38 special

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S Jack

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Ahoy fellas..1st time posting and 1st time reloader..ive been reading many of the threads here and find them very helpful..should have read more info before i reloaded 3 boxes of 38 special that may be under charged

I set out to load light starter plinking loads for my sw mod 27 4"barrel

HSM 125gn lead semi WC
4.0 to 4.1 gn unique powder

I used the lee .5cc dipper instead of the scale thinking i was charging 4.6gn

Is 4.0 to light to fire safely or should i start over?many thx in advance for all opinions and advise
S JACK
 
That's about a grain lower than I would use.
You can try shooting them one at time, checking each time to be sure that the bullet has left the barrel.
 
I would load that at 5.1 grains of Unique. 5.1 is still a pretty light load and you do want to make sure they clear the barrel.

Since you have them loaded you can fire one and make sure it exits the barrel before continuing on. If you don't have too many loaded I might just break them down and up the powder charge.
 
That was actually the target load I used to load for my mom's 3" J-frame... 4.0grn Unique under a 158grn swaged SWC. Light recoil (for mom's arthritic hands) and quite accurate... she could outshoot me with 'her' little J-frame.

EDIT: Correction... it was 4.2grn Unique.
 
That was actually the target load I used to load for my mom's 3" J-frame... 4.0grn Unique under a 158grn swaged SWC. Light recoil (for mom's arthritic hands) and quite accurate... she could outshoot me with 'her' little J-frame.

EDIT: Correction... it was 4.2grn Unique.
158 grain vs 125 grain make quite a bit of difference. 5.1 grains is a minimum load with a 125 grain bullet, 3.3 grain is a minimum load with the 158 grain SWC bullet.
 
I used the lee .5cc dipper instead of the scale thinking i was charging 4.6gn
Far from ideal, but should work. Do some reading and use your scale.

Yep, you simply cannot trust bushing charge weight charts, you must verify with your scale before charging cases. How did you figure out you had used 4.0 instead of 4.6? Did you check the weight after loading the rounds? I am guessing yes, that you have learned from that mistake, and don't really need us to tell you it needs to be before and not after.

Welcome to THR. :)
 
I used the lee .5cc dipper instead of the scale thinking i was charging 4.6gn
Yeah S Jack, be real careful about using that slide chart that comes with those Lee Powder Dipper sets. I have two of those sets, and I like them - used them for charging quite a variety of cases over the past 35 years or so of handloading. But I've learned to live with their shortfalls. Most of the time, I've found that in order to dip the amount of powder that's listed on the slide chart for a particular sized dipper, I have to heap the powder in the dipper, as well as have some powder sitting on the handle.
Actually, that's why I have 2 sets of Lee Powder Dippers. My first set, the red set, I bought over 30 years ago. My yellow set is only 12 or 15 years old, and I've taken my pocket knife to some of the dippers and trimmed them down until they held the right amount of powder for some of my favorite loads. Then I wrote over the charge weights listed on the slide chart.
I've also made powder dippers by soldering handles on cartridge cases. But that's a lot more work than just buying a relatively inexpensive set of Lee Powder Dippers, and just trimming them down to hold your favorite charges of powder.:)
 
Many thx fellas for the good advise..i think ill break em down and learn to do it right this time...is there any reading you guys recomend for the rookies..

Also any data books for sw32..32 hr mag..
And a cowboy 45 colt
Again thx
 
I would HIGHLY recommend the 2nd Edition of Lee's Loading book. Tells you everything you need to know about loading and data for virtually all calibers too.
 
I'd be a little nervous I've ran across a few nice used revolvers in pawn shops with bulged barrels.
 
The Lyman manual (50th Edition) shows a starting load of 4.0 grains of Unique with their 120 grain bullet (1.450" OAL) in the 38 Special, for a velocity of 725 fps from a 4" barrel.

You should be okay with that load, according to Lyman.
 
Many thx fellas for the good advise..i think ill break em down and learn to do it right this time...is there any reading you guys recomend for the rookies..

Also any data books for sw32..32 hr mag..
And a cowboy 45 colt
Again thx
Of course the various load books have it, but these days there is a lot of good data available online from the powder makers.

A good reloading book is an invaluable tool. The Lyman 49 is always highly recommended. I like my Speer manual best. They are all just fine though.

http://www.accuratepowder.com/load-data/

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/default.aspx

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/

http://www.vihtavuori.com/en/reloading-data/about-reloading.html
 
158 grain vs 125 grain make quite a bit of difference. 5.1 grains is a minimum load with a 125 grain bullet, 3.3 grain is a minimum load with the 158 grain SWC bullet.

