.32 S&W Long reloading

[40-82]

Agreed. Start low, go easy, a handful at a time. Like six at a time at first.

I suppose someone going for a minimum battery might skip the .32's, but that'd be a shame. They're such a fascinating niche. There's this too: if you pick up a pre-war Colt or Smith in one of the big calibers you're going to pay dearly for it. The little .32's have that same elegant workmanship, reminiscent of that time gone by, and they're not generally of comparable expense, unless you look at exceptions like the K-32.

 

[boom boom]

Agreed. Start low, go easy, a handful at a time. Like six at a time at first.

Yes, it would be a bit difficult to pull wadcutters with a bullet puller. Thanks for the reminder.

I am planning to do function checks with some factory wadcutters first and then shoot the reloads. Initially, I only load and shoot a single bullet first, then load two-fire two, and so on. I once fired some .38 SPC reloads that my FIL did and it stuck a bullet in the bore with the first shot and I had the cylinder fully loaded. Suspect that there was no powder in as it did not totally clear the chamber. I took it to my gunsmith to deal with it as I prefer not mess with loaded firearms in such a state. He fixed and and no harm done to the revolver. I no longer shoot anyone else's reloads.

A second time when I made a mistake was when I loaded about 200 rounds of 9mm and the truncated cone bullet profile did not fit the plunk test in the barrel (it was a German Sig with a tight throat) and 9mm can be touchy about seating depth. Either I pulled all of the bullets or figured out a way to shoot them. Ended up buying a 3rd Gen S&W 9mm cheap just to use the ammo and bullets and they fired just fine.

Since then, I don't load much up until I make sure that it functions in my firearms.

 

[Dudedog]

Can't find the info right at the moment but I emailed Western Powders and they sent me info for AA#2 in .32 S+W long.
Will see if I can find it.
senior moments.

 

[Dudedog]

Couldn't find it on my PC but THR to the rescue
(I found where I posted it here before)

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...er-ramshot-and-accurate.812785/#post-10398924

From Western
Caliber: .32 Smith &Wesson Long
Barrel length: 4”
Powder: Accurate – No 2®.
Application: Target / WC projectiles
COL: ca 0.920” (assuming this OAL is just for the HBWCs)
Bullet weight: 98 grains. -- HBWC
Start load: 1.5 grains (600 – 650 Fps)
Maximum load: 1.8 grains (720 – 750 Fps).
Standard Projectiles/bullets
Bullet weight: 75-77 grains. -- RN-FB
Start load: 2.3 grains (ca 725 Fps)
Maximum load: 2.8 grains (ca 875 Fps).
Bullet weight: 100 grains. -- RN-FB
Start load: 2.2 grains (650 – 700 Fps)
Maximum load: 2.5 grains (725 – 775 Fps).

NOTES:
It’ important to note that SAFETY is our prime concern therefore we strongly recommend.
1. ALWAYS BEGIN LOADING AT THE RECOMMENDED MINIMUM “START” LOAD and develop loads in 2% increments towards the MAXIMUM load.
2. CAUTION: Beware of double charging if the loading density is below 50% of the available volume.

 

[Walkalong]

I just checked my Load Log and I did 5 rounds at first (What the Benelli holds), and then did some 10 round tests, which was two mags worth..

 

[boom boom]

Couldn't find it on my PC but THR to the rescue
(I found where I posted it here before)

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...er-ramshot-and-accurate.812785/#post-10398924

From Western
Caliber: .32 Smith &Wesson Long
Barrel length: 4”
Powder: Accurate – No 2®.
Application: Target / WC projectiles
COL: ca 0.920” (assuming this OAL is just for the HBWCs)
Bullet weight: 98 grains. -- HBWC
Start load: 1.5 grains (600 – 650 Fps)
Maximum load: 1.8 grains (720 – 750 Fps).
Standard Projectiles/bullets
Bullet weight: 75-77 grains. -- RN-FB
Start load: 2.3 grains (ca 725 Fps)
Maximum load: 2.8 grains (ca 875 Fps).
Bullet weight: 100 grains. -- RN-FB
Start load: 2.2 grains (650 – 700 Fps)
Maximum load: 2.5 grains (725 – 775 Fps).

