38 special dies

[Katitmail]

Getting ready to reload this round. I need dies to work on 38spl and 357 magnum.

I'm using 650XL progressive press for loading.

Questions is what will work best?

For example, I load 9mm with Dillon dies and it works great, larger throat, can go fast with progressive.

I load 9mm MAK with LEE 3-die set. I don't really like those. Specifically I don't like part that there is no separate crimp dies. I can't go as fast on those, but there is no sticking, works OK

I load 45ACP with LEE 4-die set. Makes great ammo but I like to use lube on those, otherwise I get "jerking". Resizing great, seating great. Last crimping die has this sizing ring to make sure round is properly sized. It works, but on extraction it makes this "jerk". Lubing helps but still.

So, back to 38 special. Is it OK to target both 38 special and 357 with the same die set? Is there specific set that works best?

I see LEE sells 4 die set same as I use for 45ACP but I wonder if it's going to be the same experience(sticking) ? Or should I get Dillon set more suitable for progressive?

I don't really like idea of seating and crimping in one step but maybe for 38spl it's OK?

 

[DCT]

I always crimp on a separate die, weather it is a roll crimp or a taper crimp.
I have some of the lee 4 die sets that I use on my 550 Dillon and they have worked well for me.

 

[cfullgraf]

The same die set can be used for loading 38 Special and 357 Magnum. When you switch cartridges, you will need to re-adjust the expander and seater dies. RCBS and maybe Redding dies come with a spacer to "auto" adjust the dies between the two cartridges.

Many folks, including me, have two sets of dies for the progressive press, one for 38 Special and the other for 357 Magnum.

Keep a watch of the used stuff outlets, you may find some one selling a slightly used set of 38 Special.357 Magnum dies for a song that you could use for the second set.

On the progressive, I have started crimping 38 Special and 357 magnum in a fourth step. I got a Redding profile crimp die for one and I use an extra seater die I had with the seater stem removed for the other. Lots of folks do crimp at the same time as seating.

Hope this helps.

 

[Blue68f100]

I like the Hornady set for my LNL. Hornady dies have the large radius like the Dillon's so there design to work well on AP. Set the seater/crimp did for 38spl than add the 0.135" spacer when you load 357. Or just get a separate seater die. Of course if you use a different bullet you may need to adj the seating depth.

If I'm doing a TC it will be in another station, separate die.

 

[Vodoun da Vinci]

As already said, you can do both .357 and .38 with the same die set but you'll have to reset the seating and expanding operations. I have always done my .38's with crimping when they are seated and never had issues if I followed the proper setup. .38 is a lot easier to get right for me than the autoloader cartridges.

I love making .38 Special pet loads...working on one right now for my Wife's new Ruger LCR.

VooDoo

 

[Jesse Heywood]

If you're wanting an extra crimp die, look for an older set with the steel sizer. Few want them, so the price can be reasonable.

For dies, I have never used a progressive. What I can recommend is that if you're loading lead bullets, get the RCBS Cowboy die set.

 

[cfullgraf]

Oh, yes, my favorite dies are Redding with RCBS second if I cannot find Redding.

But any of the major manufacturers will serve you well.

 

[1KPerDay]

I have the Lee 4-die that specifically says it works for both .357 and .38. Not sure if there is actually any difference between those and the .38 special set other than the stampings on the dies.

I drove the sizing ring out of my FCD and just use it as a separate seating die. I can't prove it but at the time I was feeling like the FCD was giving me trouble with lead pills.

 

[BYJO4]

For revolver cartridges, I use a roll crimp and will seat and crimp at the same time using the one die. I would definitely buy dies with a carbide sizer. I think we all have our favorite brand dies which in my case are RCBS and Hornady.

 

[Vol46]

.38 special & .357 are pretty easy calibers to load. Crimp, length, etc. is not so critical in revolvers, & I seat and crimp in the same step. You can set your seater die up to give a pretty good roll crimp by eyeballing the crimp as you adjust the height of the die. I use Lee carbide dies for those calibers,- pretty inexpensive, so I have two sets that I can keep set up. That way, I do not have to adjust when switching from .38 to .357. I don't seem to have the sticking problem you describe.
Most of the dies for my long guns are Forster - they give very consistent reloads, but for handgun ammo, I am less compulsive and the Lee seems to work just fine.