For JACKETED bullets, yes, for cast, no. Reference the Hornady #7; they don't have a 125 cast, but a 140grn cast load.
 
Welcome to the wonderful, oft frustrating and confusing world of reloading! I don't have a manual in front of me right now and refuse to commit any load data to memory, but how much is the starting charge for that bullet and powder in your reloading manual? The load you quoted is pretty light so make sure each bullet makes it outta the barrel. Dippers are fine, but your dipping method can vary as much as a full grain. If you plan on reloading any more I'd suggest you check your charges with a scale (buy, borrow one. A Lee scale is very accurate and repeatable for around $30).
 
Light loads with powder will likely make it out of the barrel every time.
If you verify the bullet exits EVERY time you should be good to go. Enjoy your plinking loads—CAREFULLY.

Use your dippers with a scale. Never trust dippers alone.
 
S Jack wrote:
...is there any reading you guys recomend for the rookies..

Any of the published reloading manuals put out by the equipment makers (Lee, Lyman) or the bullet makers (Sierra, Speer, Hornady) will have a detailed section at the front on "How to Reload". In the Hornady manual 9th edition which I keep on my desk, it begins on page 45 and goes through page 81, so it's not long or hard to get through.

Read it, study it. And then do it a second time. Seriously.

Pore over every page like you were going to be tested.

Because you will be - when you reload.

I also strongly recommend that once you have gone through the "How to Reload" section of the manual, that you stop and prepare a written set of set-by-step procedures for how you are going to apply what you have read to the equipment and components you have. Make a copy (or print out a fresh one) and use it as a checklist every time you go to the bench so that you know what you have done and don't forget anything. This can be particularly valuable if you get interrupted while reloading and have to go back and try to figure out what you did and didn't do before the interruption. My checklist has saved my life (literally) more than once and the only times I have gotten into trouble has been in my early years when I thought checklists were for "bean counters" and I didn't use one.

Good luck.
 
I'd be pretty surprised if any of these failed to shoot from a 4" barrel ASSUMING YOU PUT POWDER IN EVERY CASE. You could always say that, but for a first time reloader, I'll ask whether you double-checked powder before seating bullets into the cases?

With four grains of powder and an electronic scale, you could weigh every round and be *pretty* sure they had powder, although four grains is about the lightest I'd believe that. I've gone through and weighed every round in a box where I wasn't *absolutely* certain that I'd checked each and every case twice for powder with my little flashlight before I went and fetched the bullets to the bench. I'd probably set aside and pull any that were more than about 1.5 grains below the average. If using mixed headstamp brass, you would need to first sort them all by headstamp and just compare to the average for that headstamp, since brass weight between brands will vary.

If they all do really have 4.0 +/- 0.2 grains of powder, I'd shoot them in slow fire at a distance that you can reliably see the holes and be SURE you stop and see a new hole with every shot. Seven yards would be safe unless you have terrible vision. If at a range where you only get to go out every 30 minutes to change targets, put up little aiming points every 6" to 8" on your fresh target backer or staple up fresh 8 x 11 sheets of paper every ceasefire and only shoot one cylinder at each. Unless you ONLY like to shoot rapid DA fire, this would be way more fun than pulling all the bullets and starting over, and it's a good opportunity to shoot a lot of careful groups.

If I'd weighed them all and then got through the first box or two with no squibs, I'd probably relax and shoot the rest without being so cautious, but that's just me. I'm not saying it's a good idea.
 
"...the Lee .5cc dipper..." Those daft things can vary the powder charge plus or minus a full grain. No CC's, that is a metric unit of liquid volume, in reloading either.
5.1 grains of Unique is the start load for a jacketed 125. 4.0 is way too low. Even Alliant's 125 grain Cowboy cast loads start at 5.4 of Unique(Max is 6.)
Do not use jacketed data for a cast bullet. Not seeing cast data for Unique and I'm not at home to look in my Lyman book.
"...Lee's Loading book..." Lee does no testing of any kind themselves. The data they publish is from the powder maker. Alliant for Unique.
 
Welcome.

► Reloaders are generally very helpful and generous people. If you had your location loaded into your profile, then you just might get someone to drop by and help you through this in person.

► Remember the load is always detailed by weight. When you use scoops, you are measuring by volume. The weight inside the scoop may change depending upon how the scoop attacks the powder. So the best way to do this is to pour 10 scoops into your scale pan. If you are looking for an average load of 4.6gr, then 10 scoops should weigh something very close to 46.0gr.

Hope this helps.
 
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