340PD problem

[6530]

I recently decided to try pocket carry with a DA revolver, so I picked up a great condition used 340PD and a pair of Crimson Trace Lasergrips. I bought the gun from a reputable local dealer that had a table at the gunshow. When I took the gun to the range for the first time, I shot Remington Golden Saber 125 grain in both .38+P and .357 Magnum. I plan on carrying the .357 Magnum load. The second trip to the range I shot Fiocchi 142 (or maybe 147) grain FMJ truncated cone loads. I don't handload for pistol so I haven't shot any handloads through this revolver.

Anyway, the problem that developed is this: once they're fired the .357 Mag brass are REALLY hard to get out of the cylinder. For some reason they're just stuck in there. No such problem with the .38 brass.

Any thoughts as to what could be causing this? I don't want to shoot it any more until I figure out what the problem is.

 

[Old Fuff]

When you shoot .38 Special cartridges in a .357 Magnum chamber (which is longer) you may get fouling in the front of the chamber. This is especially true if you use .38 Special ammunition loaded with lead bullets. Then when you fire high-pressure Magnum loads the brass expands into the fouled part of the chamber and sticks. This "sticking" is aggravated when you have to eject 5 or more cartridges at once. The cure is to be sure the chambers are kept absolutely clean.

However, I believe your revolver may have a Titanium cylinder, and if so read the manual because S&W has some special requirements concerning how you clean it.

While you may have not shot any lead-bulleted ammo through it, a former owner might have.

 

[Sir Aardvark]

I too have this problem with my 340PD.

It does not really happen with .38 SPECIALS, but does occur with .38 +P and .357 MAGNUMS.

I didn't give it too much thought, I just figured that the increased power from the hotter loads expanded the brass casings into the cylinder more forcefully than the .38 SPL did. This, in combination with the "stickier" titanium just meant that you had to put a bit more effort in popping out the spent brass.

By "sticky" titanium I mean that the inside bore of the cylinder is not polished like a steel one would be, and I think that the friction coefficient of titanium is a bit greater than that of polished steel, thus resulting in the issue you described.

And no....I'm not a metallurgist, nor do I play one on TV, so this is just my .02 worth.

 

[Master Blaster]

If you have been firing .38 spls in your snubby, you have a ring of crud in the cylinder where the case mouth of the .38 round starts. The .357 ammo is .125 inches longer than the .38 ammo so the case for the .357 mag is sticking as it expands onto the .38 spl crud ring. You might also notice its harder to push the .357 ammo all the way in as well.

you can use some fired .357 cases as scrapers to remove the crud. better would be if you used some mpro 7 / hoppes elite cleaner and a nylon or brass brush to remove the build up from the .38s.

 

[yellow329]

Problem with my new 340pd

I got my 340pd for 3weeks now, try the 357Ammo after 10 round,and when I try to pull, the trigger not working! I have to bring back to the dealer,let him sent it back to Smith@Wesson, I'm been thinking, if it happen to me again,I really can put my life in danger in the bad situation(knock the wood hope it never happen!) do you think I'm worry too much !! :banghead: :banghead:

 

[Old Fuff]

yellow329:

No, if the gun doesn't work you have every reason to be concerned. The question is, "WHY doesn't it work? You will have to wait and see what Smith & Wesson says. After they return it shoot it enough so that you're sure it will work.

That said, I don't believe the .357 Magnum cartridge belongs in so light a revolver. .38 Special +P? Maybe, but not the Magnum.

 

[yellow329]

Thanks ! Old Fuff

Thanks for your advice that really help me out, First round on magnum, one thing come to my mine is the Gun this light, the Ammo this powerful ! make me wonder it is save to shoot! I'll let you known in about a week ! after I got my Gun back, again thank you !!

 

[Old Fuff]

If the gun is fixed like it should be it will be safe enough to shoot, although I understand that S&W recommends they not be fed a stedy diet of Magnums. They don't blow up, but may be pounded into submission and develop ills like cylinder end-shake.

The other question of course is, "how much pounding can you take?"

 

[Sobell]

340 and Magnums

I've had my 340PD for more than a year now. I've fired many hundreds of rounds of factory 357 and many, many more rounds of factory .38+P and hand loaded lead rounds, both .38 and .357. No sticking of any kind. I keep it clean. I did have a minor problem after I first got it, and sent it back to have the cylinder and firing pin bushing replaced. No problems of any kind since it was returned from the factory more than a year ago.