 

[Walkalong]

Buy some RCBS, Redding, Dillon, or Lyman dies and they will work well for you. If you really want to crimp in a second step, get a crimp only die, no matter which brand die set you pick. I have a taper crimp and roll crimp die for both .38 and .357. Makes things easier. Hard to beat Redding for crimp only dies, but the less expensive Lee ones work fine, although they may need polishing to keep the brass from doing that little jerk when being pulled back out.

 

[Katitmail]

Walkalong,

Dillon carbide dies (3 die set) already have it separate. Size, seat, crimp. No need to buy additional die.

With LEE dies I have I did polishing because throat(?) had some marks from a tool which shaved brass. For MAK LEE die I had to polish roll-crimp place inside so it doesn't shave brass as much.

But jerk happens when round taken out of FC die. I think it's that carbide sizing ring inside.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

If you are interested I have a Lee 3 pc 38/357 die set...pretty sure its carbide. I bought my Lee Pro 1000 second hand (hadn't been used but was bought with that die set). Make me a reasonable offer and they are yours.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Midway USA has Lee Carbide 3 die sets on sale right now for $28.29 which is a very good price.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/418312/lee-carbide-3-die-set-38-special-357-magnum

About 6 of the other common handgun dies plus the 30 Carbine are also on sale.

 

[earplug]

jackets or lead bullets, type of bullets?

LEE dies works better for my cast bullets made with LEE molds.
If you buy jacketed bullets and have matched brass cases most any die set will work.
Deep seating 148 grain wad cutter bullets in mixed cases will cause difficult chambering due to varying case thickness. The cartridge web may be thicker on various brands. I know PMC is thicker then others.
The LEE sizing/crimping die solves this problem.

 

[Walkalong]

I think it's that carbide sizing ring inside.

No doubt, and not a good sign, as it means it's tight.

 

[1KPerDay]

Not necessarily, IMO. Mine does the little bump/jerk on most calibers with most bullets. It seems to be just as the ram begins to lower, which to me indicates that it's from friction at the top where the crimp is, rather than as the bullet goes through the sizing ring as it exits. I wouldn't worry about it, personally. Unless it's occurring as the BULLET is going through the sizing ring.

 

[Katitmail]

I think it happens because after bullet seated case just slightly get's expanded back. Thats a point of this ring, to make sure that ready round is uniform.

But this jerk is just an annoyance plus potential for powder spillage on open cartridge, also I think it results in more uniform ammo.

 

[1KPerDay]

Again, pay close attention to where in the stroke it happens. I bet you a nickel it's juuuust as the ram begins to lower/disengage from the crimp portion of the die, not as the bullet goes through the sizing ring as the round exits the die.

If it's the latter, you may want to drive out the sizing ring or simply not use the FCD, at least for lead .357/.38 rounds.

 

[Katitmail]

Actually, on 45 it happeninh twice. First when crimp exits and I'm not sure if bottom of case sticks to ring or it's a crimp side. I think it's a bottom of case against ring.

Second time it happens when top of the bullet goes through the ring.

Hard to explain, but on downstroke it's like ding..ding.

 

[billybob44]

Your Money--Your Time...

I do the same as you but on a Dillon 550.
I have a Dillon die block set up for the .38 Spl. AND a block set up for the .357 Mag. I have Dillon new style (Hair Pin) dies in each block.
My only change over is if I am loading 148gr. WC in .38 Spl., I install a Redding Taper Crimp die. I like the TC profile on my Wad Cutter target loads.

I am also set up the same as ^^ for my .40 S&W/10MM rounds..Bill.

 

[1KPerDay]

Cool. If the rounds are accurate and you don't get leading, ignore it, IMO. Or simply get a separate crimping die if you want to crimp and seat separately.