375 H&H owners.... Guidence needed.

[BigBore44]

So there was an auction today and on the list published before the auction was a Rem 700 in 375 H&H. My dad asked about what rifles he should be looking at. I mentioned that 375. So he goes to the auction and wins the bid. $800. Turns out it’s a Rem 700 Safari made in June of 1991. Gun is 99-100% with the tag still on it. Needless to say he got a great deal.

Now to the guidence part. I’ll just ask numbered, questions to hopefully make answering them easier. For those that don’t already know, I’m a hand loader. And I know all guns are different and have different tastes. So......

1. Wanting to keep bullet weights <=250gr. What is your opinion of the 250gr Sierra Gameking for terminal performance on medium skinned game (feral hogs up to 350-400lbs)? Shots from 50-250 yards. They seem like a good value and I already shoot Sierras in other calibers and have been pleased. If you don’t like them, (that’s fine) what’s another choice that doesn’t rhyme with “Swift A-Frame”?

2. What’s your go to powder for medium to upper loads with ~250gr bullets? Of the powders I have on hand that should work for the 375... I have H-4350, H-4895, 4064, and Varget. Varget offers the best velocity per gr of powder. 4350 offers the highest velocity with lowest pressure. But it’s max load is compressed at 83gr!! Or, suggest another powder that isn’t VN. (Your experience with your rifle)

3. Neck dies or FL dies? Both? I’ve read that you only get 3-4 loads out of brass if you FL (Chuck Hawks and others)

4. What brass would you recommend? I’d really like to not spend a ton of money on brass (should have bid on a different rifle then right?). But if it matters as far as longevity, I’ll bite the bullet.

5. What’s you’re favorite load for hunting “non-Big 5”, non-dangerous game (no matter the components)?

6. What are some tips for this cartridge and loading for it?

7. What type of rings do you have on your rifles? This gun will wear glass. Probably something in the 3x9 or 4x12 range as dad’s eyes aren’t that great anymore.

**I will take all loads into consideration but will verify through manuals, powder manufactures websites, or stevespages (I would include OleJoeClark on the list to verify with but I’ve heard stories and that guy might have a hint of crazy in his blood).

Thank you ahead of time for any help. It is appreciated.

 

[BigBore44]

Almost forgot. Pics or it didn’t happen right?

 

[MEHavey]

3. Neck dies or FL dies? Both? I’ve read that you only get 3-4 loads out of brass if you FL (Chuck Hawks and others)

4. What brass would you recommend? I’d really like to not spend a ton of money on brass (should have bid on a different rifle then right?). But if it matters as far as longevity, I’ll bite the bullet.

Full Length die (since neck sizing still requires FL every so often anyway. Shoot less-than-max loads; size to headspace on the shoulder rather than the belt; and your brass will live a normal life.

Winchester brass will do just fine. Lapua if you want range bragging rights.

 

[MCMXI]

Congrats to you and your dad on the rifle and welcome to the .375 H&H crowd.

Here are my responses to your questions.

1. I've never tried the SGK. I use a 250gr Barnes TTSX with great results. This year I'm going to work up a load using the 260gr Nosler AccuBond since it will increase the effective range of the rifle/load offering better expansion down to 1,800 fps.

2. Sorry but I only use VV N540 ... about 72gr for 2,800 fps with the 250gr TTSX. I have a lot of Varget on hand which is a good powder for sure for the .375 H&H but I've never tried it.

3. I use Redding dies to neck size brass after every firing and will bump the shoulder back about .002" when needed and anneal the case mouth. I'm on 7 firings with Remington brass (200 cases) without any issues. I use a LEE FCD to crimp the case mouth.

4. I use Remington brass without any issues at all printing 5-shot groups at 100 yards that are under .7 moa and 3-shot groups at 400 yards under .6 moa. Remington makes decent brass so I see no reason to change. That said, I might get some Nosler brass for the AccuBond load development just to keep the brass separate from the Barnes load.

5. 250gr Barnes TTSX, VV N540 powder, GM215M primers, Remington brass ... it will kill anything with no unnecessary meat damage.

6. Neck size only, bump the shoulder back as needed, anneal case mouths as needed, use good components, add a crimp to the neck.

7. I use a Zeiss Conquest MC 3-9x40mm with the RZ600 reticle sitting in Talley stainless steel QD rings. I had the rear ring "coned" to match the occular bell housing on the scope so that the scope can't slide forward ... works like a champ!

 

[Dr T]

Good question, and I have been wondering about this.

