.38 loads in .357 brass

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Ranger J

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More or less as an intellectual exercise as my seemingly endless supply of .38 brass makes me not too likely to do this. If I were to load .357 brass to .38 levels, do I use data from the .38 section of a reloading manual or look for the lowest possible load in the .357 section? Would say using my usual .38 Red Dot load cause problems in the .357 case?:scrutiny:
RJ
 
I use 357 data for 357 brass, lite, med. or heavy.

For your question: If the Red Dot load is mid to upper level it'll probably be ok.
 
play safe

and go with 'the book.'. very little diff. between the loads shown for a high end .38 and a low end maggy load.If it's mild you're looking for,use lead bullets in the .357 and use 'cowboy load' specs.
shoot like a .22,and cheaper too.
 
The .357 magnum case is a tiny bit longer, which will lower pressures a tiny bit, if you seat to the cannelure. Probably not enough to stick a bullet. If you really wanted to be sure, you could try seating the bullets to the OAL listed for the .38 loads. That way the space inside is the same no matter which brass you use. Wouldn't be good for fast reloads though.
 
I've faced the same situation. What I do is use the mildest load listed in a manual for 357. If memory serves, Hornady and/or Speer lists a load for about 800 or 900 FPS for 357 with 158 SWC lead bullets.
 
I've done this with lots of different loads and bullets. To approximately reproduce a .38 load in a .357 case, use the same primer, seat the bullet to the cannelure, and increase the powder charge by 10% to adjust for the extra case capacity. A 3 gr. charge becomes a 3.3 gr. charge, a 7 grain charge a 7.7, etc., etc.

It's not a problem and lots of folks have done it for a long time.
 
.38 load in a .357 case

I'd have to go along with SASS#23149 on this one. Go by the books- minimum loads are there for good reasons just as are max. loads. These loads have been tested and there is very little difference but if using min. loads be especially cautious and watchful for squibs. As with any shooting session if anything doesn't feel right or look right check it out thouroughly before you proceed. Speer #12 shows starting Red Dot wts. for 148 gr.HBWC @2.7 gr for .38 spl. and 3.0 gr. for .357 Mag. with 750 fps in both with a 6" barrel S&W . 3/10 gr. just might make all the difference in your day.
 
Speer #12 shows starting Red Dot wts. for 148 gr.HBWC @2.7 gr for .38 spl. and 3.0 gr. for .357 Mag. with 750 fps in both with a 6" barrel S&W

Exactly. Add 10% for an equivalent load.

Honestly, look at the cases, there's not that big a difference; there's no need to get fretsome about it. Even if you didn't add to a .38 charge, people reload well below published minimums all the time; look up some real-life cowboy action loads if you need to be reassured. High-volume competition cowboys & girls load and shoot thousands of loads WAY below published min.s.

I feel like questions of this type tend to get answered with some kind of hyper-motherly concern when it's just not warranted. You've decided to be a reloader; use a good measure of caution, but also give room for your common sense to operate.
 
If I recall correctly

the current Hornady manual says that for lead bullet .357 target loads, use the .38 data. So I did, loading HBWC loads. I did it because .38 cases laeve leading ahead of the case mouth, and can make it hard to chamber .357 cases. Works fine.
 
I've loaded 38 or 38+P loads in .357 cases for years. Primarily because I don't want to clean that ring out of the cylinders. That said, I personally belive that 38 Special loads of 38 Special cases are more accurate, but loading it in .357 cases does a great job and eliminates the housekeeping of shooting the 38s in .357s.
 
There is no data for my next load. Speer 148 grain HBWC (swaged) in .357 brass using Hodgdon Clays.
I know Clays isn't as popular or as old as Bullseye or Unique, so there isn't as much data. But I'm limiting myself to three powders right now for .357 and .22 Hornet. Clays, Titegroup and L'ilgun.
With fast flake powders like Clays or Unique, I feel safe using a starting load for .38 spl. + 10% in magnum brass AS LONG AS THE TOTAL IS WELL UNDER THE LISTED MAX. FOR .38spl.
Swapping data with magnum ball powder (H110, 2400 etc...) is a definate no no.
If anyone has experience with Clays in .357, I'd love to hear about it. My first try with 158 SWC's was a big sucsess. Trying the Speer HBWC's for the ultimate, cheap paper puncher.
 
If anyone has experience with Clays in .357, I'd love to hear about it. My first try with 158 SWC's was a big success. Trying the Speer HBWC's for the ultimate, cheap paper puncher

I've had great success with cast SWC (158gn ) with 4.2 gns of CLAYS out of both a 686 with a 6inch barrel & a Ruger black hawk with same

also I,ve played round with between 4.3 to 5gns of Clays pushing a 240gn Kieth type in my .44 mag's for CAS shooting.

On the subject of the 38 loads in a 357 case I have done this for years & have done the same with .44 spl loads in a .44 mag case! I do tend to crimp a little heavier to bring the pressure up slightly .

Dave
 
Most of the discussion so far has involved using cast bullets. While I shoot these in .44 mag I only shoot 158g JSP in .38 & 357 (can get them cheap). With Red Dot I believe I use 3.8g for the .38 and while not using it, I believe the lightest I have seen for .357 for Red Dot was 5.5g. The concept of adding 10% of the 38 load to make an equivalent load for a 357 case was interesting. Does this same % increase work for jacketed bullets? Also in there some equivalent formula for adjusting loads given for cast bullets to jacketed ones?
RJ
 
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