.30-30 Win reloading problems

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rc, I've wondered about the Lee FCD die for the .30-30. In your opinion it is worth having?

I have one for my .40 S&W, mainly to remove any low case bulges using the Bulge Buster kit, and I like the way it works. I've been known to wrinkle my .38 spl and .357 mag cases now and then by trying to apply too heavy of a crimp. None of my mistakes were so bad they wouldn't shoot but they did need a "nudge" to seat all the way into the cylinder. :uhoh:
 
Are you saying your are using the same die with the decapping rod out of the 30-06 or are you using the other die.If you are using the same die with the rod out of the 30-06 die you had to something else because they are the same.I just talked to RCBS a couple days ago about it I was having a problem with bullet tension they only make one size expander button for 30 cal. I had to turn mine down a little.
 
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I just said something about the 06 dies because I compared the .30-30 dies to them. both have stamping on the tops and when I laid the two side by side I could tell the .30-30 dies had the wrong guts!

It makes sense now when I dropped the cases into the die, and it was really the seating die, they just fell in and out. Tried it after I got things sorted out and the would not drop completely into the true resizing die.

rc called it right off, something was not right. :)
 
When buying used dies ANYTHING is possible.:D I have a pile of spare parts that I have removed from used dies that I had to correct. Usually getting the replacments for free I might add. And I find uses for them when I break something most times just by pawing around in the parts bin.
 
rc , go rite ahead !!

I`m just trying to grasp why or how ???

Someone putting die parts together that new they were dies but just did`nt know which went where ????

OP post #4, I think they could`ve been passed along from an estate maybe .
 
Been loading lead bullets for years. I use the M-die religiously. Long ago I removed the expander ball from my 30-30 sizing die, RCBS used to make a nut to replace the ball, but you can just use a smaller ball that does not touch or size. All expanding is done with the M-die, this is easier on the arm and I find necks are less likely to strech. The Lee crimp die is great but not required to get good shooting cartrages, I use them.

Good job trouble shooting this problem. If you are going to keep reloading the 30-30 watch for more used dies I have at lease 4, last one I got is an old Lyman A-A it sizes the necks to an OD of .323 inch my other dies wale the necks down to .319 inch much smaller in diameter than they need to be. Then the expander just strech them back out, over working the brass neck. I even bought a new RCBS 'X' die it was not worth the shipping for me (I like RCBS just not that one).

Keep throwing lead down range, and smile.
 
I find the 30-30 to be a tedious caliber to load for IMO. Yes, it is pretty straight forward, and there are many recipes, but it just seems more tedious to get good accuracy. Might be the platform, but I had to work really hard to get under MOA out of my lever guns.
 
Paul24, I'll check with RCBS about undersized expander balls. Right now I'm running my cases through the standard resizer/decapper die with standard (.306") expnder ball in place. I then remove the decapping stem (ball and all) and run the cases through a second time.

Yes I know I'm performing extra steps but I'm also not pressed for time and I load only a couple dozen rounds at a time. Since I plan on using the "M" die for expanding I could just turn (grind) the old expander ball down a bit.
 
Old Grumpy said:
Paul24, I'll check with RCBS about undersized expander balls. Right now I'm running my cases through the standard resizer/decapper die with standard (.306") expnder ball in place. I then remove the decapping stem (ball and all) and run the cases through a second time.

Yes I know I'm performing extra steps but I'm also not pressed for time and I load only a couple dozen rounds at a time. Since I plan on using the "M" die for expanding I could just turn (grind) the old expander ball down a bit.
Click to expand...
You could use a universal decapping die (no sizing) and remove the stem from the sizer die 'permanently'. Less working of the brass.
 
No need to run them thru the second time .306 ball is fine, it is line to line with the first stage of the M-die. It will work just fine until you get a smaller ball. By passing twice thru the sizing die you are working the neck more than neccesary, not worried about you just the brass. You can deprime with a pin punch over a 1/4 hole in you bench or a piece of steel or hard wood. Lee makes a niffty little punch but the base supplied is for rimless 30 cal. it works good just flip it over and eye ball center. I often deprime by hand so the primers are out when the brass goes into the tumbler.

Your vintage die is about the same age as my standard RCBS die and I was able to buy a nut with no ball not even a swell above the nerl, that was in the early 90's I tried recently no joy. The old staight wall dies had just the nut on the decapping stem look just like a miniture lamp finial. RCBS no longer list stem parts but sell the new style stem assembles complete, so just get one for a smaller caliber. Grinding the ball is not a bad option. I just check my 45 cal pistal dies one is 78 the other 9 (have to assume 2009) those stems are idenical to each other and will work fine in my 71 30-30 die.

How are loads shooting?

Eb1 my hat is off to any one who gets 1 MOA with a lever gun. That is the beauty of reloading and diligence.
 
Paul24, I'm waiting for a break in the weather and for my pre-Christmas work to be finished. I'll post a report once I get some data.
 
I've had several guys tell me the .30-30 is an easy round to reload (maybe that's why it's been around over 100 years)
Click to expand...

Ya had me thinking what in the heck is going on.........????

First time I loaded 30-30, there was no problem. But I was loading jacketed bullets with my for real RCBS dies. ;)

I did order a Forester 30-30 match seating die for fun. I'm working on a project to see if I can't get my 336 which shoots pretty well to shoot a little better.
 
P-32, Right now all I'm loading are cast bullets. If they do all right I'll try some jacketed rounds. I'm leaning toward Hornady but that's not set in stone. Do you have any suggestions for something 150gr to 170gr?
 
Hornady FTX, GMX if you can afford them, Sierra RN 150, 170, M1 carbine, etc. Just about anything 308. FCD or taper crimp if no crimp groove. One in the chamber - one in the tube for pointy nose bullets, except FTX,GMX.
 
It's pretty obvious why you should not use pointy bullets in a tubular magazine but I've always wondered why you could not use pointy bullets and treat the weapon like a trapdoor carbine (one round at a time or one in the chamber and one in the magazine)?

I guess it's the fun of rapidly levering several rounds through the weapon like they do in the movies. Of course they always hit their mark! :)
 
Actually you can.

But why?

A spitzer bullet in an iron sighted 30-30 carbine will make absolutely no difference in how far you can hit anything with iron sights.

The other thing is, flat point or round nose 30-30 bullets are designed to expand at 30-30 velocity.
And the crimp cannulure is in the right place for tube magazine feeding.

Most .308 Spitzers aren't either one.

rc
 
"Hornady has taken their Flex Tip Expanding bullet they use in their LEVERevolution and made it available in a projectile only. The patented Flex Tip bullet features an interlocking design that keeps the core of the bullet and the jacket together creating a deeper penetrating, more humane kill. Not only that, they offer controlled expansion, enhanced accuracy and the delivery of flatter trajectories.

These bullets are safe to use in all tubular magazines, as well as any other firearm. This is not loaded ammunition." Quoted from MIDWAYUSA.com

These are Spitzers made for lever guns with tube magazines, cannulure is in the correct place. These bullets live up their claims. I find even with iron sights there is a gain in effective killing range. Energy at 200 yards is substantially higher than the age old flat nose. Two hundred yards is a tough shot with iron sights but it sounds like you are going to stay in practice. Keep waling the lead down range lots of meat has been put on the tables of hunters with flat nose. The elevation correction is required when changing from flat nose to pointed.

If you have some 160 grain or so pointed bullets available, try them single shot. No need to crimp shooting single shot. When ejecting an unfired round make sure the bullet comes with it.
 
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