In particular, has anyone had any experience with the Speer 235 gr semi-spitzer. I remember hearing once-upon-a-time that this was developed for elk hunting with the 375 H&H for those that wanted a bit less recoil.

https://www.speer-ammo.com/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullets/375/375-235-hcsp-bullet

 

[BigBore44]

Congrats to you and your dad on the rifle and welcome to the .375 H&H crowd.

Here are my responses to your questions.

1. I've never tried the SGK. I use a 250gr Barnes TTSX with great results. This year I'm going to work up a load using the 260gr Nosler AccuBond since it will increase the effective range of the rifle/load offering better expansion down to 1,800 fps.

2. Sorry but I only use VV N540 ... about 72gr for 2,800 fps with the 250gr TTSX. I have a lot of Varget on hand which is a good powder for sure for the .375 H&H but I've never tried it.

3. I use Redding dies to neck size brass after every firing and will bump the shoulder back about .002" when needed and anneal the case mouth. I'm on 7 firings with Remington brass (200 cases) without any issues. I use a LEE FCD to crimp the case mouth.

4. I use Remington brass without any issues at all printing 5-shot groups at 100 yards that are under .7 moa and 3-shot groups at 400 yards under .6 moa. Remington makes decent brass so I see no reason to change. That said, I might get some Nosler brass for the AccuBond load development just to keep the brass separate from the Barnes load.

5. 250gr Barnes TTSX, VV N540 powder, GM215M primers, Remington brass ... it will kill anything with no unnecessary meat damage.

6. Neck size only, bump the shoulder back as needed, anneal case mouths as needed, use good components, add a crimp to the neck.

7. I use a Zeiss Conquest MC 3-9x40mm with the RZ600 reticle sitting in Talley stainless steel QD rings. I had the rear ring "coned" to match the occular bell housing on the scope so that the scope can't slide forward ... works like a champ!

View attachment 777728

View attachment 777729

Thank you for your input MCMXI. Very much appreciated.

 

[Robert]

I shoot 270 gr Barnes TSX over 4895 with great success. I have a mix of Federal and Winchester brass that seems to be working great. I use RCBS FL dies. I have Leupold bases with Burris Z Rings. My scope is a Leupold VX3 2.5-8x36 that works like a charm.

 

[BigBore44]

I shoot 270 gr Barnes TSX over 4895 with great success. I have a mix of Federal and Winchester brass that seems to be working great. I use RCBS FL dies. I have Leupold bases with Burris Z Rings. My scope is a Leupold VX3 2.5-8x36 that works like a charm.

Thanks for the input so far. I’m definitely going to give 4895 a try. I have plenty. Is there a trick to getting the monolithic bullets to shoot accurately? I have tried them in 243, 2 different 308’s, 3 different 30-06’s and a 7mag. From medium to hot loads. And with different powders. And I couldn’t get any of them to shoot worth a darn. I mean 3-4 ” groups at 100 yards. That’s just unacceptable in my world.

The only problem I ever had with cup and core bullets was Hornady XTP in 44 and 444. Those groups were 5-6 at 100. Switched to Sierras and both rifles shrank their groups to 1.5 in the 44mag and .8 in the 444. I’ve tried to like monolithic bullets. But cup and core is where I have to put my faith. So I ordered some 250gr Sierras tonight to try.

With this being the longer magnum action of the 375, do I need to get “special” bases?

 

[Robert]

Dunno, mine just shoots them well but I have a Winchester. No special bases needed, but the width of the action will limit the amount of fore and aft adjustment.

 

[BigBore44]

Well I’ve got a set of DNZ rings ordered. And I had a Leupold VX-II laying around. It’s a little overkill (6x18) but he can always shoot it on lower power. Dies, bullets also headed my way. Now I just need to find a decent deal on brass.

 

[BigBore44]

Full Length die (since neck sizing still requires FL every so often anyway. Shoot less-than-max loads; size to headspace on the shoulder rather than the belt; and your brass will live a normal life.

Winchester brass will do just fine. Lapua if you want range bragging rights.

This is my first belted magnum. How do you headspace on the shoulder instead of the belt?

 

[Grumulkin]

So there was an auction today and on the list published before the auction was a Rem 700 in 375 H&H. My dad asked about what rifles he should be looking at. I mentioned that 375. So he goes to the auction and wins the bid. $800. Turns out it’s a Rem 700 Safari made in June of 1991. Gun is 99-100% with the tag still on it. Needless to say he got a great deal.

Now to the guidence part. I’ll just ask numbered, questions to hopefully make answering them easier. For those that don’t already know, I’m a hand loader. And I know all guns are different and have different tastes. So......

