38 S&W special CTG U.S. Navy revolver

[mleonard68]

I have a 38 special that I would like to better identify.

38 S.&W. special CTG on the right side of the barrel
U.S. Navy on the top of the frame
Made in the U.S.A. on the right side of the frame
V174696 on the butt

Can anyone tell me about this handgun/

Thanks!

 

[mm1ut1]

It's a S&W M&P made for the USN during ww2 and are referred to as "Victorys". They are relatively scarce and have a high collector value. Basement price is around $500.00 for one in good shape. They were mainly issued to navy and USMC pilots and were used up to and after the Viet Nam war.

 

[mleonard68]

Thank You

Thanks for your help.

 

[Radagast]

The Victory Model was a war finish .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change. Yours probably dates to 1942.
It uses S&Ws old 'long action', which is noted for having a smoother, more consistent double action pull compared to the current 'short action'.
Your gun lacks the modern internal hammer block safety unless there is a small 's' stamp on the hump of the frame behind the hammer on the left side. A fatality when a dropped gun fired on a warship in 1944 resulted in the development of the modern positive hammer block safety, guns that were retrofitted have the 's' stamp. If not then leave the chamber under the hammer empty.
Most military guns had a parkerised or grey phosphate type finish, if the gun has been reblued it will probably have no interest to a collector. The original grips would probably have been smooth walnut and the guns serial number may be on the inside of the left grip panel if they are original.
In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $425 for a very good condition Victory Model, $600 in excellent condition, with a 50% to 100% premium on top of that if marked US Navy on the top strap. Of course, finding someone willing to pay that premium is the hard part.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

The important information is, DO NOT SAND, BUFF HEAVILY OR TRY TO CLEAN THE FINISH OF THAT REVOLVER! Far too many guns are ruined by someone trying to "make them look better." It happens to old coins too. They mean well but end up destroying any collector's interest or value.

I'm not telling you not to use normal cleaning solution like Hoppe's No. 9 to clean up after you fire it or something like Rem Oil to protect the metal, I mean don't use harsh cleaners on the finish or grips.

Now, how about a photo of your revolver???