sons has a 336 and they like to plink and target shoot with them. I came up with a mid range load using 4064 powder and 125 gr. lead bullets. I already had the 4064 so I used it and it works well in that gun. I would have probably picked 4831 or 4895 instead if I didn't already have the powder on hand.

 

[NCsmitty]

The 30-30 is such a great versatile round and the old reliable 150-170gr flat nose soft points still take game as they did 100 years ago. IMR 3031 or any of the 4895 family of powders will get it done, as well as several other types.
New innovations in bullets like the 160gr Hornady FTX extend the range another 25yds or so and when used with Hodgdon's new Lever powder, real gains in velocity can be realized, at standard pressures.
Just remember that a lever action has pressure limits that needs to be respected due to the rear bolt lockup.
Proper case preparation and attention to detail with some information from books on the subject will go a long way to making your transition pleasant.

Have fun and be safe.



NCsmitty

 

[ssyoumans]

Careful loading Leverevolution powder and FTX bullets. Several folks on here reported case failures a full grain below max using hornady brass. The FTX bullets are a bit tricky to load, my seating die was all the way in and applying a crimp in order to seat to correct depth. I have since ordered a longer seating stem for my lee dies. Have some, but haven't tried the lever powder.
Been real happy with Sierra 125gr HPFN bullets and TAC powder. Can get 2500 fps and has been more accurate than any 150's out of my 336.
Congrats on your 30-30, I think everyone should own one, no collection is complete without it.

 

[res45]

I don't shoot factory ammo in my Sav. 30-30 rifle I cast all my own bullets,but I realize many can't do this. If you like to try cast bullets in your 30-30 several commercial casters all make RNFP bullets for the 30-30 some ever have the gas check shank already on the bullet base if you want to apply one yourself and push the bullets up close to there factory velocity.

For plinking and small game loads I use the Lee 170 gr. RNFP bullet and 8.0 grs. of Red Dot MV runs right between 1200 & 1300 fps. depending on rifle used and there are other powders to will work just as well for light loads. Two light coats of Lee Alox and no gas check and no bullet sizing are need for this load. at 50 yds. with the irons you can put 10 rds. inside an inch with most touching. they cost me about 8 cents each to produce.

For big game hunting I use the same bullet with the gas check applied and ranch dip the bullets before sizing to .310 dia. I use 28.0 grs. of H335 which give me around 2100 fps. this load is as accurate at 100 yds. as any factory load and drops deer size game just as dead as factory ammo. Most of the areas around here are heavily wooded and 100 yds. would be considered a long shot. The big game loads cost me about 15 cents each to produce,I don't factor in the brass cost because I picked it up for free at the range and I probably have enough to last a lifetime.

 

[popper]

H-335 with FTX or 170 Sierra flat nose. 10 grn. Unique for Hornady plinker - no recoil and pretty accurate at 100 yds, easy on brass. I haven't tried the 'lever' powder and probably won't. For 308 ME and Marlin 336, I can't tell the difference between H335 and 8208 XBR. XBR is supposed to be similar to 4895. XBR meters a little 'crunchy'. Don't have a crony, so I just go with results on pie plates. I've been thinking of trying cast from a guy in SC (I think).

 

[[email protected]]

You will need the dies and some type of case trimmer and a chamfer tool. I assume that you already have the basics such as a press and a powder scale. I have tried three different powders in 30-30. First was IMR-4198. This is a "stick"powder. I never could get a velocity high enough to suite me, but it made some really nice low recoil 30-30 rounds. Next I tried and used blc-2 and it worked good but my velocity varied more than I liked with winchester large rifle primers and it got to the point in load development that the more powder I used the lower velocity I got. I tried magnum primers and it fixed this. I later decided that I no longer wished to stock two different large rifle primers so off powder hunting I went. I have since settled on hodgen H4895 as my powder for the 30-30 as well as .223. I was also using hornady 150gn rn bullets.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

IMR3031 is the "classic" powder for loading the 30-30 but there's nothing wrong with using 4064 or 4895 like mentioned above. I have tried all 3 and gotten good results but I seem to get the best accuracy when using IMR3031. I'm sure the same accuracy can be achieved if you play around with the other powders a bit.

Another very good choice would be W748. It's accurate and produced good velocity. Hodgdon's new Leverevolution is also worth a try. I bought some but didn't get to load any yet.

 

[biogenic]

Very good info ! It's amazing how much you can learn about reloading. Thanks !
Can anyone recommend their favorite source to buy their lead bullets, brass, powder and primers etc ?

 

[NCsmitty]

Can anyone recommend their favorite source to buy their lead bullets, brass, powder and primers etc?

You need to base your purchases on the amount of reloading that you plan to do.
If you want to go whole hog, you can make up a large order and contact the people at Powder Valley or Pat's Reloading or one of the warehouse type vendors and you will save money, but you need to know what you want.

Most people who want to develop loads, start out buying a couple pounds of powder that the manuals show to have potential and maybe a couple boxes of bullets and a few hundred primers and either brass or loaded ammo that you can reload after firing.
Your local gunshop can usually provide everything that you need to get started, and then when you settle on your components that work, bulk orders from the online stores will save you money.
Powders and primers require that you pay a fixed shipping hazmat fee, so ordering them online can be expensive unless you get larger quantities.
So starting out, check out the prices at your local gunshops and give them the business, and many will have good advice for the asking.



NCsmitty

 

[biogenic]

Your local gunshop can usually provide everything that you need to get started, and then when you settle on your components that work, bulk orders from the online stores will save you money.
Powders and primers require that you pay a fixed shipping hazmat fee, so ordering them online can be expensive unless you get larger quantities.
So starting out, check out the prices at your local gunshops and give them the business, and many will have good advice for the asking.

My local gun store is not very close to me and the guy that runs it is always grumpy and he acts like he's doing you a favor when you want to purchase a firearm or other stuff from his store. My fav store is about 90 miles away...
With all that said my local shopping choices are very limited...