1. Wanting to keep bullet weights <=250gr. What is your opinion of the 250gr Sierra Gameking for terminal performance on medium skinned game (feral hogs up to 350-400lbs)? Shots from 50-250 yards. They seem like a good value and I already shoot Sierras in other calibers and have been pleased. If you don’t like them, (that’s fine) what’s another choice that doesn’t rhyme with “Swift A-Frame”?

2. What’s your go to powder for medium to upper loads with ~250gr bullets? Of the powders I have on hand that should work for the 375... I have H-4350, H-4895, 4064, and Varget. Varget offers the best velocity per gr of powder. 4350 offers the highest velocity with lowest pressure. But it’s max load is compressed at 83gr!! Or, suggest another powder that isn’t VN. (Your experience with your rifle)

3. Neck dies or FL dies? Both? I’ve read that you only get 3-4 loads out of brass if you FL (Chuck Hawks and others)

4. What brass would you recommend? I’d really like to not spend a ton of money on brass (should have bid on a different rifle then right?). But if it matters as far as longevity, I’ll bite the bullet.

5. What’s you’re favorite load for hunting “non-Big 5”, non-dangerous game (no matter the components)?

6. What are some tips for this cartridge and loading for it?

7. What type of rings do you have on your rifles? This gun will wear glass. Probably something in the 3x9 or 4x12 range as dad’s eyes aren’t that great anymore.

**I will take all loads into consideration but will verify through manuals, powder manufactures websites, or stevespages (I would include OleJoeClark on the list to verify with but I’ve heard stories and that guy might have a hint of crazy in his blood).

Thank you ahead of time for any help. It is appreciated.

1. I've only used 270 and 300 grain bullets in mine. On an Africa trip, I used 270 grain cup and core bullets (I think Speer) and I got one shot kills on all; even Zebra and Blue Wildeveest. Your 250 grain bullets should do fine on pigs.

2. I've always used RL-15 in my 375 H&H Magnums.



3. I've pretty much given up neck sizing. If you use Federal brass, you will likely get ONE reload before you get an incipient head separation. Be sure to check each time you reload the brass. If you want a little better case life, I'd recommend Nosler or Lapua brass though Remington or Winchester will also do better than Federal. In my opinion, trying to headspace on the so called "neck" on the long tapered 375 H&H Magnum case is an exercise in futility. I always headspace on the belt.

4. Most of my scopes are Leupold and a lot were bought on eBay. Even the cheap ones have done fine on rifles such as 458 Lott, 460 Weatherby Magnum and 378 Weatherby Magnum. I've broken Leupold scopes on heavy recoiling handguns but never on a rifle and they were repaired promptly free of charge by Leupold; even the ones I bought used.

 

[MCMXI]

This is my first belted magnum. How do you headspace on the shoulder instead of the belt?

Belted cases start life with the shoulder set way back (.010" to. 015" typically) so it will take a few firings before you need to address it. As I mentioned earlier, I never full length size the brass. My cases are formed to the chamber and I want the shoulder a couple of thousandths off the datum in the chamber for ease of feeding, minimal case expansion and good case life. If you neck size only and bump the shoulder back when needed you'll have great results and good case life.

 

[BigBore44]

1. I've only used 270 and 300 grain bullets in mine. On an Africa trip, I used 270 grain cup and core bullets (I think Speer) and I got one shot kills on all; even Zebra and Blue Wildeveest. Your 250 grain bullets should do fine on pigs.

2. I've always used RL-15 in my 375 H&H Magnums.

View attachment 777882

3. I've pretty much given up neck sizing. If you use Federal brass, you will likely get ONE reload before you get an incipient head separation. Be sure to check each time you reload the brass. If you want a little better case life, I'd recommend Nosler or Lapua brass though Remington or Winchester will also do better than Federal. In my opinion, trying to headspace on the so called "neck" on the long tapered 375 H&H Magnum case is an exercise in futility. I always headspace on the belt.

4. Most of my scopes are Leupold and a lot were bought on eBay. Even the cheap ones have done fine on rifles such as 458 Lott, 460 Weatherby Magnum and 378 Weatherby Magnum. I've broken Leupold scopes on heavy recoiling handguns but never on a rifle and they were repaired promptly free of charge by Leupold; even the ones I bought used.

I’ve been doing a LOT of reading about this cartridge. And one thing I’m seeing is case head separations. Some guys are claiming 4-5 reloads until failure. Some are claiming 1. That’s some expensive reloading. Brass is $1.40-$3.00 each.