NOTES:
It’ important to note that SAFETY is our prime concern therefore we strongly recommend.
1. ALWAYS BEGIN LOADING AT THE RECOMMENDED MINIMUM “START” LOAD and develop loads in 2% increments towards the MAXIMUM load.
2. CAUTION: Beware of double charging if the loading density is below 50% of the available volume.

Thanks. That has vanished from the most recent guide. I can get Accurate #2 ok as well.

 

[RealGun]

I used Missouri's 78 gr coated round nose and got impressive accuracy. That light bullet should give significantly less recoil than the 32-20 and WC weights that others have mentioned. I don't see where it has to be a wadcutter, but sure, that is what the match shooters use. My load was 2.8 of Bullseye (.32 cc). A caveat is that some of those bullets were undersize and dropped right in when I placed them for seating. I got several culls.

 

[George P]

Yes, it would be a bit difficult to pull wadcutters with a bullet puller. Thanks for the reminder.

Not if you use the kinetic hammer type.......

 

[boom boom]

Not if you use the kinetic hammer type.......

I always make a mess with mine someway somehow as I have two left feet and two left hands and am right handed. I spill the powder, drop the bullet and have it roll under the reloading bench or dent a cast bullet, etc. As a result, I generally use collet types and I have my kinetic puller somewhere under my reloading bench.

 

[George P]

I put a yellow foam ear plug in the bottom of the kinetic to protect bullet tips

 

[Walkalong]

I still don't own a bullet puller, if I need to pull a couple I do it with pliers. Only works if there is enough bullet showing.

 

[boom boom]

Walkalong,
I don't have enough sense of feeling in my hands anymore to judge how much force I am applying so using pliers, I would probably damage the bullet.
GeorgeP, thanks for that tip (literally). I have plenty of those things laying around and that is an easy upgrade. I better do it tomorrow though before I forget it in a senior moment.

 

[Walkalong]

I don't have enough sense of feeling in my hands anymore to judge how much force I am applying so using pliers, I would probably damage the bullet.

Oh I do to, they are scrap if I pull them, but a bullet or two isn't a big deal, I just pulled and scrapped two Bergers the other day (Decided to change something). I guess I could have saved them for fire forming.

I can't wait to see a range report. .

32s are addicting.

Keep an eye out online for a nice 1905 .32-20, they are not in high demand and can be had very reasonable. You can shoot those same bullets in them.

 

[boom boom]

Oh I do to, they are scrap if I pull them, but a bullet or two isn't a big deal, I just pulled and scrapped two Bergers the other day (Decided to change something). I guess I could have saved them for fire forming.

I can't wait to see a range report. .

32s are addicting.

Keep an eye out online for a nice 1905 .32-20, they are not in high demand and can be had very reasonable. You can shoot those same bullets in them.

The Scot in me winces at the thought of damaged Berger rifle bullets. Och man, you were throwing quarters if not dollars away.

Thanks for the recommendation for a Hand Ejector 1905 in .32-20. The .32-20 is definitely a reloading proposition but would be an excellent addition as brass and bullets are available. I tend to like buying firearms in bore size groups where I can share some bullets and usually powders between them as I am running out of space for reloading activities. I'll buy an oddball every now and then like a Berthier or a Steyr m95 only if I get it dirt cheap.

I've seen a couple of .32-20's online when searching for .32's at attractive prices compared with one in .38 SPC. Currently all of my revolver purchases have been in person because I can test the action for timing, etc. before purchase.

An online purchase would have to cheaper to account for possible repair costs and definite transfer/shipping costs. I am somewhat familiar with the later S&W actions but not with the Hand Ejector specifically. Are these difficult and/or expensive to fix internals?

 

[Walkalong]

Are these difficult and/or expensive to fix internals?

