38 S&W SPL CTG - trying to identify

[scoyote]

Hi, found this forum online and read through all the posts concerning the pistols that I'm trying to identify and didn't find exactly what I was looking for so I'm posting asking for help.

I have two 38 S&W SPL CTG pistols.

One with a 1-1/4" barrel
SN# C42557
There is no model number under the cylinder on the frame.
There is this number: 77943
There also appears to be a #1 just above that number.

There aren't any other distinguishable numbers or marks except the S&W logo on the side of the gun and Markas Registradas.
Any idea of age/model on this pistol?

The other one with a 3" barrel
SN# S863891
There is no model number under the cylinder on the frame.
There is this number: 35542
There also appears to be a #2 just above that number.
On the top of the barrel there is a patent:
Feb 6 06 Sept 14 09 Dec 29 14

Again, any help identifying either of these pistols would be appreciated.

My Dad owned both these pistols and when he passed away I found them among his belongings so I don't have any history on them.

Thanks in advance
Scott

 

[Will5A1]

Welcome to the forum, and your father had good taste in revolvers. Reading what you've posted I'd say both are post war .38 Military & Police, aka "pre-model 10's", the S serial number prefix was used up until 1948 or so and then the series started again with the C prefix. FWIW I have SN S866065, it shipped on January 31, 1947. Your S numbered gun probably shipped around that time also. If you desire you can get "factory letters" from S&W that will tell you some basic info about the model, and when your revolvers shipped and where to, its only $30 a letter. Write S&W, Attn: Roy Jinks, 2100 Roosevelt Avenue, Springfield, MA 01102-2208, and describe the revolvers as you have you in your post.

 

[Starter52]

Also, FYI, in the USA we measure a revolver barrel from just in front of the cylinder (inside the frame) including the part called the forcing cone. Likely your first gun is a 2".

+1 to your father's good taste in revolvers.

 

[scoyote]

Many thanks for the information, now I can try to look them up and see what the value is for each of them.

And....one would be a 2" barrel and the other would be a 4" barrel.

I was off base, I guessed the S model was newer than the C model due to the higher serial number.

They look pretty much the same with the exception of the hammer, it is noticeably different.

Scott

 

[Ron James]

Also for your information, You have two Smith and Wessons revolvers in .38 Special. 38S&WSplCTG means .38 Smith and Wesson Cartridge. It's not a model name.

 

[scoyote]

Checking the 28th Edition Blue Book of Gun Values by S.P. Fjestad I'm struggling to find these models.

The closest thing that I find that is "Pre Model 10" with a 2" barrel is the 38 Military & Police Model of 1905 - 4th Change.

After that I see the .38 Regulation Police but it's only a 38 S&W caliber.
Next is the Victory model
Then the US Air Force Lightweight
Then the Model 10.

That being all the options....both of mine are the Model 1905 - 4th Change???

I show those as manufactured 1915-1942...definitely "Pre War".

Unless this book has left out some models???


Scott

 

[Will5A1]

Both your revolvers are post war (WWII) .38 Military and Police, a.k.a. as pre-model 10, guns - the values depend upon the demand and area you live in and the revolvers condition, the pressence of the original boxes and paperwork, and it the cleaning tools are still present. They could go for as low as $150 for a functional gun with very poor finish, perhaps $500 or higher for mint (new) in box.



I paid $350 for the above S numbered gun last year - note the two type boxes, the red two piece one with blue label was used in limited amounts after the war, the gold one with blue lettering is more common, both will add value if you have them.



The above C numbered snub nose cost me $250 off a forum member last fall, excuse the ugly black grips, they are comfortable for shooting but don't do the gun justice.

FWIW post war revolvers are usually not refered/called Model of 1905, 4th Change Military & Police, but usually as ".38 Military & Police" or "Pre-Model 10", the Blue Book, which I don't have handy right now, I thought just mentioned a slight value increase for "pre-model" guns.

I would hope you'd consider keeping them as family heirlooms, but if you are going to sell them please give the forum members a chance and list them in the classified section.

 

[scoyote]

Thanks again Will,
I have no intention of selling them since they were my fathers guns, I was just curious as to the value.....because I was curious ;-)

Yours appear to be in much better shape, mine have some surface rust and holster wear on them and no boxes.

I don't know if it's a good thing to have the re-blued or should I just leave them "as is"?

I probably won't even shoot them, just keep them in the gun safe.

I have other newer pistols for shooting.

Scott

 

[Will5A1]

I'd stop whatever active rust there is and preserve both guns as they are, but that's just my opinion - I like guns with character, and family guns were most often used and are seldom found in mint condition. Run some rounds thru them now and then, they can take it, and I bet they will be great fun to shoot.

 

[scoyote]

What is the recommended method to stop "active rust"?

 

[Will5A1]

Saturate/soak well with CLP/Breakfree, then use a brass brush to remove the rust scale if there is any that won't wipe off a rag.

 

[scoyote]

Thanks, I'll pick some up today.