This rifle will most likely never see full charges of any powder. Ok it might once or twice just to see. But would keeping the loads in the middle spectrum annealing the brass help? Seems like really short brass life.

 

[MEHavey]

How do you headspace on the shoulder instead of the belt?
....one thing I’m seeing is case head separations.

You're seeing head separations because people are setting the Sizing die to MAX FULL LENGTH -- to where the only thing that stops the case when chambering (if it stops it all all) is the Belt. At that point the case is shorter than the chamber; over-stretches w/ every shot; then the shooter (over) sizes it all over again; it stretches again; he sizes it again... and pretty soon the head breaks off

Since brass is expensive, get one of these and save the brass:

1. Hornady Headspace gauge comparator set.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/4...headspace-gauge-5-bushing-set-with-comparator

2. Using a cartridge case that you graaaaaadually size, determine where the bolt juuuuust closes minimum feel – butting the case shoulder up against the chamber shoulder

3. Use the Hornady comparator, measure and record that case's headspace dimension.

4. Adjust the sizing die in another 0.002" (by the headspace gauge) and lock it down.

You now have an accurate record of where you want to size cases to -- using the shoulder and not the belt -- regardless of brand or brass condition. Start every loading session by checking that dimension as they come out of the die, and adjust the die if required to achieve it.

 

[GooseGestapo]

I've used the 250gr Sierra in my.375 Ruger. It's excellent. Very accurate.
My best loads are with IMR and H4350. However, most of my hunting/shooting has been with RL15. It's just a bit more economical.
H4895 will be good for reduced loadings.

After initial firing, only size enough for sized cases to easily chamber. Screwing the sizer die down to touch the shell holder will over size them leading to premature case failure (head separation).

I've also sho deer with the 235gr Speer. It's my go-to bullet for every day use in the S.E. USA. Before it was discontinued, I preferred the Hornady 225gr SpSpt, but it's gone. It was like a .30/06 with a 150gr bullet on "steroids". The 250's with same powder charge as a 270gr bullet shoots to same poi/POA. Likewise the 300's tend to shoot to same POA as 270's. The difference with my gun at 200yds is about 2" vertical spread between 4-different bullet weights.
My rifle is an early Ruger M77MkII Hawkeyes wood/23"bbl before they started calling it the "African". After I aquired it circa 2011, I scrounged the country side and found a good quantity of close out and salvage priced bullets. Including 200 250gr Sierra's in a plastic bag for $25. Add in 400rds of 270gr Hornady RN (pre-interlock) for $12/100. I'm set for life...

 

[Alaskan Ironworker]

Love the .375. I have a mdl. 70 alaskan.
I load a 300 grain nosler partition behind 76 grains of “accurate” brand 4350. I use a lee factory crimp die. Its not a hot load, or a weak load, right where it should be. If you can see the pic, I dug that partition out of about a 1200 lb bear. Perfect mushroom, stopped right under the skin on the opposite side. I do full length reload, and im by no means a master, but i have loaded the same 80 cases 3 times now, and havent had brass issues. They are R+p cases from factory loaded prograde ammo, is pro grade still around? Anyone? I remember paying $40 for a box of .375 h&h thinking, “this is suspiciously cheap”. Fine ammo as far as i can tell...

 

[MEHavey]

but i have loaded the same 80 cases 3 times now, and havent had brass issues

Third time's the charm.
It's number 5 generally bites you.

I'd start running regular paper-clip tests from this point forward.

 

[MCMXI]

i have loaded the same 80 cases 3 times now, and havent had brass issues. They are R+p cases from factory loaded prograde ammo,

That's the same brass I use. I'm working my way through the seventh loading of a batch of 200 cases I got when I worked at Remington. I shoot a 250gr bullet at 2,800 fps from a 22" barrel very near max pressure so that should give some idea as to what I'm doing. I've never shot light loads in my .375 H&H, have only neck sized and bumped the shoulder with Redding dies (neck sized only for the first and second loadings), have never FL sized, do anneal case mouths, only use VV N540 and shoot a rifle that has a tight chamber compared to SAAMI specs. There are a lot of variables here to consider, some of which the handloader has control over and some of which he/she doesn't such as the quality of the chamber e.g. concentricity, headspace etc. I'm looking forward to getting 10 loadings out of my Remington brass.

For the record, if the belt and neighboring brass isn't touched during sizing, the shoulder doesn't move forward more than .002" during firing, and the case is mostly formed to the chamber after the first two firings, where the heck do you think the brass is flowing such that case head separation is a certainty?