I don't know. Yea, gotta be careful buying online, but overall I have had good luck.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

I'm afraid to buy an old Colt or S&W hand ejector on line. I'd love to but am just a afraid to. I'm watching all these recipes for 32 S&W long because I have an old hand ejector that is in mint condition and I want to shoot it but I got a hell of a deal on it and don't want to ruin it's value by breaking it's cherry so to speak.
I wanted one that was in really good condition to shoot and enjoy and what happens? I walk into my LGS and there's a new, old stock, unfired 1947 hand ejector 5 screw, so I ask to look at it. I offer him $400.00 for it thinking that there's no way.
The counter guy said " no, probably not" and the guy sitting on the stool said yes.
My credit card made my wallet jump out of my back pocket and open, and it jumped into the guys hand before I could react. It all happened so fast I can't remember!
Anyways, I really don't want to turn this old, pristine classic into just another used gun so I still don't have a 32 long I can't shoot.
What the hell?

 

[FROGO207]

Well at least in my world everything I have will be shot/used. I ought to have a big sign made with the circle and slash over the words "safe queen" LOL. My reason for not shooting each one I own is too many of them to do that and keep them straight. I bet Gunny has that problem with his Mosin collection too.

 

[Walkalong]

I agree with @FROGO207, shoot them.

 

[Walkalong]

Might find a nice Regulation Police in .32 Long out there.

Mine is no beauty, but very accurate. (Tiny Sights)

 

[Dudedog]

I can get Accurate #2 ok as well.

Might be worth picking up a lb to try.
In case you didn't see it in my other thread
Using #2 and my old Lee "deluxe turret" with the auto disk set to throw 2.3 I scaled every charge for all 98 and all were 2.3 except for 2 that read 2.4. (Frankford DS750 rounds to .1 so 2.34 would read 2.3. 2.36 would read 2.4)
Nice to be able to throw small charges accurately.
I scaled all those but afterwards I felt comfortable enough that the next batch I only scaled about every 15th one. (after setting the measure and checking to make sure it was right)

 

[tightgroup tiger]

I was wondering how hard it is to throw accurate charges in that low of a volume.
Walkalong, did you use your Hornady measure for your loads or weigh them all? How did it work in that weight range? I guess I will have to call Graff's and order a couple hundred empty cases for mine.
They are the only one's that carry them in less than 500 count.

 

[Walkalong]

I use a Redding 10X measure for pistol charges. AA #2, WST, N-310, Bullseye, all meter very well in that small range. I used to use an old Hornady bushing type measure I rigged to drop automatically on my Projector. Both worked just fine. Set them up so the largest charge they might throw is OK. I normally throw an "average", but sometimes in my log book (Excel file) I mark the charge weight as "Max - Not Average".

 

[boom boom]

Might be worth picking up a lb to try.
In case you didn't see it in my other thread
Using #2 and my old Lee "deluxe turret" with the auto disk set to throw 2.3 I scaled every charge for all 98 and all were 2.3 except for 2 that read 2.4. (Frankford DS750 rounds to .1 so 2.34 would read 2.3. 2.36 would read 2.4)
Nice to be able to throw small charges accurately.
I scaled all those but afterwards I felt comfortable enough that the next batch I only scaled about every 15th one. (after setting the measure and checking to make sure it was right)

I've intended to try Accurate #2 for a number of years but never actually got around to it and I have not reloaded in about three years primarily because I have not been to range more than about twice in the last three years. I've had pretty good luck with the autodisk too if I calculate the VMD first and avoid some powders like Unique in it.

 

[Walkalong]

AA # 2 throws very consistently through any type of measure. It's a fine ball powder.

 

[Dudedog]

Spreadsheet (no macros) to do VMD calcs
Western list AA#2 at .102 VMD but as I recall my batch was "fluffier" / less dense more around .11.
Will go measure check on of my latest jars when I have a chance.

Checked my current can with .30,.32,.34,.40,.46,.57 disks
Computed VMDs from charges thrown high was .11 (.30 disk) .1075 (.57 disk)
Average .1085 VMD