New to the forum and reloading. Loaded up some 357 mag 5.0 5.5 & 6.0 loads with w231 and Berry's 158gn plated hollow points. All 24 shots produced a lot of flash from the front of the cylinder. Is this typical of the 231 powder? Could it be a crimping issue? Was going to switch to w296 but I can't push these bullets over 1200fps
357 Mag flash
- Thread starter Feezer
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yep.
And whatever the problem is, switching to W-296 sure isn't going to help it!!
Here is an old thread about low flash powders.
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-361606.html
rc
And whatever the problem is, switching to W-296 sure isn't going to help it!!
Here is an old thread about low flash powders.
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-361606.html
rc
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Massive charges of slower burning ball powder will result in top strap "cutting".
But IMO, it is more a result of unburned ball powder bead blasting a groove in the top strap then anything to do with the flash melting solid steel in a milli-second.
Also IMO: By the same reasoning, flake type powders like Unique & 2400 are kinder to top straps then ball powder like H-110 & W-296.
rc
But IMO, it is more a result of unburned ball powder bead blasting a groove in the top strap then anything to do with the flash melting solid steel in a milli-second.
Also IMO: By the same reasoning, flake type powders like Unique & 2400 are kinder to top straps then ball powder like H-110 & W-296.
rc
You should be getting some decent velocities out of that six inch barrel. The longest 357 I have is a four inch. Chronos about 1250 with H110 (same powder as 296). Are you shooting at night or in a dark indoor range? 357 is usually not that bad. I'm not familiar with 231, but any of the faster burning pistol powders should be fairly low flash and keep the velocity below 1200 fps.
gamestalker
member
If you think 231 is flashy, you deffinitely won't like 296! 296 looks like the sun just came up if shooting it in the dark.
GS
GS
tightgroup tiger
Member
You think 231 is flashy try a stout load of Power Pistol. You'll actually lose sight of your target for a moment in broad daylight.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
You can't judge your results by what the manuals tell you. Most data is compiled using a fairly long pressure barrel so there's really no way you will match the velocities listed in manuals.
If you're looking for more velocity without pushing the pressures too much while remaining below 1200 fps give HS-6 a try. I mostly use W231, HS-6 and W296 for all my handgun reloading. HS-6 will give you what you're looking for and it's a little less flashy than W231. (although some will argue that point)
4895
Member
Make sure your revolver is unloaded.
With the action closed, point it in a safe direction.
Pull back the hammer.
Place a pencil between the hammer and the frame of the revolver.
Pull the trigger, letting the hammer fall on the pencil (not the firing pin), but do not release tension on the trigger. Keep your finger on the trigger pulled back in full firing position.
Grasp the cylinder in your other hand and try to move it back and forth to check the endplay between the cylinder and the barrel. If you have a feeler gauge you can check the gap between the two more precisely.
If it is out of spec, a gunsmith may be able to shim the gap and reduce powder flash from the cylinder.
Don't know of any purported low-flash powder offhand but I am happy with W-231 for "lower" flash ammo. I don't have any problems with its burn characteristic.
With the action closed, point it in a safe direction.
Pull back the hammer.
Place a pencil between the hammer and the frame of the revolver.
Pull the trigger, letting the hammer fall on the pencil (not the firing pin), but do not release tension on the trigger. Keep your finger on the trigger pulled back in full firing position.
Grasp the cylinder in your other hand and try to move it back and forth to check the endplay between the cylinder and the barrel. If you have a feeler gauge you can check the gap between the two more precisely.
If it is out of spec, a gunsmith may be able to shim the gap and reduce powder flash from the cylinder.
Don't know of any purported low-flash powder offhand but I am happy with W-231 for "lower" flash ammo. I don't have any problems with its burn characteristic.
nitesite
Member
That is an incredible statement. As in, it is not credible.
ConcernedCitizen
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It might be a bit of an exaggeration, but it's not far from the truth.
I have a 9mm load that I've worked up that almost perfectly duplicates factory 115 grain ammunition, with the exception of the report and muzzle flash.
I was shooting with some friends, and one of them commented that my load appeared "a bit hot", which I knew was not the case. I let him shoot some so I could observe, and sure enough, there was a visible muzzle flash, even in daylight (though it was an overcast winter day). I'd say the muzzle flash is more of a bright white, rather than the usual yellow/red flash. With the higher loads, it is visible enough to be distracting.
Back to the original topic, I've noticed a good sized muzzle flash using H110, but 2400 seems to be less flash, more smoke. 2400 would also let you download to the 1200 fps range, so it might be worth a shot.
tightgroup tiger
Member
I don't think it is a exaggeration at all being I've been using 2400 and H110 for over 30 years and yes, power pistol is a different flash, bright flash, but to me it is far more distracting at an indoor range to me, than a hot load of 2400. The fire ball from 2400 does last longer, but I don't think it is as brite as power pistol's flash.
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