I do find that some ammo has the 'bullet pull' issue more than others. Some .357 if definitely to be avoided...it just hurts too much. I like the WW .357 Silvertip, 158 gn. That is a load that can be handled without too much discomfort. Any of the .38+P is not problem. For concealability, I have kept the factory grips on.

Although I am a life-long 1911 shooter, I find for the quick trip to the store or around town, the 340PD gets more carry time than anything else due to its light weight. I look forward to trying some of the new Speer Gold Dots designed for the sub-2 inchers.

Mr. O

 

[yellow329]

Sobell

What Kind Of Ammos Do You Carry With You, Is It .38+p, Or .357.? what Do You Recommend ? After I Sent My 340pd Back To The Factory, I Have To Carry My 239sig, I Like The Gun But It's So Heavy, & So Uncomfortable ! I Can't Wait To Get Mine Back , Thanks For Your Imfo !

 

[6530]

Thanks for all the responses. I ended up scrubbing the cylinder with a bronze brush and MPro7 to remove what was probably leading, but wasn't sure I got everything out. I ended up sending the revolver back to the factory just in case - no sense taking any chances when S&W's warranty is what it is.

 

[yellow329]

Got My 340pd Back

AFTER 3 LONG WEEK I GOT MY 340PD BACK, S&W SAID THEY REPLACE HAND-SKIPS OF MY GUN, CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT THAT IS??
THANKS!!

 

[Old Fuff]

I don't understand what they were trying to say, but the "hand" is the part that rotates the cylinder, and I wonder if it was sticking,

 

[sm]

<raises hand>

Okay this is the part I usually suggest one take a fired .357 case, take a triangular needle file and cut "teeth" into the case mouth. Use this to remove that carbon ring that developes when shooting .38spl in a .357. [ Works for .when firing .44 spl in .44 mag as well]

umm...will this hurt a Ti gun using the "teeth" to cut the carbon fouling?

 

[yellow329]

Old Fuff

Thank for the reply ! I'm too busy right now, just don't have time to go to the range test it out yet. I guess I just stick whith 38, 38 special+p, for now. really good to have it back, so light and so easy to carry whith me around.

 

[TarpleyG]

However, I believe your revolver may have a Titanium cylinder, and if so read the manual because S&W has some special requirements concerning how you clean it.

Can anyone expound on this???

Never mind. I found it.

TITANIUM & SCANDIUM REVOLVERS
The titanium cylinder used in your AirLite Ti and AirLite Sc revolvers
weighs approximately 60% of what a similar stainless steel cylinder
weighs and yet is able to withstand the same operating pressures.
Care and cleaning of the revolver’s titanium cylinder consists of normal
gun cleaning procedures using high quality gun oil and cleaning
solvents when necessary. However, under NO circumstances should
the cylinder’s chambers (charge holes) or front face be cleaned with
an abrasive material such as sand paper, Scotch Briteâ„¢, Crocus
Cloth, etc. To do so will disrupt it’s protective surface layer and greatly
reduce the cylinder’s service life because of excessive erosion that will
take place while firing and will void your revolver’s warranty.

Greg

 

[double0757]

love 340pd

Had for 9 month and love it. I use a nylon brush to clean cylinders on the drum. Then I leave a lightly oil film in it. I fire both .357 and .38 +p and don't have problem. Shoot about 50 to 75 rounds a month on it. hope it give you enjoyment (at least to carry because it is not so much fun to shoot).

Double O

 

[6530]

Got my 340 back from S&W in about a week with a new cylinder. Now it shoots great and I don't have any problems removing the .357 brass. I wonder how badly out of spec the old cylinder was...

 

[BluesBear]

It's stories like this that make me really appreciate my all steel revolvers.

 

[JNewell]

That, and S&W's really excellent customer service, which is the best in the industry right now.

Has anyone noticed that you seldom, if ever, read about problems with the Ti cylinders and lower-pressure cartridges...but reports of issues with the .357 and .44 Magnums are not uncommon...?

 

[Old Fuff]

Yes, the Old Fuff at least has noticed. I wouldn't recommend a revolver with a Titanium cylinder chambered in any Magnum cartridge except the various rimfires and the .32 H&R Magnum. I might be interested in a Titanium frame/steel cylinder combination, but I don't believe anyone makes this option.

Like Blues Bear, I prefer the steel guns or sometimes the aluminum/steel revolvers. The heavier weight may be less attractive to carry around, but it will make a big difference if one has to use the gun.

 

[JNewell]

Yes to all -- but the .38 Special Ti/Al J frames have been notably trouble-free, and they've been out since...1999, I think? Long enough for problems to manifest themselves if they were going to. Didn't take very long with the 329, certainly!